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Eric0

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Everything posted by Eric0

  1. UPDATE: Hi all! As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!
  2. You’re one high-energy passionate enthusiast and I’m here for it! Haha. But too late! Went with the G30-660 with a custom built housing! I asked Tao from HyperGearTurbo if he could add the option on the website and he agreed! So if there ever is another poor soul in my situation they now have the option to buy it Total for supercore + housing: ~$3585AUD and I was considering turbos from Pulsar/ HyperGear for $1400-2500 AUD …Well! I’ll post up the dyno results when I get to that stage! Thank you all for your input!! Sincerely, A less hot, learning head
  3. Update 3: shipping will be 100AUD. I do think a total of 1100AUD is doable for a custom built G30-660 T3 TS .82 A/R Vband, but I’m also finding T3 to T4 TS adapters for $67AUD and a .85 A/R TS T4 housing for 500AUD. I know the turbo would sit about 1.25cm higher (which means redoing my downpipe and intercooler piping) and two gaskets…
  4. Update 2: To make a custom TS T3 .82 Vband housing to suit a G30 super core, it will be $1000AUD. I’m still inquiring shipping cost
  5. Posting an update: Contacted HyperGear, Tao said he might be able to build a T3 .82 TS Vband! Waiting to hear back on cost and shipping.
  6. I’ve reached out to HyperGear to see if they could build a compatible exhaust housing. We’ll see what they say! I currently have an external 44mm tial wastegate on my manifold.
  7. Close, but it’s not a twinscroll housing looking for a divided T3
  8. I’ll reach out to him and see what options we have on building a custom housing. I’ll report back
  9. Well… maybe I do go back and look into the 7670? I’m seeing a .72 T3 twinscroll option. how does the spool compare to the g30-660 series?
  10. I’m seeing T3 to T4 twin scroll adapters. This should work? https://privatelabelmfg.com/products/precision-works-t3-to-t4-divided-turbo-flange-adapter?variant=34085762138250&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=18293857672&utm_term=&utm_campaign=**LP+Shop+-+pMax+-+Precision+Works&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=8464848152&hsa_cam=18293857672&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADla3MIVCZh3G3-4mL4aDYDUhP9n8&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo9q-2PyEiQMVmA6tBh3enzi_EAQYASABEgIgnfD_BwE Feels kinda silly stacking plates and adding another gasket.
  11. Those are some serious numbers! Based on the input I’ve received, seems like the G-series would be the move for same power and response 🙌🏾 Thanks for sharing, and confirming that a G-series turbo is the move! I can post my before and after dyno results and see what changes going from a GTX to G-series has
  12. That’s what I’m noticing… seems like a popular size is 0.82 A/R, I’m considering this: T3 twinscroll .82AR, but I’m unsure what brand because I’m not seeing Garett having the option.
  13. Okay! I bought a Garrett G30-660 supercore! I’m thinking of parring the G30-660 with a T3 .82 twinscroll. What do you think? Any advantages in spooling if I stepped down to .62? Seems like it would restrict the engine to about 400hp
  14. I’m starting to lean towards the Garrett G30-660 but wondering what exhaust housing I should select for the 450-550 power range with quick spool. Any thoughts on this?
  15. This was amazing and something I feel like a lot of younger enthusiasts, like myself, need to hear. I've been observing a local dyno shop spitting out 650-800HP RBs but when looking at their graphs, the car is basically dead until 5-6k RPM when it skyrockets. I’ve decided to change my goal and go for that 450whp mark and aim for quick spool, responsiveness, and practicality (I can't afford my engine being a consumable, haha). Now, looking for the best suitable turbo for this application, I'm considering: • Garett GTX3076R Gen 2 ( .62 or .82) • Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2 ( .62 or .82), room for improvement later? • HyperGear ATR43SS2 ( .62 or .82) • Pulsar PSR3076 ( .62 or .82) • Pulsar PSR3576 ( .62 or .82), room for improvement later? Any recommendations? I know the HyperGear and Pulsar aren’t name brands but they’re sure budget friendly
  16. Awesome! Thank you for the confirmation. We’ll see if anyone has experience with HyperGear, Pulsar, or other turbo brands with good response and overall power. After more research, I’m leaning towards the HyperGear ATR43SS3 ProR with .63 turbine. This a dyno graph from an RB25DET Neo with following mods: • 1650cc injectors • adaptronic plug-in ECU • 600x300x81mm Intercooler • 3in exhaust • 4in downpipe • R35 GTR Coilpacks • twin scroll manifold • twin 50mm wastegate What do you think?
