hey_aleks

Yeah thanks for the advice mate. I've taken off the top cover so it's nothing under that one, so it's something to do with the bottom cover (which I don't think I can take off without removing the timing belt, need to move houses first). Hopefully nothing internal.

Hey guys, so I'm in the middle of moving (can't start taking things apart too much because the car needs to be able to be driven to the new house). I have a consistent light knocking sound coming from the lower timing cover. I thought it was rod knock since the knocking is consistent at idle and increases with rpms. I used a broomstick to determine that the noise was coming from the lower timing belt cover BUT when i pushed on the cover a bit too hard, the noise sort of died down/changed (the noise changes depending on how hard you push on the cover). What do you guys think it could be? This all happened after I boosted the car to 120km/h when it was relativity cold (stupid). I'll work on the car when I'm finished moving but it's killing me not knowing if the engine is f**ked or not. Any help is appreciated.

Why else would it be in my bed m8

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What state are you in mate? They go for 150-200 if not used in SA, you should try fb marketplace.

Bump

Sure did, still hasn't arrived though

Yeah man that's it. If the turbo fails within 12 months you get a free replacement and If it lives for over a year that's money well spent. Also when I received the turbo, it had some sort of clear coat sprayed all over it (including the rear turbine). The car slightly smoked for a few mins from the engine bay and and exhaust until it all burnt off after a quick drive. Before I went for the drive, I messaged the ebay seller about the startup smoke just to see what they would say and here's the response, they'd rather send you a new one for 50 instead of having to return and rebuild it lol.

Feels a few hundred rpms laggier compared to the stock turbo (i'd say similar to a hks 2530 I had on my old car). Did a bit of reading and people who run smaller ebay turbos say that they are quite reliable when not going over 14 psi so I think it's a great alternative to the 25 year old stock ones going around for $150-250. Yeah mate my rev needle goes crazy but I haven't bothered trying to fix it. I've never soldered but I do have a spare cluster with a working tacho so might swap it over to this cluster.

^

Will get a proper photo of the hot side after but it looks stock if you don't know RBs. Used the factory hard lines, had to slightly modify the factory rubber intake since the ebay turbo has a 3" inlet not a 2.25" or whatever it is but it wasn't too hard. Used OEM gaskets of course, toss out the ebay ones. The turbo comes with a restrictor built in so you can just bolt the factory oil feed hard line on.

Also could be a leaky injector.

Just read your response, could possibly fuel pump? It sounds like something small to be honest so maybe take it to a known mechanic/a jdm shop/tuner and have them look at it before you spend any more money. If they quote you a ridiculous price, at least you'll know what your issue is. Just last week my auto 33 turbo was having the same issues without the smoking. I got brand new NGK spark plugs as mentioned above, i taped up all the coilpacks with electrical tape (3 were red Ebay ones and 3 were stock ones, all looked fine to the eye but probably had hairline cracks). The boost was 10, i completely removed the boost tee and ran straight to the actuator to elimate issues with it (some are fakes and some just work shit, just run stock boost until you sort the issue).

Hmm sounds like a fuel issue, maybe put anothe quarter tank of 98 and see how she runs? One of my 33s would start to cut out at around 1/4 tank then not start once it had reached just under a quarter before the low fuel light even went on (probably the owner messing with the fuel gauge needle when changing the cluster bulbs or your fuel filter needs replacing/fuel pump is on the way). Or it could be a vacuum leak since mine blows black smoke and cuts out really bad when one of my intercooler pipes blow. Are you running the stock blow off valve plumbed back? May have issues idling/starting without the stock bov setup if running stock ecu. Also if its mainly happening on wide open throttle, lower your boost to 8 to test if the ecu is going into 'rich and retarded' mode. Also what spark plugs are you running? At 11psi they should be gapped to around 0.8mm (alot of people recommend NGK BCPR6ES plugs). Also look at your coilpacks if they are factory/ebay ones. I had a splutter on 75%+ throttle running 9psi and wrapping my coilpacks with silicone tape fixed it.

