DatsunBanana

Looking good. I see you did use the 33 inlet in the end. Was that so you could get the BOV in easily? So here's pics of adaptors I've bought and my theory behind it is this ... I saw on a few non-Skyline +turbo threads that people use the block coolant drain plug for turbo water feed. E.g. I read about that for a Nissan Patrol. Also from what I've read, this seems to be 1/4" BSPT (tapered) thread on the RB25. It's also just a couple of inches below the place where the DET water feed would be so as the photo shows I've bought an adaptor to use the standard water line (with a bit of careful bending to reach the lower position). Photo shows: 1/4" BSPT to BSPP adaptor. A 1/4" BSPP banjo bolt which is a close but not perfect fit in the 14mm standard water line banjo (I think the copper washers will form the seal OK) and the block coolant drain tapping I hope to use. Just keep in mind that this is theoretical until I actually try it and report back. For the oil drain I've got the two adaptors shown in the pic. One is easy - an off the shelf T3 flange. The other is just a hose tail which I hope is the right thread. I believe the block tapping for the VCT oil drain (same one you're using) is 3/4" BSPT. Again - I won't know until I try it unless anyone can confirm. I've still got quite a few parts to get and on a tight budget so might be a while till I can confirm any of this.

Yeah, you're right about that pic. It must be a generic pic of a smaller adapter. The one that I actually ordered has the same size tail as the drain flange in my other pic. Both have outer diameter of 16mm to fit inside the hose. The narrow point will be at the turbo flange which has an 11mm bore. The hose tail at the block has a similar bore but maybe a fraction bigger. Hope it'll be enough but I'll check it all like you say and keep the hose as vertical as possible.

Thanks, I already took a punt and bought the fitting I think I need for the oil return so it will be interesting to see a photo of what you've got. I measured the plug you're talking about as best I could without undoing it from the block. It's about 1 inch diameter so I reckon it's a 3/4 BSPT thread (same as Japanese JIS) from the info here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe I bought a straight hose tail adapter with a 5/8" outlet to fit a 16mm internal diameter hose like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Male-bspt-Hose-tails-Hosetail-Fitting-Con-1-8-to-2-Water-Gas-Oil-Fuel-/111269900680 I've bought a T3 drain flange also for 16mm ID hose like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbocharger-Oil-Drain-Return-Flange-T3-T34-T35-T04-Garrett-Turbo-RS-Cosworth-/391484877901

The photos are very helpful. Just wondered when you tighten in the t-piece for the oil feed, is it just by chance that the take off is pointing in the right direction? Also it looks like a male end facing toward the camera but I thought it should be female to connect the sender to?

For those thinking about it, mine's had Evans in it for about 4 years now. It's hassle free, no temperature problems. I'm happy with it.

Great write up. Have you got a pic of the dump pipe extension? Not sure the tuners advice is quite right about the ECUs though ... page AT-3 in the R34 service manual says "Vehicle with RB20DE and RB25DET engine has TCM integrated into ECM. Vehicle with RB25DE engine has TCM and ECM separately." I wonder if they were getting mixed up with the RB20? Or maybe they meant that using the DET auto ECU can cause problems which would tie in with what I've been told - that a manual DET ecu is a better choice on an auto DE+t as the separate trans controller will just continue to do it's thing. That made sense to me.

Hi, I'm currently gathering parts to +t my 34 too and planning exactly the same as you for oil feed and drain. I did think about running it with no water and lots of people say it's fine but I got a turbo timer to help prevent the turbo getting too hot after shutdown. I would still like to do water if I can though and tee-ing into heater pipework is an option but I haven't seen any specific details on this either. The science behind it seems to be that the return should be to a higher part of the system than the feed comes from. That way the hot water will naturally rise after the engine shuts off and pull colder water through the turbo. You probably knew/read that elsewhere already. I've got a couple of threads up at the moment with some questions about my other ideas for this - one is about getting the feed from the block water drain that exists on our NEO DE's right next to the blanked off turbo feed. The other is to return coolant to the front end of the inlet manifold as I think this could be done neatly by extending a standard water return pipe. I just don't know what the water channels are like inside there but you might be able to tell if you've got an inlet manifold already off the engine. Hopefully you'll get some definite answers and that might help me too.

