BOZ22N

And BTW no trailer car allowed.

Sweet thanks Duncan i am just going to pull the whole system out and see what happens. Also my new Stack Dash showed up today woohoo.

Well it has been way way too long between posts but i have got a little more progress. The new sump and pick up is modified and fitted, the new balancer is fitted and the fitting is in the back of the head and i have made and fitted the head to sump breather line. All that is left to do is tap out the rear of the coolant rail on the drivers side to take a 1/4 BSPT fitting so i can change the hose fitting to a dash 6 AN one, then is it ready to fit. The engine bay has had a little clean up and all three harnesses are fitted, the fuse box has been re fitted and also the power steer lines and bottle. So there is not much more to do then the engine can be re fitted. So fingers crossed next weekend all the engine and drive train will be back in the car. I have laid out the last two remaining harnesses tried to part out the bits that i will remove, I want to remove all the wires for the Hicas including the control module and the sensor in the steering wheel. I have also purchased a Stack dash so the majority of its wires will be removed also. Does anyone know if i will get heavy steering if i remove the whole system? I have heard that this happens if you remove the module on its own. If so can i put a resistor inline to trick the car into thinking that the Hicas control module is still active? Cheers, Ryan

Well it has been way way too long between posts but i have got a little more progress. The new sump and pick up is modified and fitted, the new balancer is fitted and the fitting is in the back of the head and i have made and fitted the head to sump breather line. All that is left to do is tap out the rear of the coolant rail on the drivers side to take a 1/4 BSPT fitting so i can change the hose fitting to a dash 6 AN one, then is it ready to fit. The engine bay has had a little clean up and all three harnesses are fitted, the fuse box has been re fitted and also the power steer lines and bottle. So there is not much more to do then the engine can be re fitted. So fingers crossed next weekend all the engine and drive train will be back in the car. I have laid out the last two remaining harnesses tried to part out the bits that i will remove, I want to remove all the wires for the Hicas including the control module and the sensor in the steering wheel. I have also purchased a Stack dash so the majority of its wires will be removed also. Does anyone know if i will get heavy steering if i remove the whole system? I have heard that this happens if you remove the module on its own. If so can i put a resistor inline to trick the car into thinking that the Hicas control module is still active? Cheers, Ryan

Nice huffers What type of front guards are they?

BUMP

Final offer $200.00

Noddy did you run the coolant lines on the old turbo like that? I thought those two spots were the same gallery?

Very nice Damo, i love the dash and i am very keen to see how the rear cradle turns out.

BUMP $250.00

BUMP

They are for drag cars bud, and i have heard of them freezing throttle bodies open. Just use the old air to air front mount, cheap and easy.

You might have to log it as a sports sedan?

Huddy Follow the below link and click on the safety cage registration form on the bottom right. As far as i am aware you fill out this form and send it along with your log book paperwork and they will process it. CAMS cage link Good luck.

As the title states i have four new Siemens 575cc hi impedance injectors up for sale. They were ordered for a another car and only one has been removed from the packet for trial fitting purposes but we found out that they would not fit this application. These have never been used and are in new condition, they have 14mm o-rings top and bottom. The part number and specs are as below. I am not sure what model of car they would be a direct fit for. Siemens 3172 55# 575cc/min High resistance: 13.0 Ohms They are located near Newcastle and i am happy to help with postage if you like. PM me for contact details. Price: $300.00 ono for all four. Cheers, Ryan

Thats in November isnt it? Why so long?

Nice work, looks like yours will be back on the track before mine. i have given myself a dead line of the 16th of May. What ya doing to the wiring?

He He He

Got any pics Ben? i have been looking for a coupe for a while and have had no such luck and you have two, luck man.

I would probably run more camber on the front and Toe the rear out 1 to help under brakes. But what you have would be a good start and come in after a session and measure the temps across your tyres and look for any weird wear marks, then just adjust it so you like the feel of it. Edit: I just read your sig a 1:05 at wakie and you are asking us for ideas, your way ahead mate good luck.

Good to see you got it back all finished. Did you get it inspected before you picked it up? Did you get your cage paperwork for your log book? Looks good.

Get a GTST, wooohooo.

Dave i had the same problem in my R33. I had to ditch the expensive jap steering boss and make my own which allowed the nut to recess into the D1 quick release. I will put up photos in my build thread soon. In the end when you sat a std wheel face down and my rpm wheel with the bosses attached the rpm one was only 10 mm higher.

0.78 twin scroll sounds a treat, that might help the old girl breath up top but not sacrifice too much down low. Who did you purchase that turbine hsg through Dane? Sorry to Hi Jack ya thread Noddy.

R33 GTST's have RB25DET boxes in them from the factory Ben Try some light weight redline shock proof oil and ease up on the old girl and it might see you out. Other wise get it rebuilt not just repaired, next thing you know you will be crunching 5th ad it will blow. Do it right and do it once. Good luck.