Send a pic of your engine bay aswell.

Have you ever started it before? Fresh fuel? Maybe check that the fuel filter feed is the right way around otherwise is does exactly as you described.

Did originally have the bov blocked (for the gobbles) but it was running rich when shifting.

Actually runs pretty sweet, only running 8 psi straight to the internal wastegate that came with it. Was $250 and comes with a year warranty (they say that you need to send the turbo back for inspection/rebuilding if it has issues but if you just complain they send you a free replacement). It sounds so much better than the stock 25det turbo. Heres a vid of a quick pull in my auto:

Need to be more specific.. What mods and how much psi? Auto or manual? Is it smoking? Is it cutting out when you floor it around a corner or when low on fuel?

Hey! Sorry it took so long to reply buddy.... Yeah half a meter is fine for the hose, hopefully it's flexible enough that it doesn't kink when it goes around the engine mount. I can get the exact measurement I used if you want a bit later on? I've recently picked up a greddy style front facing plenum, 3" HKS dump pipe, HKS top mount manifold, high flowed 45v3 turbo and a 3" exhaust so I'll be putting those parts on my de now and getting it tuned! We'll see how the plus t goes with a bit of extra boost

It looks like the bolts are hard to undo but it's not too bad. I think I used a socket for all but one or two, used a spanner for those instead. The hard bit is cracking the bolts then most of them came off by hand, not sure if it's the same for yours but let me know how it goes [emoji106]

Nice buy for $580AUD, I still need to install my 33 gts-t brakes. That's $2500 for a turbo engine in the UK wtf??? We have Facebook groups where people sell import parts, I've seen rb25det motors without Bolt ons for $900 - $1200 and full rb25det engines for $1100 - $1500 with compression tests. Maybe you could look at getting a manual setup shipped to you? I have no idea how much shipping would cost but it might turn out cheaper. You can buy full conversions for around $1300 - $1800 using an r33 gearbox. I can find you parts if you ever decided to, these are AUD prices btw.

I'm pretty sure de boxes have the strength of an rb20 box. I was going to originally put a 20 box in after I turbod mine since people say it should be able to support around 200rwkw if not tracked but picked up a det box for cheap. Youll be able to achieve 200rwkw easily even with stock bits and if you've been driving it n/a, the power difference alone will keep you satisfied for ages.

I did the conversion because I knew my de had genuine kms and being an auto it most likely hasn't seen a hard life and I wanted to get some hands on experience on our engines. After finishing the conversion, I made sure to check the garage floor for leaks before/after going for a drive and went under the car every few drives to check for anything unusual. Ive also never driven the car without having the nistune gauges displayed on my laptop just incase a fault is raised or something looks out. There are a few things to consider before you make your decision. I've done around 6000 kms after completing the conversion. I am an extremely spirited driver so the car is definitely not granny driven. I am fully prepared to have to drop a DET in Incase something fails which is why I try and push the car to see how it handles the conversion. The hardest few days it's seen is when I did 4 hours of constant driving over 2 days in 30° weather. The oil drain from the turbo half popped off because I didn't fully tighten the clamp. Fixed this in 30 mins at home so that would come down to user error. To be honest, selling the car and buying a genuine manual turbo is always the best route. When it comes to resale, people don't want de+ts or manual converted skylines. Dropping in a DET is a good option as well and won't really effect resale as long as all of the Na parts on the car are replaced with gtt parts. The thing about my 34 is that I'm too attached to let it go. Even in Na/Auto form, I was hooked the second I bought it. I'm the first person to hit boost/shred rubber in it which is an awesome feeling. All that aside, reading the workshop manual and modifying the car myself has given me an unbelievable amount of knowledge. I cringe when I think about myself 3 months ago, barely being able to install a boost controller or wire a headunit. I still feel like I dont technically know much but I am now able to diagnose be plenty of issues and replace/upgrade parts on my own.

3/4 bspt like banana I reckon but I'll check in a bit mate