Eric0
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Everything posted by Eric0
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It will mostly be a cruiser and occasional drag for fun on the weekends. I think you’ve convinced me! I’ll go with a GYX3076r .82 AR Twin scroll housing with twin scroll manifold. I’ll report back with results after I order all the parts, install them, and get it on the dyno. thank you all! All my questions have been answered
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Oh man!! That is super funny to describe an exhaust manifold in that manner!! Haha, what’s a good laugh. Those are pricy! I’m seeing one for $1042. Plus $400 for the twin scroll housing, that puts me at 500- 800 more and I can just get a GTX3576r turbo and keep my current setup. Is a twin scroll setup worth it? GTX3076R .82AR Twin Scroll with Since twin scroll manifold ~1600 OR GTX3576r .62AR and keep my single scroll exhaust manifold ~1900 I will also be purchasing: 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor 76mm FMIC goal 500+ but hopefully 600hp, I’m currently at 400hp pump gas
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I have heard about twin scroll setups but I have a question, does the exhaust manifold require two wastegates? theoretically, if I go with a twin scroll setup, I’m currently running a 44mm wastegate. Would I neede a second 44mm wastegate to go to the other side?
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Hello, I’ve researched quite a few threads and read through page 72 and everyone prefers the gtx3576r over the 3076r. It produces more power with a smaller AR due to the bigger turbine. I also read that a .82 housing will be about as big a gtx3076r housing should be before it becomes laggy and unproductive. For the time being, I’ll upgrade to a .82 housing and get a front mount intercooler (mine is pretty small, 24x12x4.5). I was reading a forum and a guy said: “Im running the GTX30R with .82 Tial housing. Spool is very quick, awesome turbo for the street.” Then a dyno graph was posted. Do exhaust housing brands affect the flow of the turbo? Tial is famous for their v-band flanges, are they better to regular T3/T4? I’m currently planning for: .82 tial housing (thermo coating the housing) 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor 76mm FMIC (still need to do more research on this)
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Hello Robbo_rb180, I do want a a relatively linear trend throughout my power-band, and it sounds like your build was just perfect! To this day, I’m still thoroughly impressed with your tuning ability! Hello GTSBoy, Would a better alternative is to go with another turbo than swapping my housing to a .94? The dyno is a typical high reading dyno. I’ll be sure to check out those threads to become better informed
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My concern is getting too big of an AR. My .63 is suffocating, so a .94 seems promising. However, would it be too much to still have a esponsive turbo? Could I use a 40-50 shot of NOS to help the turbo spool quicker? I’m aiming for 600hp. My idea is to do flex fuel and increase turbo AR. I have a fully built engine making 400whp, but it’s not where I want it yet.
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Hello! Thank you for your input. I think I’ll combine your suggestions and do: 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor Additionally, I topped out at 400hp flat due to restricted air flow, so I’m increasing my .62 A/R turbo to a .94. Is this a good idea to get more airflow?
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Well, I have found flex fuel fuel pumps and injectors, however, I don’t know much about brands. For example, I found an AEM flex fuel pump at 340lph. Is that a good fuel pump and enough lph? I currently have a 550 walbro and 740cc deatschwerks my tuner suggested 2 years ago. Part Number: 3C1450 Or a Bosh 040 in tank fuel pump. For injectors I have found: dynamic 1000cc fuel injectors or are my current injectors okay to keep? Are these good brands and ratings for 600hp, or does anyone have recommended parts? thank you!
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Hello! I have decided to run a flex fuel setup on my RB25DET. The engine is fully built with forged internals and GTX3076R turbo. To increase HP, I’ve decided to change my fuel system to flex fuel to enable e85. However, I’m new to this e85 world and would like to be informed correctly for my setup. I’m currently pushing 400HP at 17PSI. What fuel pump should I run? what fuel injectors should I use? what sensor should I use for e85 and regular octane detection? thank you!