+t coolant feed from block drain plug? Although the question seems contradictory, it looks to me that the coolant drain (for emptying the block) is right next to the turbo water feed on DET blocks. See here for example ... So my NEO DE only has the flat in the casting where the turbo feed should be but right next to it I have the coolant drain. I can't find anyone else saying to use this but it seems like it's in a good place for some easy pipework and then return to a higher point. Any thoughts?

Thanks Dan. I'm not sure exactly what you mean about the Auto ECU actually being more trouble than the manual one but no worries - you've still answered my question so that's great. My simple way of thinking about it was that either way, the loom on my DE won't have the transmission related wires going to the relevant pins on the DET Auto ECU so those features won't get activated. And with the manual ECU I figured that as it won't be expecting any auto related wires anyway it will play happily with my loom's connections that all go to the external TCM. I just went back and re-read the +t thread you started back in 2004. Someone said that 'the GTT ECU goes a bit haywire as it understandably cannot detect any boost.' Nothing more was said about it but no-one else seems to have an issue with that so I guess it's not a real problem. The pinouts for the ECU do list pin 47 as turbo pressure signal but is that just for the gauge?

ECU for auto +t I've been looking at getting a NEO DET auto ECU to do a +t. I know there's lots more to it than that, injectors etc. but there's lots of info on that. I'm interested in my ECU options other than just a piggy back. From the service manual the NEO DET ECU will have the auto trans controller in it. My DE has an external trans controller so I guess there'd be some rewiring involved to ignore the external one. But can I widen my options and look at getting a NEO DET ECU from a manual and wire it to use the existing external auto trans ECU that's on my DE already? If this is possible it widens my choice as these ECUs don't come up often and it would mean a manual conversion later would be part way there. Could the chip with the fuel/timing data even be desoldered from a manual DET ecu and put in the auto DE ecu? Thanks.

Hi, I've been reading up on +t conversions here and elsewhere for quite a while now but I've got a question that I haven't had an answer to yet. On a stock DET manifold the turbo coolant returns into a nipple on the back of the inlet manifold. It's at the end of that ridged casting that runs the length of the manifold against the block just above the ports. At the other end of that ridged casting at the front of the engine there's a nipple which runs up to the bleeder. DET NEOs also have a nipple in the middle too I think for a rear bleeder. So ... is that ridged casting a straight through water channel that runs the length of the inlet manifold? My DE NEO doesn't have the rear turbo return nipple but I'm thinking that I could tee the return into that nipple at the front end of the ridged casting. Then I think I can tee the turbo coolant feed from next to the thermostat which is just beneath it. That way I'd have the necessary thermal syphoning. That's the theory anyway - be great if someone knows the answer to that question. Thanks.

Thanks for the welcome. I'm pleased with the GTR brakes, they definitely felt better than the originals although those were getting tired and I'd had to free them up more than once. They look so much nicer too than the slider type ones on the standard GT. I could probably think back and remember each R34 I've ever seen on the roads since I got mine - maybe a dozen. They are about though and see them at car shows. It always puts a smile on my face when I see another out and about. Asking prices for GTTs are typically £8K or higher and I think are increasing (tiptronic a bit cheaper). I'd have to sell mine first (non-turbo auto are worth much less) and be without it till something right came along. But chances of getting another yellow one are slim and I've become emotionally attached to mine LOL. Engine swap is another idea. NEOs are asking £1.5-2K and I might barely get back a quarter of that selling my RB25DE after. I'm happy to slowly gather the bits till I've got everything and then decide what to do. I can always sell the bits on again if I take a different route.

Hello. I've been lurking for a long time from here in the UK but finally joined up. Had my R34 since early 2010. It's a GT (tiptronic) and this site's often been a big help even though I've been a member of other UK sites all this time. A few basic mods ... Apexi adjustable suspension R32 GTR Sumitomo brakes all round Alloy radiator and Evans waterless cooling K&N intake Iridium plugs GTT standard exhaust from cat back 350 GT wheels Got some East Bear skirts to go on at some point too but not in a rush. I've also just acquired a turbocharger from a GTST and now going to see if I can gather the remaining bits for a +t on a reasonable budget. Looks like there's enough of you have done that and might be able to answer some of the questions I can't find answers to. Here she is ...