gazman2

Yeah same here! I've not got any time to investigate further so for now it's just drivers seat in. Totally weird at first getting used to the much lower seating position but overall I'm loving it!

The seatbelt socket is different too - possibly updated between earlier NM35 and PNM35? Will have a look at swapping over after lunch anyway...didn't expect to spend half a day on this!

Here are some pics to illustrate. I've circled the area of the frame that's contacting the tunnel. I'd say the seat is at least 15-20mm out from fitting so there's no way of forcing it in that I can see

Hi guys - am in the process of fitting cloth 350z seats to my PNM35 and have run into an issue. Drivers side went in easy but I've gone to fit the passenger side and it seems the rail is obstructed by a bulge in the transmission tunnel. Anyone got any ideas?? Really don't want to bodge anything and feeling a bit down that they're not the straight swap I'd hoped for.

Ah right - I did wonder if there was meant to be another rubber bush above? Don't think there's one on the other side either. I really need to get under and check the forward points to see what's going on there. Pretty sure my rear diff mount is knackered as it has the telltale trickle of oil down it...wonder if that's because it was under added stress.

M35 torn inner CV boot and rear subframe question Hi guys - hope you're all well! Loving my PNM35 so far and finding for the most part it's been quite reliable and easy to maintain. Just run into my first proper problem though with a torn front inner CV boot. Has anyone fixed these with aftermarket before or is it best to get the Nissan part? Is it the same part as the rear inner CV boot?! Also attached a few pics of my rear subframe. I've noticed when I jack up the car the rear subframe moves down quite a lot - is this normal? I didn't want to go wrenching on it to try and tighten it right up if it's meant to have this kind of movement but it seems like an awfully big gap. Other than recently replacing my rear calipers it's just been basic maintenance and I've just got the odd suspension squeaks and rattles to hunt down. Either loose top mounts on my rear shocks or worn anti roll bar links or bushing I'm thinking.

I wasn't planning on going turbo no. I really want to stay NA even though I know it's much harder to make power that way. Had ideas for cams and a new intake of my own design. Without a tuning solution though it doesn't look like it'd be worth pursuing.

PNM35 ECU tuning/standalone/piggy back options Apologies if this has been covered to death but I'm trying to investigate tuning options for my PNM35 in the future. Any engine work would be a waste if there aren't any proper tuning solutions and so far I can't find anything to confirm if someone has managed to tune a PNM35 either by way of flashing the standard ECU or piggyback/standalone ECUs. I've found a lot of threads regarding ECU possibilities but most seemed focussed on the NM35 turbo cars which I know have a totally different ECU. Can someone please give me a definitive answer...is there a proper tuning solution out there for these cars that doesn't cause all sorts of issues and error codes??

Thanks Dale! Think I know what you mean about wandery - my accord was annoyingly wandery on the motorway and that was zero toe all round. Really impressed with the M35 handling and stability so far and just don't want to mess it up.

M35 rear shock top hat/mount Apologies if this has been covered before but does anyone know where I can buy new top hat/mounts for the rear shocks on an M35. Went to install my Nismo S-tune kit today and found the gaskets on the rear mounts had failed allowing a load of water to collect. The top nut is rusted to buggery and I can't remove the top hat/mount thing to put onto my new shocks. Any ideas anyone?

Guess what I'm asking is DO I want neutral toe though? Just wondered if anyone knew why specs I've seen seem to recommend toe in front and rear. Has anyone tried something different?

Sorry to dredge this thread up but I'll be taking my M35 to get aligned once I've fitted the Nismo S-tune kit I just bought. Looking at the alignment specs that people have mentioned the M35 should have 1mm of toe in front and rear? Is that correct? Every other car I've had recently the toe needed to be 0 front and rear and I've always been told toe in is the worst cause of premature tyre wear. Just want to make sure - if that's what it should be for some handling reason then I'll go with that but otherwise tempted to get it lined up straight like my scooby was.

Haha yeah not my car! Don't think I'd have asked if it was...

Anyone recognise these alloys? Been trying to work out what these wheels are as I think they really suit the Stagea. Anyone got a clue whose they are? The guy states Work on his blog but I can't see any past or present Work alloys that match https://www.drive2.com/l/9814507/

I'd be happy to do that!

Hi John Yeah I still have the invoice - the part codes on it are: GS10-22-100-150 Gas strut B10 10mm metal ball socket B3 10mm angled plastic ball socket GS8-18-100-140 gas strut B1 10mm plastic ball socket Not sure which is which strut but I can take a look if you're only wanting to order the boot struts for example.

Thanks Josh - that's good to know as I'm looking at either those or R35 seats. Obviously 350z seats are a fair bit cheaper!

Fuga seats look pretty good. I'm still not sure about going full leather again as found I was slipping around everywhere when I had them in my Legacy. No idea how anyone lives with the stock fabric seats though...they are awful! Can't wait to replace them!!

No idea if you guys have found suitable replacements in OZ/NZ for your M35 Stagea tailgate and boot floor struts but I've just managed to order some new ones from SGS engineering in the UK. Cost about £100 / approx 160 AUD for all 4 struts. Will let you know how I get on when they arrive!

Any chance of getting one sent to the UK??

Finally got my M35 road worthy - had to have a custom y-pipe section made but I'm not too upset as it's stainless and has a lifetime warranty. Found a great little exhaust place close to me called Cybox that's done some cool 370z exhausts - check their short tail exhausts on youtube. Not planning on going that loud myself but I might get them to fab up some nice dual exhausts to finish off the job at some point!

That's crazy thin! Nice to see how it sits on the S-tune suspension though. Hoping to get mine on that at some point although think I'll be aiming for 245/45/18 when I get new wheels due to the poor road quality in the UK. I've just stuck brand new tyres (RE002's) on the original 17's so that won't be for too long though. Lots of plans but for now just need to get the thing road legal and running!

Thanks for the reply Josh and great pics! How low profile are those tyres!! Looks like I might have to find someone to custom fabricate the front section then if there's no off the shelf replacements

Thanks for the info guys. Went to get the car MOT'd yesterday and unfortunately it failed on emissions. The guy testing said the car began to overheat during the test so he had to turn it off. He didn't think the fan was running. I immediately got the car running again and temp was fine...no sign of overheat on way to or on the way back from the test. Reckon it's possible the fan hadn't kicked in before as the car's been sat for months? It's getting retested on Thurs but I'm going to take it for a good run first this time as it'd only done 4 miles to the garage. The exhaust may also have a minor leak around the flexi hose section on the driver side. Guessing this is a fairly common problem with these cars now given their age? I'd been looking into getting a Fujitsubo exhaust but that only replaces from the centre back correct?

Haha! Thanks Bob. Do agree it is strange we've held onto mph on cars as we do already use metres and grams for everything else. Apart from beer... pints just sound cooler