  17. Gotcha! Thank you for the correction. The goal would be 600 bald eagle (screech) pony power yielded on a roller dyno, but I’m more interested in responsiveness at low RPM and full-boost before 4000RPM.
  18. Hi! That is correct. 91 Octane US. probably similar to P98 AUS. I’ll update my location
  19. Hi! I’m looking to replace my current turbo on my S1 RB25DET in order to make 600HP but maintain responsiveness. I’m looking at the HyperGear ATR43SS-3 in T3 .63 A/R or the Pulsar PSR3576 Gen2 T3 .82 A/R. I’m still learning how turbo sizes effect lag, response, and power band. I’m looking to see if anyone can share their experience with either of these turbos or can recommend another to meet my goal? These are my mods: • Running 91 octane most of the time and occasionally E85 on track days • top mount twin scroll manifold • 44mm external wastage • 1300CC fuel injectors • mishimoto intercooler M-line • 3in intercooler pipes • g-reddy intake manifold • link g4+ • NZWiring trigger kit • GTR R35 coilpacks • built bottom and top • 4” down-pipe and exhaust
  20. Hi Robbo! Always lovely hearing from you! You’ve helped me with a lot of issues! Yes, the 150A breaker is quality and I’ve never had it trip until recently with the idling issues. All alternator associated wiring was upgraded to sustain high current. I just had Jono go over my ECU and he was able to pin point the triggers being a reason why the stalls out. The ECU had a lot of trigger errors. Not sure why the breaker went off, or ECU shut off, maybe due to bad trigger feedback? I will resolve the trigger issue and see if the weird behavior persists.
  21. Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  22. Hi Robert! Always a pleasure to hear from you. Yes, I’ll have to set a meter to verify the voltage is around 6v. Then verify the charge is at 14.2v Other than figuring out the correct size resistor, is the wiring diagram correct for a functional charging system?
  23. Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric
  24. Hi everyone! I have had battery charging issues before which have been resolved using this wonderful forum and well... here I am again! Yay... So, from the beginning. I've been driving my car for about 2 months now and my dash-lights went out about a week ago. Then yesterday, I'm leaving school and the car decides it doesn't have enough charge to start. I replaced my battery thinking it was just old (4 years) and got a nice fresh yellow-top. That made me curious to look at my voltage gauge and it displayed 13.88v. As I drove the car, I noticed it dropped to 12.88 and stayed there. When the car is off: battery is 12.42v. When the car is on, battery is 12.42v. When the car is on the road, 12v-12.88v. I have driven the car for about 3 days and its consistently sitting around 12v-12.88 but doesn't go up to 14v. My voltage gauge shows 12.88v max voltage when driving. I checked the alternator stud and it showed 13.53.v charge. I checked the 75A fuse, and it showed 13.48v. I started the car and disconnected the terminals from the battery to measure the charge to the battery and it read 12.41v (I did this quickly as I know the battery acts as a buffer). So, the battery is being charged at 12.41v, the alternator is producing 13.53 volts, all fuses are good, I don't have a charge light but my dash board lights did go out before I started noticing this problem. I tested the exciter wire (off the alternator) when the car is off: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (red/white wire off alternator) I tested the big wire (off the alternator) when the car is on: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (big white wire off the connection) The way I tested the wires was by taking off the plug and measuring the pins while the car is running off the alternator. I replaced the alternator in 2020, so I believe it should be good. But I do have an oem sitting around that was tested good before. Do you guys have any suggestions?
  25. It will mostly be a cruiser and occasional drag for fun on the weekends. I think you’ve convinced me! I’ll go with a GYX3076r .82 AR Twin scroll housing with twin scroll manifold. I’ll report back with results after I order all the parts, install them, and get it on the dyno. thank you all! All my questions have been answered
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