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Hormonic Balancer Bent, Should I Be Worried?
Eric0 replied to Eric0's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Okay! It’s been a few months and the car is back on the road! That accident I had completely threw the sixth beating out of line and was very quickly causing damage to the crank. it has been rebuilt again. -
Yes, robbo_rb180 was helping me setup the ECU with timing and other adjustments. Now the engine idles around 700RPM. It is significantly better but now I have a tune scheduled in 4 weeks so I will update the results! Thank you all!
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I’d be happy to send a copy and learn some parameter programming! Can I have your email? Is it okay to change the timing settings? Will it mess with my tune? I do plan to get the car retuned once the engine is all broken in but I want to drive it to the tuner and it’s a 3 hour drive! ;)
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I opened the software and it looks like the timing isn’t 15 from BTDC from reading the ignition timing number 1 in the image. So, I should be setting my engine to 10 degrees? I texted my tuner and he said the ECU needs to be synchronized with the engine for proper timing (sync timing). The image shows the previous timing. I don’t know what the rest means or how to set it to that.
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Did my 15 degrees illustrated on the photo look okay?
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All the link stuff was done at a shop so I don’t actually know how to use any of the software. I do have the link pc installed on my laptop but I don’t know how to navigate it. If you have time to inform me that would be very much appreciated! I sent my tuner a text to see if he can inform me where the timing was set before.
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For step #2 I don’t think I have a bypass screw on my throttle body. Here are more images of my throttle body in case I missed it. I do have an AAC valve. I turned the screw slightly counter-clockwise but I didn’t notice a difference. I didn’t move it much as I wasn’t sure about the timing and want to make sure the timing is correct before moving on.
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I have done step 1. I set the timing to 15 degrees from BTDC. I followed this diagram and set my mark on the forth for 15 degrees. It was slightly off when i started but not much. Did I do it correctly? The car still idled poorly. I accidentally moved the CAS too much to some direction and engine was idling fine. However, I want to check if I did the timing correctly based on my pictures. Thank you!
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Awesome! That seems simple. Should I turn left or right? Also, does your purple connector rotate 360 degrees?
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Just to check this off with you guys, I unplugged the connectors on my idle air control and just inspected the connections and the purple connector circled can be turned 360 degrees on mine. Does that mean it’s broken or is it fine?
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I have not, Im also unsure how to do that. Would you mind letting me know how? I’m getting a lot of air through the valve cover filters. The inlet temp sensor I have never used. I don’t even have a plug for it
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Nothing changed. Other than the new spark plugs and o2 sensor. I did misguide the engine as I was putting it in the car and accidentally bent the cruise-control butterfly on the throttle body. But I just bent it back to straight. I don’t actually use that butterfly so I didn’t matter to me. Could have caused the throttle body to adjust wrong?
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Hello Duncan, I was planning on running a catch can after the car was assembled. I currently run my engine on a stand-alone ECU (Link) so I don’t have an AFM. I have checked vacuum lines on the intake manifold and nothing leaks. The only air escaping I can hear is from my valve cover filters. I’m unsure what an FFP is but I have attached a picture of my throttle body. It does have an idle bolt that can be manually adjusted. I will verify timing, however, this is a step I haven’t done in awhile, could you perhaps write a procedure? I can always look online as well. I’ve never had issues with my RB so this is a new thing for me, I apologize if I seem a little challenged.
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I did an RB26 valve cover conversion on my RB25 so I deleted stock PCV. I would I go about checking? I was thinking my throttle body could be leaking or my idle motor?
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That is funny! I’m thinking I will check base timing, But I did discover a significant amount of air leaving the valve cover atmospheric vents from doing a air leak test, is that normal?
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Update #1 I have gone through the vacuum line and they’re all connected and secured. I ran another air leak test for peace of mind and I noticed like a whistle. The whistle was coming from my atmospheric valve cover vents. Should a significant amount of air be leaving through the vents from pressuring the intercooler system?
