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paulzy123

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Everything posted by paulzy123

  1. paulzy123
    I was pretty gutted to hear this, what an ambassador and true balls out driver she was, did you see the Ford transit challenge on the ring when she was overtaking motorbikes... phenomenal... 🔥
  2. paulzy123
    Hi, after going to the drags again and still failing to get into the 13’s I think my next step is to get hold of a high stall TC. If anyone has one for sale that stalls up around 2800/3000 or anything more than the standard TC then I’m interested. Car is an R33 Gtst spec 2. Cheers Paul
  3. paulzy123
    R33 gtst spec 2 automatic. Ran 14.02 @ 107mph last weekend on a new map with higher boost. emanage ultimate hybrid turbo 440cc injectors big Intercooler z32 maf 3” exhaust all the way through no nos 225/55/16 on the rears, pineapples fitted. Can’t seem to crack into 13’s I think a high stall tc is in order, launching around 2k isn’t cutting it..
  4. paulzy123
    Cheers, hopefully I can enjoy it now for a couple of years till I get used to the power. ?
  5. paulzy123
    Hi, The problem is fixed, I took it to a mate of mine that mapped his own car on the Emanage ultimate. He spent a good long time looking at the wiring. The injector earth wire had a dry joint in the pin in the loom connector and eventually snapped when we went to road map it so that got a new soldered lug. The lambda sensor was goosed so that got replaced. The SAFC 2 I was using to monitor knock still had a map on it and was wired in series with the Emanage wiring which was causing issues so the AFM side of it got removed, the AFM (z32) was spiking at 3.8 volts then dropping to 2.8volts straight after which was also causing problems so he “clamped the voltage?” Apparently it’s not to be used as a permanent fix it’s till I buy another AFM. We spent a couple of hours driving around and doing pulls while he sat on an ancient laptop typing and clicking away saying, “try that” and “do that again” until he turned to me and said right let’s turn the boost up. At 18 psi it felt immense and it really was quick enough but he said I could go more so I did but in the end I settled at 19psi as upping it more didn’t seem to feel any quicker. All in all I was on the road around four hours and in his garage at least a day ? Its quite quick now, well for an auto. Well, that concludes my thread, thanks for all your advice and help ? Cheers Paul
  6. paulzy123
    Quick update.. So the car go’s to a show this weekend and I know driving without a decent map could be engine suicide but I’ve had the fuel curve looked at and have been assured that’s it’s safe and there’s so much timing pulled out of it that it won’t det so I’ll trundle down to the show. Took it out this saterday just gone to make sure everything is just so and ended up forgetting that it shouldn’t be thrashed until it’s been looked at properly and gave it the full biscuit... to my surprise it took off like hell in the night, it felt like it did previously, like before I lost the 58hp the only thing I’ve done recently is stop the re circ from the cam covers to the intake and blank off the lines from the plenum to carbon canister (now gone). I’m not complaining but I’d like to know what the hell is going on still, maybe the maf needs a clean? It is third hand so I may try that.... I’m getting it totally looked at early next month, the entire shooting match mechanically and ECU side by somebody that is very familiar with the emu and can spanner as well.... Will report back...
  7. paulzy123
    So I got a pal of mine who’s mapped a few Emanage ultimates to plug his lap top into the Emanage to see if there was anything untoward or just to look at the map (it’s just numbers to me) . I was a bit out off at the shock he was in as he said that it was retarded across the entire rev range, also, the afm was selected as a standard afm and not as a z32 one which I have, the injectors were also standard when they should have been selected as 440cc. We took it out with his wide band stuffed up the exhaust ? He said it was really rich, we got back to mine and he tested the lambda sensor, it was “flatlined” so that needs replacing. The only thing that I can confirm is that the brown plug behind the drivers headlight does not lock the timing at 15 degrees when it’s unplugged but does lock the auto box in third as I asked him to measure it. So that is good for mapping on the dyno I guess. So, I’m going to get a new sensor and ask him to have a crack at mapping it. Or at least ask him to take another look. Will report back... ? Just for reference its this brown plug ?
  8. paulzy123
    Hi, would you ship the air purifier to the UK if you still have it? Cheers Paul
  9. paulzy123
    You’re right, the turbo did sound whistley on the drive up to the mapper and doesn’t sound half as bad now. The turbo did over come the leak but at the cost of working harder. Surely it would have build boost differently to if the gasket wasn’t leaking? That’s the best thing about analogue gauges as you can observe fluctuations and trends, digital doesn’t really let you see that unless you are logging...
