ggub

Wherever you ask them to. I had one added to the crossover pipe near the BOV as well as the hot and cold sides of the intercooler piping to provide greatest flexibility in measuring temperatures post-turbo. I have the IAT installed in one, and bungs in the other two.

It's not as thick as you think. I drilled and tapped mine for the IAT that came with my Haltech PnP kit but ended up ditching it and getting Plazmaman plumbing with a dedicated bung welded on. The pitch on the M14 x 1.5 sensor left very little thread engagement.

It is possible to connect to that hose without removing the valve cover or inlet plenum, but it is tricky. I have the water line I made for my ATR43 hooked up there. You might find that the old hose is perished and gets damaged during install, so it may be prudent to get a replacement before you fiddle with it. I cut out the 90 degree portion of a universal z hose (Gates part number 01-0002) to replace mine.

For the sake of cost comparison, I’m currently embarking on putting a new 5 speed into my R33. I imported a new RB25DET gearbox from Japan, which was about AU$3.3k delivered to my door. It was a very slow process (~2 months) and I got extremely lucky with the exchange rate. The twin plate clutch I bought was about AU$1.8k. I've also had to buy all the additional parts required to convert the gearbox from a pull type clutch to a push type clutch. Total cost is about AU$5.5k, so GTSBoy is pretty close to the money.

I'm currently going the path of replacing my R33 gearbox with a new R34 unit, and believe these are the parts you need: Item Details Gearbox 32010-AA520 Gearbox Front Cover Assembly (Including Input Shaft Seal, pivot ball) 32110-05U11 Gearbox Front Cover Gasket 32112-05U12 Clutch Release Bearing 30502-69F1A Clutch Release Bearing Carrier 30501-S0284 Clutch Fork (Including Clip) 30531-P0151 Clutch Release Bearing Carrier Clip 30514-14600 Clutch Fork Dust Boot 30542-69F00 Slave cylinder 30620-21U23 BYO push type clutch, tap the gearbox as described above, and change everything out. I've yet to go through the process though, so can't confirm that the information above is 100% correct. Make sure you do your own research to confirm the part numbers.

Turbine A/R is calculated using the inlet area, not the exducer area. So the A/R remains the same when high flowing.

I've recently removed mine. As mentioned if you can twist them to get them moving they come out pretty easy after that. If you're having trouble, stick something like a screwdriver or socket extension through the hole to use as a moment arm to get them spinning around. Also as mentioned, many companies make press-in adapter fittings like so: https://raceworks.com.au/fittings/adapters/an-rocker-cover-breather-adapters/

In case someone comes across this thread in the future looking for the same/similar info: Raceworks part number RWF-809-02SS is too long and you can't connect the factory loom back onto the factory sensor.

True. You are right that I'd take it easy until things are warm regardless of whether I retain the heater. In my searching through the forums prior to starting this thread I feel like I saw someone say that they had experienced much longer warm up times after the deletion of their heater but I can't seem to find it again. Either way I suppose that's only one anecdotal account. I too like the idea of the relocator kit, especially since the factory location is a bit messy during oil changes. I much prefer cars doin them on cars with upside down filters that have no other bits between the filter and the ground. As I said, the only thing that concerns me is whether the heater delete is a worthy trade-off. Good point regarding clearance around the filter with the addition of a sandwich plate. I hadn't considered that. For context, my primary aim is to measure oil pressure for the purposes of engine protection. I just figured that it was probably worth chucking in oil temperature if I'm going to the effort of adding a bunch of other sensors to the engine when I install my Haltech.

I had actually been considering that relocation kit but wasn't sure if it was adding unnecessary complication and cost since I didn't have any plans to install an oil cooler. It's also my understanding that this would delete the oil warmer, which seems like a good thing to retain for getting things up to temperature as quickly as possible (Canberra winter mornings are cold!). The warmer setup looks to be the same on the RB25 but I can't tell from the outside whether the filter or the warmer is getting oil first. If this diagram is to be believed, the warmer is getting flow first (on the RB26 at least):

Admittedly I'm not that familiar with the how the factory system works. Is the filter before or after the interwarmer? Is this sort of thing suitable? https://www.mishimoto.com.au/oil-plate-sandwich-adapter.html

I was wondering about whether a T piece would have sufficient circulation for reading temperature accurately. With that in mind, would a sandwich plate be preferable for measuring temperature, or should the sensor be located elsewhere on the block because of the cooler/heat exchanger thing?

Dope. Thanks for you responses everyone.

Cheers. Is this the sort of thing we're talking?

Sweet, seems like remote mount shouldn't be necessary then and T-piece seems like it would probably be the easiest. If I go that route, a quick google says the thread is 1/8 BSP. Is that correct?

This is exactly what came to mind when I first saw the suggestion of remote mounting on parts suppliers' websites. I asked Haltech support and they said vibration can damage the diaphragm inside the sensor 🤷‍♂️ Part of my motivation for posting was to see if anyone had experienced failures from direct mounting.

Hi everyone, Just wondering what’s the preferred method for installing aftermarket oil pressure and temperature sensors on a stock r33 gtst oil system (ie no aftermarket cooler, no filter relocate, factory coolant/oil heat exchanger is intact). The most straight forward way would seem to be with a sandwich plate between the filter and block, but I’m led to believe that pressure sensors may be prone to failure from vibration when mounted directly to the block. The next simplest looks to be remote mounting sensors with an extension line. In that configuration the oil and, depending on how it’s oriented, air in the line would be static so I assume this won’t work for temperature, but I assume it’s fine for that to be directly into the sandwich plate. For the pressure sensor, does is matter if there’s air between the pressure sensor and the oil? Static pressure is static pressure, but my gut feeling is that direct contact with the oil would be preferable to having something compressible in between. Or perhaps there’s an easier way that I’m missing. Interested to hear people’s thoughts. Cheers

No idea, but I'd be surprised (from a manufacturing cost point of view) if they were different. It might be worth seeing if you can compare part/subassembly numbers on Amayama to see if they differ.

Is this the part you're looking for? https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/6864015u00

R33 gtst - it's on the side of the ABS pump and has three plugs going into it. I don't know what the part number for your car would be - I got mine from Kudos Motorsport.

Replacing the relay fixed my ABS when it stopped working.

With the unit turned off: Pressing A/C button does nothing. Pressing fan button turns on fan, along with A/C if it was on when you turned it off. Pressing mode button powers on the screen and will show you the set temperature and which vents are open, but will not turn on the fan. Pressing demister button turns on the demister with A/C and turns off air recirculate if it was on. Pressing auto button turns on the automatic setting.

Look up your car on Amayama and you should be able to find the part numbers.

Vacuum hose

Also forgot to mention that I can't help with the wheels, sorry.