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Coullsy

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Everything posted by Coullsy

  1. Mine isn’t yet, but it can be added in, after the motor is wired there still are a few available outputs that can be used for what ever you please. If you run out of outputs you can get a CAN hub and add more.
  2. ECU is controlling everything engine related including fuel, throttle, idle control etc, factory computer is handling the Auto trans, works a treat. Car is currently making 252awkw
  3. I have recently put a Haltech Elite 2500 in my M35 with the VQ25DET, i believe it is the first to have it done in the country. I have been working with Matt from Haltech to clean up and sort out the base map for the computer, which was a sucess. The car is now tuned and it runs beautifully.
  4. So an update on this for those interested. Turns out that the Emanage was dumping alot of fuel into the cylinders. instead of dealing with the emanage, it was ripped out and now i have installed a Haltech Elite 2500. The car is together and has been tuned. Currently making a healthy 252AWKW.
  5. There are quite a few available on Ebay, if you have broken one, check your insurance policy, if you have glass cover they will cover all windows, not just front
  6. Ignition condenser has been changed, as has both cam sensors, all connector plugs rechecked, throttle body is operating normally. anyone have any ideas?
  7. codes reset, and the only one that comes up is 1320
  8. Ive attached a quick video of the spark, to me it looks weak, as I believe it's meant to be a bright blue, but that could be from the gal I had in the tester. i did manage to finally get it to throw codes which came up with the following. 0100 - AFM 1320 - ignition signal 0110 - intake air temp sensor 1705 (I counted 1805, but could of counted wrong, will confirm)- Throttle position sensor circuit A/T The 0100 AFM fault may be because I disconnected it and tried to start it to eliminate it. I will reset the codes and see what it throws up again. Would the 0110 code be related to the above? 1320 code I don't know what it could be, as I've done the coils, plugs, CAS and rechecked all the plugs (possibly throwing the codes due to not resetting after changing them?) Is it possible that the TPS is the issue that is preventing it from starting? IMG_5996.MOV
  9. I have asked the question, suposably it never has done it previously.
  10. Unfortunatly don't have any software for it, it was tuned by DVS tuning by the previous owner
  11. Bosch 1000cc i will pull a coil pack again tomorrow and see if it is sparking properly
  12. Adelaide, It has 3/4 of a tank, you can here the fuel pump start up, strong smell of fuel, and when I pulled the plugs they were wet, the lights on the emanage are on
  13. M35 won't fire Evening, sorry about the long post but I'm trying to give as much info as possible. I have recently acquired a 2001 M35 stagea (VQ25DET), the morning after driving it home it it would turn over but not fire, after 10 minutes of trying it finally fired up but ran like crap. Next few starts it started and ran well. Saturday morning it started and drove fine. Come Saturday afternoon it wound over and over, after 20 minutes of trying it finally started, but ran terribly all the way home. Got it home and shut it off and tried to restart it and it just wouldn't fire. Sunday morning I tried and just keeps winding. I have checked all the fuses, changed all the coils, the plugs, the immobiliser batteries and the CAS and it still won't fire, when turning over it will get the occasional cough but that's it. The cam sensors were changed with the recal but I'm not sure how long ago. The car is running a Greddy Emanage and the MIL light is on all the time (owner said this and after searching it is a common thing with these ECU's) I have tried the self diagnostic thing with the key and the pedal but for the life of me I can't get the MIL to flash, I've used a stop watch to time everything and still can't, no sure if just me or emanage has something to do with it I don't have a scan tool and can't start the car to take it anywhere, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on why it won't fire?
  14. Not really, at the end of the day and ECU is an investment, its something that you need to do only once if you do it right, it can be remapped and tuned right through the build of the car to get the most out of the items you are installing. Nistune is probably the cheapest bang for buck ECU you can buy, depending on what you plan to do in the future rally determines what you buy, if your going to build a track monster or want more parameters, than it would be worthwhile looking at a Link G4, Haltech 2500 etc etc
  15. Purchase yourself a Z32 ECU, send it to a nistune dealer, get it chipped and a base map put on, than get it tuned
  16. as @oweban said, once fixed, insure with shannons
  17. it is considering mine is insured for $15k who are you insured with?
  18. @93R33gtst really?, if that's the case you must be waaaay under insured.
  19. by the looks of the photo the bar and the guard are the extent of the damage, id hit up the wreckers and try and find replacements in the same colour, would be cheaper to buy the parts secondhand than it would be for your excess.
  20. Oh wow, that is insane
  21. The plastic underneath the long sticker is a lid, on the back up the top you will find 2 x screwdriver slots to pop it up and the caps are under there. The new range of Century's batteries have gone maint. free Odyssey are great batteries also, all comes down to your budget.
  22. That battery wasn't sealed to begin with, i would recommend a Optima Yellow or Red Top battery, they are fantastic, better power per size then most batteries on the market, and completely sealed, you could install it upside down if you really wanted to.
  23. haha ill see how i go when it starts to cool down, my mind set is i need to get up for work anyway and it still will be cold then.....see if it works
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