  10. paulzy123
    Really? It was a pretty disgusting sized leak that showed up on the boost leak test... I’ll try n post the vid up...
  11. paulzy123
    Hi guys, Firstly, I hope this in the right section and sorry if it’s not.. I’m a bit of a optional extra/rare part conisure for my r33 Gtst auto. I’ve collected a few bits for her now and have just got my hands on some wing mirror eyebrows, the wing mirrors they are still attached to came from a dark coloured skyline as the wing mirrors are what looks like metallic charcoal but the eyelids are darker and almost look black. Were these eyebrows colour coded or were they all black?? Havent much hope anyone will know this but need to ask all the same... Cheers ?
  12. paulzy123
    I want a boost gauge as that would have shown my inlet mani gasket had gone a while back, I also want to watch gearbox oil temp so thinking of getting both as greddy gauges in a pillar pod. I have another sensor in front of the throttle body wired back to a digital meter that’s sat snug in the front of the ash tray which shows inlet temps off boost in summer sits around 20 -25 degrees and at wot it can shoot up but never on the loud pedal long enough for it to show above 40/45 really.. I'm thinking afr would be a good one also but never really needed until this type of thing popped up or if I was trying to map my Emanage myself... Happy Christmas everyone by the way. ?
  13. paulzy123
    Doh!! Yup you are absolutely right, I often see egt gauges for sale and think will their function ever really be needed as if your engine is good then it’s good but in this situation it would be a bloody useful reference... I just don’t want to have a multitude of gauges as I personally think it can get a bit much...
  14. paulzy123
    Will crack on with some testing ? Never overheats to my knowledge obviously going by the stock temphreture gauge though.. Still on a standard recirc but I have an genuine adjustable greddy one that I can fit if it’s that. All hoses from what I can tell are in good nic .... I’m not there when it’s being mapped ever but last reports were that turning the boost up and advancing the ignition made no difference. I’m fairly confident the brown plug locked the timing at 15 degrees but will need to confirm this... Cheers
  15. paulzy123
    Well the car drives fine just low on power, Did a compression test 1-167psi 2-165psi 3-153psi 4-153psi 5-162psi 6-167psi Taking into account I have a 1.1mm head gasket then the compression test looks ok to me. So the quest continues to find where my 58hp has gone....
  16. paulzy123
    The car was mapped with the brown plug behind the headlight removed to lock it into third. Does this also lock the timing does anybody know? I’ve had conflicting reports. Just got home from work so will take the car out with the brown plug back in and see how it performs as although cold it’s dry. Scared what I might find Saturday with a compression test if I’m honest ...
  17. paulzy123
    So the brown plug was unplugged still as suspected, I got it plugged back in and it sorted it... Couldn’t do the tests on the car in the end as my mates laptop was playing up, looking like next weekend now.
  18. paulzy123
    Ok cool, well that’s something I need to get sorted and will do but will go the blitz return flow route as don’t want to cut anything ? Right now I’ve got bigger problems as I just picked the car up and it’s locked in third, I told him about the brown plug behind the headlight that if you disconnect it the car locks into third so he could dyno it but its still in third now ? Will have a good look at it tomorrow as it pouring with rain, dark and about 2 degrees outside - typical English weather..... Thanks for the responses guys ? Think I'm going to get it unlocked from third first thing. I’m just hoping the brown plug is discconnected as if it’s not then it’s locked in third permanent ?
  19. paulzy123
    Will do!!! A side mount is where I want to stay ( I spent nearly a year reading up on air flow..) , I read up that a standard Toyota supra would flow at least 400... they have just released a side mount that will meet 500 so I wil get one if things are hindered .. It’s going to have a compression test I the morning . Cheers Bob speak shortly ?
