Jonic

So far so good, coolant level is still leveled, nothing leaking but I got a new radiator cap and replaced that. I bought myself a new water pump just in case for back up. Fingers crossed

Bless you GTSBOY ! Those are Music to my hears, I Really hope so for my Sake !

Hey Helpers ! Vehicle : 2003 Nissan Skyline V35, Coupe. / Modified Parts - After Market Exhaust, Stillen Inktake. So here's the scenario, I just got home after a 15min drive on a sunny hot day to quickly go and change and I left the car on idling with my air conditioner on low. Roughly 5 mins later I came back out and saw the Car was smoking with steam from through the bonnet ! I then ran quickly and switched off the engine and open the bonnet ! I suddenly saw my coolant reservoir boiling like its 1000 Degrees and it was leaking a lot around that area Next thing I did was I let the car cool down, while looking around I could also hear my car oil boiling as well. After about another 5 mins.. MY COOLANT SUDDENLY JUST DRAINED EMPTIED ! (I believed it escaped from my Water Pumps Weep Hole) I was not happy with the situation, thinking I have a leak somewhere. So I then went to fill the Radiator and the reservoir with coolant after it cooled down and checked for leaks at the bottom .... but NOTHING ! Instead it retained its coolant level ! ???? So I started the car up and warmed it up but still no leak but the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON ! Next day I decided to take it to the mechanics and went to check the CODES and it came up P1217 - ENG OVER TEMP & P0327 Knock Sensor / Circuit B1 He also checked my Fan motor 40amp FUSE with the circuit tester and said it was blown which would've caused the car to overheat since it failed to turn the fan on. So he replace the fuse and cleared the engine code afterwards and said it should be all good. (40amp Fan fuse located next to the battery) Car runs fine so far, I haven't really went too far but so far it's not overheating or anything. MY MAIN QUESTION IS.... WAS THIS ALL BECAUSE OF THE 40AMP FAN FUSE !??!? Should I even replaced my Water Pump since it leaked through the weep hole or keep driving it since its not leaking right now ? My mechanic told me that there was a possible chance the Knock Sensor probably came up was cause my Fan Motor Fuse was blown and failed to cool the radiator down and caused the sensor to go off so it should be okay for now, what are your thoughts ? Should I replace the sensor too ? THANK YOU HELPERS !

Haha loving it BORCI

my apologies to everyone, i did everything you guys told me but i still couldn't diagnose it and got frustrated cause it felt like I was the only one getting this problem on a Skyline and nothing was working. So excuse my attitude if you guys got insulted in anyway. Peace

lol desperate times when you can't get your car started. It had too many different problems that I made different threads for different response lol

Yeah it was already broken but it played up my ecu and how the engine ran, therefore making the car have a hard start up and also having some rough idles here and there. But thanks for everyone's help !

It was the coolant temp sensor. Everyone is so clueless lol

Coolant temp sensor

OBD 2 scan said it was the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR, I pulled it out and there you go it's broken in half. There's my problem after spending money and time on either irrelevant stuff

Hopefully tomorrow morning I can start my car without having to press my gas pedal in. Let you guys know tomorrow

Went mechanic today, turns out my transmission hose was bent too much and stopped the fluid from going through so he replaced it, and did a clean on the idler valve. Car has been running beautifully, no stall or any random vibration, that's probably why the A/T fault was on the OBD2 scanner. Brilliant.

Car runs fine now and I didn't do anything really, just reset the code and I can finally drive it pass 2000rpm. Problem now is when I'm driving, at a red light my idle drops and sometimes the car dies, but starts right back up no problem. Any clues because my mechanics are clueless. The cel code was A/T and ABS fault but that has nothing to do with my current problem zz

Dam that's not good to hear, I think I broke it cause it's hard starting my car now and once the car is warmed up and I shut it off and start the car again it revs up to 2000rpm like it's cold when the engine is actually already warm

Took it to the mechanics and there clueless, went to 3 different places. They got the same code but are clueless why it's having trouble starting. Have to push the pedal in every morning start up. Am randomly car struggles with revs then shuts down when at a red light. Car idles perfectly at 1000 when warmed up no hesitation or shaking only until when it's warm up it will randomly just drop revs like it's about to die on me