32psi

911 Turbo or bust for me at those prices. Don't care how many have been produced I'd buy it because it's the better car. GTR's were always the best car in their price point. It could hang with the big boys for a fraction of the cost but lets be realistic that's not the case anymore... There was a crossover point where the GTR stopped being appreciated for what it really was and instead became a drag/wank/Paul Walker/youtuber/instagrammer car

I'll admit it makes a ton of torque and has a GT42 in front of it but 98% of the time it see's sensible street use. Is it synchro's or bearings or? I was considering laying down the cash for a new oem box but not if it's going to be buttfcuked quickly.

I've always had a slight whine in 4th and 5th in my R33 Gtst 5spd but lately it's turned into a full blown dog box whine under acceleration. It varies a little with throttle and load but for the most part it's always there whilst driving. Is there a recommended transmission rebuilder for these gearboxes to take it to in Melbourne? What sort of parts am I looking at and is it likely to happen again due to power level or is it a wear issue?

Just go a stock RB30 block for the time being. You wont see 500rwkw with it but you'll get damn close for a fraction on E85 with a set of rod bolts, oil pump and new rings. Sell your twins setup. Find a used 6boost with a turbo strapped on. Put your money to a new fuel system, clutch and a good tuner.

I went from a xforce 100cell cat to an Outlaw 200cell cat and the difference in fume smell was huge. Tune wasn't altered at all, I was pretty pissed about the Outlaw because it wasn't cheap but well worth it when I warm it up in the garage. 440rwkw goes through it.

Get rid of the 2.5" section and go 3" or bigger. Boost level will change it and also running no filter will change the sound.

Is the head standard on that engine?

The workshop probably quoted the shit out of the car and plan to buy it from the insurance company so it will be in your best interest to buy it if it's not a write off (which it sounds like it's not)

If you're on a budget all you have to do is buy a used turbo from a turbo falcon and bolt it on. What turbo is on it now? You should be able to sell it too

I've been running RE003 235/45R17 for 2500kms - 373rwkw & 32psi in the tyres and holding second gear perfectly to my surprise. I actually put a spare set of wheels tyres on to see if it was down on power or if it was the tyres. Invos, Michelin PSS and KU36 all didn't bite until 3rd

Attached Posted my price trying to help, not brag...A good modified or factory Calais Turbo fetches 40k+ and a clean factory yellow BT1 will get $70k all day in 2017. Crazy? Yes but it's real just like 34 GT-R prices.

They're not even great for 1/4 mile lol there's a lot of head scratching to do to get those lumps into the 9's. Meanwhile there's daily driven 8 second xr6t's getting about

With NRMA insured my VL for $42k - $281 a year, $300 excess. Shannons were $909 on club reg or $990 on full reg.

The problem is people panic and pay big dollars for them. As much as I want a 32 V-Spec again why should I pay 50k when my first one cost me 16k. I'd rather get into M or AMG cars for GTR coin than pay triple the price for a car I used to own.

Lol I said, "theoretically" but yeah I'm going for the whole "seems legit" look. I was considering finding the biggest engine cover off a new car I could find and just sticking it on top of everything.

Ok I'm just asking because theoretically if I had a RWC for this engine bay if they'd ask many questions lol. The rest of the car is dead stock looking, new paint and bolts front to back. Just curious if become it looks pretty presentable they wont be too bad on me. I know those VicRoads guys aren't mechanics just people who check the vin and engine number but not sure on the likely hood they'll pull me up for my bay...don't want to get the RWC guy in shit. So far I've added the "technicalities". The high mount and turbo are glaringly obvious but so be it. *Custom made new 2 1/4 exhaust off a new 3" dump whisper silent *Re-circ bov *New black powdercoated and enclosed airbox *Screamer plumbed into new exhaust I just want to get registered (not engineered) as the car was previously on a club permit with the old owner.

When you go to VicRoads to register an unregistered car (in my case it was on a club permit but same thing). Does someone come out and inspect the car? Or do they just accept the RWC sign you off? Sounds like a silly question but I haven't been through the un-registered process before.

Harro Hey guys used to have an account here about 10 years ago. Have been into VL's heavily for the past 10 or so years but miss the skylines a bit now you dont see them on the roads that much. Just here to check the place out, hopefully get into a 32/33 gt-r in the future.

What flange am I best to run? T3, T4, VBand? Depends what turbo you find. VBand generally are lighter and flow better. If I am to run Twin Scroll, should I change the housing size? Does a .82 Single Entry flow the same as .82 Twin? You could go 1.06 no problem. A lot of people are telling me to go the GTX3582 route. I don't want more than the 350kw though, as it'll be mainly a street car and I'd actually like to put the power to the ground. (Proper suspension/tyre setup taken into account) Is it better to hit max efficiency on the 3076 or run the 3582? It depends what you want to use the car for. An RB30 bottom end with the 4.11 final drive and a GTX30 will be in wheelspin almost all the time on the street. I'd suggest a GTX3576 on a 1.06 exhaust housing especially if you want to get closer to the 350rwkw than 300rwkw. These turbo's on an RB30 bottom end are far different to the 25. Very responsive and linear. On a 30 housing you will generally see fullboost a full 1000rpm earlier on RB30 than an RB25.