Coullsy

Buy all the components yourself, that way you know exactly what you have in the car. I personally run Penrite Oils throughout, for all the oils and relevant filters it will set you back around $250, $100-$150 in labour if you take it to a mechanic to do it for you. or if your handy on the tools you will be able to knock it out. The spark plugs are a bit dearer the will be close to $100 for the set, also a relatively easy job to tackle yourself. With the Km's on the car i would assume that you checked that it had the timing belt done at the 200,000 mark as these need to be replaced every 100,000. If it hasn't been done i would advise to do the water pump as well, unless you have had experience working on cars, this one is best left to the mechanics, parts and labour for this job will be around the $500 mark.

Congratulations on your buy. The search button is your friend, this has be covered countless times. First "modification" should always be a complete service of the car. All fluids, filters, plugs. Following that, brakes, suspension and tyres, spend decent money here, as it literally is the difference between life and death. Free that you can start playing around with power upgrades. Boost control, turbos, fuel system, ECU ect ect. You car has a 'BOV' from factory, they can handle decent power before they start bypassing, no point upgrading unless it is leaking at this point in time.

Cruising through Facebook as one does and up popped a R33 strut brace for a massive sum of $20. Not sure of the brand, but the tube itself is made of quite thick aluminium and is strong and ridged. It is quite rough looking so the plan was to clean it up and see what it was like, for $20 can't really go wrong Turns out the feet had 3 different layers of paint on it the original being red. A dose of paint stripper was required. Everything cleaned up quite well after all the layers of dodgy paint was removed. Missus wasn't home so I decided to use the best part hanging rack I have for painting. I didn't really fancy the anodised blue so I decided to do the feet in the original red and paint the cross bar in aluminium silver. This is before clear coat. After clear coat, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out, not to shabby for a rattle can job, like anything really if it's prepped properly and you take your time you can get great results. Aaaaaand fitted to the car.

$24 for 36, you would just throw it away after you have finished with it

as above, you already have the beginnings of something magical

I have read through tis a bit, has anyone had any experiance with the Potenza RE11s tyres?

How about Goolwa? Maybe even Granet Island at Victor Harbor

Whoever owned the car before me has spliced a wire coming from the module and earthed it, is that what you are referring to?

Installed the new pump today, after pulling the module turns out it had a Walbro 255LPH pump in there already (now for sale). I replaced the tank seal and greased it up when reinstalling it so hopefully the fuel smell issue is now solved. I was a little concerned that the pump maybe noisy but it is nice and quiet.

Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump For Sale Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, perfect working condition Removed from the car due to upgrading $50 posted

Turns out triple post

oops, double post

As you can see, quite chuffed, Rick Kelly's rear bar, and all current drivers signatures

you wont buy hub centric spacers that thin, 10mm will be the thinnest you will get, and as @niZmO_Man said GKTech. At the end of the day they will set you back $100 for the set off 4. Stud centric spacers are cheap for a reason. They are illegal and more dangerous.

Just bought my GTST and unfortunately i need to adult since moving interstate and buy another house

I think you need a couple more gauges in there i am just jealous though, because i would love a 33 GTR

New seat and rail has been installed. Here are the comparisons on height and legroom. OLD: Front height (Front most lip of seat base) 760mm Rear Height (Rear most section of seat base) 930mm Leg room (Front lip of seat to brake pedal) 560mm NEW: Front height - 800mm Rear height - 940mm Leg room - 630mm It is an autotecnica seat and to be blunt, it is shit. The seat back has over 100mm of movement, so when you hit boost you feel like you will end up laying down. Currently organizing them to either replace or refund the seat. If i had the money i would get a Bride, but funds say no as there are other little things that need doing first. I have bought an Aeroflow 340LPH E85 compatible fuel pump and i will be upgrading the rest of the fuel system to E85 safe hosing for future endeavors. The o-ring on the top of the tank leaks so i will replace it, and figured while i was in there i might as well upgrade the pump.

My opinion this is what i did with mine first and its what i recommend. 1. Complete service - new oils (engine, gearbox, diff) new filters (oil, air, fuel) new plugs, check belts. this way you know exactly what you have in your car and that it all has been done. 2. Brakes - upgrade to new pads and rotors, don't skimp here get yourself something decent 3. Tyres - check to see what is on the car currently, if it is a cheap unknown brand, get something that is known and quality. 4. Suspension - Coil overs or decent strut/shocks and springs, check all your bushes, upgrade sway bars. now you have a good solid platform that will handle when needed and will stop, you can start looking at power. 5. Elec boost controller and new BOV, the stock turbo will handle up to 12psi, with a GFB boost controller you can adjust alot of perimeters like spool up rate, max boost, overboost cut etc. reason for new BOV is over time factory ones can bleed boost. Don't buy ebay stuff, do it once do it properly. 6. 3" turbo back mandrel bent exhaust. now you have enough power to have fun with for a while till you get comfortable with the car. From here the mods are relative to the depths of your pockets New turbo, coil packs, fuel system upfrade, ECU, Tune, E85 etc etc

i wish i never looked at your channel haha, makes me want a drone even more

I laughed a little harder at this than i probably should of. love the workshop

What would of made the video worth watching is power figures, was kinda pointless

Messed around getting the LH mirror to fold in today, pulled it apart and found one of the contacts had come loose, glued that in, tested it and worked a treat. Put it all back together, and mounted it on the car, tested it again, worked great, reinstalled the door trim, packed all the tools away, test the mirror once more, it folded in but not back out. Bastard. Pulled it all back apart again and turns out the non broken contact had gotten jealous of the flash fixed one and unmounted itself from the pityful plastic blobs that hold it in. Glued it in and put it all back together with testing pretty much after every screw and all is sweet. I know at one stage you could buy from a member a module that made the mirrors fold in when you switch the car off but he has been inactive for a few years, so im going to get a few relays and make it work'. once done ill post a diagram.

Looks very similar to the VE commodore blue to me

This is something i need to get around to doing