  20. paulzy123
    Hi, So I paid up today and got my keys back, collecting tomorrow, afr’s are the same as last December as is the way it builds boost. He said he is stumped ...and the thing is I know the guy isn’t a bulls**ter. Also said compression “feels good” hmmmm .. I do really respect the guy and he is probably one of the best (if not the best) mappers for rb’s in the uk. I want to protect his anonymity because he is good and people always judge but I’m a little lost with it. I’ve compared graphs from last year and now, the car has done 900 miles approx since last December but I got the sheets back and they are showing 290 hp at the fly, last year showed 348 hp. I have a walbro 255lph pump so should be fine and not running out of puff.. I really want to go rb25/30 but Rb 30’s over here are like hens teeth..no.. hens wisdom teeth.. Im going to do a compression test and see where things are on that front. Pressure drop across the Intercooler? It’s a side mount (big Toyota supra one as don’t want to cut the bumper around and will support 450 apparently) but old, maybe it could have degraded since last year but I doubt it... So, I pick it up tomorrow ... Thanks for getting back to me. Anything else it could be? Cheers Paul
  21. paulzy123
    Welcome Andy mate, it’s paulzy ? That rad caps still going strong, wish I could say the same for the car!! Good to see you on here ?
  22. paulzy123
    Hi, The at the fly wheel figures are calculated based on a wheel figure that the dyno measures then is worked back back using a figure to compensate for transmission losses. You don’t really see many dyno graphs showing wheel horsepower over here which is annoying as crank horse power is calculated, having a transmission that’s auto also increases the losses to the wheels over a manual so it’s even more out. the afr’s are ok, I’m not there when it’s being looked at and dyno’d but when it was set up a year ago apparently the afr’s were “super safe” I could post a sheet showing the at the fly wheel and afr’s from the mapping that was done a year ago I’d that helps? The guy pressure tests both before and after the Intercooler. It’s a hybrid turbo built by a very well known company in England. The guy who maps it is a well known guy on the Nissan sr 20 and rb scene and has been established over 15 years with a good rep, expensive but good. its a 3” straight through system, the manifold is a 3mm steam pipe low mount, weighs a ton cost £400. Today I got a message saying that it won’t make any more power with more boost or timing and made 290hp (fly wheel) @.95 bar. I’m guessing either turbo or compression. It did have s boost leak for a while, could this have made the turbo over work to create the target boost to the point it’s damaged the turbo?
  23. paulzy123
    Hi everyone, Firstly, what a great forum this is, it’s the fountain of knowledge for everything skyline related, it’s taken years to build this up and is the best forum for skylines out there, it has helped me loads, thank you. So I’ve been frequenting this forum on off for a while now, trying to get the information I need to achieve decent figures in my auto. After sorting the gearbox (401) with an additional bigger cooler (28 row mocal) and an MV auto’s stage 2 shift kit I then fitted a hybrid turbo, 440cc injectors and Emanage ultimate, bigger inter cooler and free flowing exhaust and exhaust manifold, 1.1mm steel head gasket and ARP head bolts. New water and oil pump. Off it went to be mapped, it returned with a nice 348 at the fly wheel figure at .85 bar. I think this equates to around 200rwkw depending in what fudge factor is being used? I could well be wrong, it wouldn’t be the first time... I’ve read lots of posts on here probably the automatic performance thread back to front at least 5 times but I still forget stuff. The car went off to be mapped again last week as I really want that 400 at the fly figure which I’m guessing is around the 250-260rwkw mark. After they found and fixed my very leaky rubber inlet manifold gasket they got her on the dyno. I got a message asking what I have changed on the car since it was last mapped as it’s only making 300 at the fly now and turning the boost up makes no difference. My mapper said it is like an exhaust restriction and asked if I have a cat but I haven’t, it straight through. The car has barely done 1k miles since it was mapped at this time last year so I’m a little stumped.? It has a standard bov, and a gizmo boost controller, they have leak tested it and there are no boost leaks. I’m also told the injectors are not maxing out and that turning the boost up isn’t making any difference. I’ve asked for him to look up the exhaust tomorrow to see if anything is up there that shouldn’t be, failing that???? It’s a rebuilt hybrid that went in when it was mapped last year. I only ever drive it gently all the way to the drag strip and then home again, maybe I’ll take it out and cruise around once in a blue moon but I never go flat out other than half a dozen times at the strip. The air filter has been checked and is fine also. Some of you guys will know this one even though what I’ve just written in my mind doesn’t compute. Any help or advice on this would be greatly appreciated as I’m not going manual even though I get a fair bit of flack for being auto. Thanks in advance Paul
  24. paulzy123
    Slight miscalculation with funds till payday .. DOH! Good luck with the sale mate ?
  25. paulzy123
    Would you split as only interested in the yellow lighter? Cheers Paul
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