spudtatoe

Got it all sorted.. shop over here verified the base timing then set cam timing, also lowered the idle so now it's at 650rpm with no issues. Gives me peace of mind.

Haha one thing that I've learnt from reading all this is to get a timing light and the timing checked properly.. I've been trying to figure out what plug the tps is on the NEO but can't seem to find it. Only the suggestion it's the brown one which I don't believe it to be on the NEO. Another thing is that when mentioning adjusting idle, that's via the screw on the iac correct? Cheers fam.

I moved the cas so it was 99% where it was before, where it is in the photo is how it sits as we speak. Tiny bit more to the right (advanced?) than the middle. now the IAC idle adjust is set so its about 700rpm.. thats the lowest I can sorta put it without the car not wanting to keep running when started. At some point in my combination of adjusting the idle and cas I had it at say 14 degrees but it was jumping all over the place and would stay still at idle, and then i believe the car wouldn't stay running. How ive got it now seems okay - though now it seems like its a bit higher with about 50degrees timing when driving at certain throttle positions, as in ill be with a constant foot and it will be around that. Pretty damn unsure on if I should try adjust it more or just drive the 1400km with it like this.

Right cheers, I’ll get the timing checked and confirm that base timing is correct then I guess adjust cas from there. I’d say you’re correct about the iac being bottomed out, at idle it sits at about 30-31 and doesn’t move. I’ll adjust it back to what it was.. should I be removing the tps connector when I wind it back? The highest the timing went was about 50, on a whole hour drive, i went up a moderate hill going 100kmh at 2500rpm and the timing was about 30-40 depending on the accelerator, I found the high 50 timing was say when I was in 3rd gear moving along at a constant rpm probably on a slight hill. Hmm it was marked on the old cas so I tried to get it as close to that as possible.. I’ll see if I can compare it again and check. It’s not really a slight rough idle.. it’s pretty aggressive. The rpm doesn’t hunt, stays the same but the car will be shaking all over the place, some days worse than others and only noticeable when the engines warm form what I can tell

So I actually already removed the IACV/AAC and thoroughly cleaned it but when I put it back on the car wouldn’t stay idling after turning on (would instantly die unless revved) and would die after revving it but if I held rpm at around 1k it would idle. So I upped the idle to about 900rpm on the iac screw, I did have the tps plugged in though which I read after it should’ve been unplugged. Should i I watch the “steps” when at idle? What’s a number it’s say, fine at? I guess what concerns me more is that if the timing being that low when at idle etc is it doing harm with me driving? Thanks

Hi all.. TL;DR - timing at idle is 3 degrees according to NDSI (Android).. unsure if safe I recently have been been trying to fix a rumbly idle so replaced a few things etc. I took off my CAS and compared it to a spare one I had from my DE NEO. The one from the de was a lot easier to spin with no resistance whereas the one that was in the DET was quite resistive and wouldn’t spin freely. So I ended up putting the DE cas in and centred it (which was roughly where it was) anyway I happened to look on NDSI and at idle my timing is at 3 degrees?! I was under the impression it should be at 15? While driving and cruising at about 100kmh the timings around 30ish but will go higher/lower depending on how my foot is. Is this a serious issue? Obviously I’m going to get the timing etc checked but I won’t be able to do that until I get back from a 1400km road trip in the car... Cheers

Yeah would be sweet as if we could get this forum up and running, maybe even some meets if there’s enough interest.

Cheers, no budget for mods yet. Just want to enjoy it for a bit first, quite a bit different to the old slow 25de 4wd stag I had beforehand. I just need to change the BOV to a recirc one as the car idles quite rough at the moment. Otherwise its pretty mint

I've been gone a loooong time. Old stagea blew a fitting at the back on the firewall and lost all my coolant.. temp gauge never moved and ultimately killed my engine. Spent a couple months without a stagea and really missed it.. so here I am again, just picked up this RS-v on the weekend, 25DET manual rwd. Sunroof too. Extremely happy

Picked up a second hand canister from a wreckers today for $12 so easy as. Cars now back together and all good! thanks again for explaining what it was.. interesting stuff

Did you buy one new?

Bloody awesome help mate! I guess I shall now try find one locally, if not online it is lol. Wish I didn’t break it in anger now ?

I thought that was the black canister located near the intake duct at the front near the radiator? Is there anyway to bypass this canister if so? or if its low pressure would super gluing the nipple back on work?

Hi all, was changing my oil pressure sensor and broke the nipple on this fine can of emptiness last night, has 2 vac lines going to it... located under the intake runner/plenum thingy lol. Thanks

So I haven’t posted in a while here but I picked up a Takeros kit which needed a bit of work and paint and it’s slowly making its way to being done. its had the fibreglassing work done thanks to one of the awesome dudes at my work, I just need to bog it from the front and sand everything down and prep for paint. I will need to remove my tow bar which is a bummer but not the end of the world.

What did you end up cutting?

I’m about 6’2-3 and it’s fine to drive but a little more room wouldn’t hurt. Can’t help with anything else though

I'm long overdue posting an update.. don't even remember what the last thing I posted was lol Anyway, some stuffs has happened, most important one is that my car no longer pings... Took it to E&H Motors out in Pukekohe and they found that the timing was off, which is what I had suspected. A fair chunk of money later i'm happy that the car is now 100% better. On a cooler note, I bought a LSD diff which I was gonna chuck into a 4WD stag casing but I derped and forgot about the ABS stub axles.. so now I need to try and find some 3x2 LSD ABS stub axles that I can use... otherwise I might try find some 5x1LSD ABS stub axles and put them in it, but that involves buying the axles as well... Also got given a spare casing, but I can't use that anyway. You can see the ABS ring on the stub axle that I need, apparently the open diff one that I have is too short to be used in the LSD unfortuantly. Also changed out my coolant and changed spark plugs/coil packs to brand new ones. Other than that nothing cool has happened haha

My towbar is rated 500kg unbraked and 1600kg braked. S1 RS4 (Non turbo)

Okay so I have a blitz axelback, wich is 2.5", and then I was able to measure the o.d. of the pipe right around the diff, it's 2", I'm thinking it's same all the way through? No idea with M35 but a neo det exhaust is 2.5" and a DE neo is 2.25" i think, and its the same the whole way through

I would but it's winter here in Canada and I don't have access to a hoist at the moment Should be able to measure it from under the car while its on the ground, unless its slammed to its guts

The top one is stagea and bottom is GTR correct?

Chopped?

Holy that sounds mint!

Interesting to know, might try call him as well, M&H want $65 to scan then most likely more from then on lol. my guess is the timing is off because I’ve got a flat spot/jerk around 3500RPM that I can reproduce in second gear every time. My only thing about taking it to a workshop is if they don’t know how to properly time it (not using the loop at back of coil loom, unplugging tps etc) i’d rather have it done once and done correctly.