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Eric0

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Everything posted by Eric0

  1. Eric0
    Yeeeeah, I had to run that gap through my tuner twice because it is essentially nothing. Lol. But the car was making 450hp no issues. I’ll double check my vacuums.
  2. Eric0
    Hello! I used to drive my RB for about a year without issues but i accidentally dropped a jack on my pulley pretty hard sooo a rebuilt had to occur. Today I finished her up, threw it back in the car, did all the wiring, and plumbing. I verified for any type of leaks (air included) and it all checks out. I primed the engine until it read about 12PSI oil and started her up. The car started immediately but dropped RPM quickly and began to idle at around 300-500RPM. Fuel pressure 42PSI Oil pressure 21-25 coilpacks are 6 months old I also bought: •New wideband sensor •New O2 sensor •New Spark plugs (gapped are .02 like tuner suggested a year ago) What else could be causing this issue? Could it be the camshaft positioning sensor?
  3. Eric0
    I decided to remove the engine and inspect the crank, bearing, and all that good stuff just to be sure. I’ll update this forum once I have more information about the damage or no damage.
  4. Eric0
    I revved up my engine and the steering wheel doesn’t wobble at 1500+ just vibrates the same as if it was idling. On the shift knob, there’s more vibration there when the car is revved up but that might just be normal for my car.
  5. Eric0
    I went out on a drive and I feel the steering wheel shaking more than before the incident after 60mph. It could be my rotors.
  6. Eric0
    I could’ve easily misread. Sorry if I said something dumb!
  7. Eric0
    That’s fair, I’m probably just being too paranoid.
  8. Eric0
    Well, the radiator has a huge dent on the bottom where most of the weight went. Plus, my radiator has metal brackets at the top bolted to the chasis to keep it from moving so that also took some weight. I read online that 3rd gear carries the most load and if the hormonic balancer is bad then that’s when I would experience some symptoms buuuut everything seems fine. But yes, I suppose time will tell if something internally went wrong. I freakin hope not, I just rebuilt it! Yikes!
  9. Eric0
    Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  10. Eric0
    I tried a combination of the methods mentioned above and within attempting these, I discovered the main battery charge wire off the alternator and into the dashboard had ripped and grounded with the metal and shorted out a bit. My battery is in the trunk for a clean engine bay. Well, I replaced the wire, insulated it, cleaned all my grounds, and now the alternator is charging! I just needed to get under my dash to discover burnt wires. That was a whole parade for me! Thank you all for your kind help!
  11. Eric0
  12. Eric0
    I’m going through the dash board wires and I found the red/white wire at 8.88V on the cluster plug. I believe it’s the correct wire. The red/white wire on the alternator plug is 9.88V. Well, I don’t have a dash light or anything going to that wire. I have aftermarket gauges. On the diagram I made back in 2016 indicated the wire as “battery charger.” I never actually drove the car with the new gauge setup until now but I’ve been driving the car for months until just recently the yellow top battery i purchased 8 or so months ago has been dying more and more.
  13. Eric0
    Here is an image of the back of my alternator if that helps.
  14. Eric0
    I ran some measurements and the exciter wire and this is what I got. When the car is off: Big wire: 12:55v Red/white(exciter): 0v When car is on Big wire: 11.62v Red/white(exciter): 9.83v This is what the forum through the link above said about the exciter wire: ”the larger one in the plug goes to pos 12 v, this one i'd add a fuse.The smaller wire (white/red) goes to the change bulb wire in the guage cluster. It is the exciter wire if you don't hook this up you will need to add a resister to drop the voltage going to the alternator to less than 6 volts. if you power this wire at 6 volts your alt will charge at 15 volts. also if you just plain dont hook this wire up, your alt will not charge.” I’m getting 0v on the exciter when the car is off but then I get 9.83 volts when the car is on. Could that cause the alternator to not charge since the other forum says it should be 6v? They mention adding a 600ohm resistor to drop voltage, could this fix the problem?
  15. Eric0
    Hello Kinkstaah, Yes, it is a 240sx. Awesome, I found the red/white wire on the alternator plug. I’ll check over the wiring for the exciter wire and report back. Thank you!
  16. Eric0
    Excuse me for my lack of knowledge, but where is the trigger wire located? How do I test it? I tested the plug to the alternator and while the car is on, the big wire receives 11.8v and the red/white wire I don’t recall.
  17. Eric0
    I have an EverStart yellow top battery that was purchased last year in August. It hasn’t been a year yet and currently sits at 12.43v. I also followed this video to test if the alternator is working properly and everything checks out except when I measure for voltage drop on the positive side of the battery, instead of getting something below 0.3V I get 9.47V. Also, the battery does not jump to 14v+ when the car is on. link: Now I’m unsure what to could be since the 75AMP fuse has 11.8v on top and 0.01v on the bottom and the 75Amp fuse isn’t blown.
  18. Eric0
    Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  19. Eric0
    Hello guys, I’m contemplating to convert my RWD 425hp RB25DET in my 240sx to an AWD. I hear all I need is the AWD transmission and AWD oil pan. Well, plus the hubs and axles, and probably oil pan adapter plate. But is it possible and what are all the parts I would need? It doesn’t sound hard to do. I’m contemplating this conversion for safer all year driving, faster track time/ acceleration. Better performance. Could I just change my tire setup and increase HP to achieve close AWD performance instead?
  20. Eric0
    Not only did I snot this once, by twice just to make sure :) i replaced and rerouted the line. It was leaking on the hot exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold was installed with putty. It is all good now! Thanks!
  21. Eric0
    Yes, I understand. I’ll make sure to change that!
  22. Eric0
    Hello, I’ll reroute it to make sure. The coolant line doesn’t tough the exhaust manifold. The white substance does wipe away, some of it is harder to wipe (kind of crusty) but it does wipe away. I snorted it as well and it didn’t fee like the usual cocaine... hah
  23. Eric0
    The hose you see there is my coolant hose. I hate that it touches my manifold buuuut it’s pretty back there. Could it be a coolant leak?
  24. Eric0
    Hello! Nothing is wrong with my car, all gauges read correctly, the car fees responsive, and it overall is functional and great. However, with the cold temperatures, I noticed there is smoke coming out of my hood (the hood is vented) but I thought it must’ve been my valve cover filters that are venting to the atmosphere. I checked and to my surprise I found a whole substance on the exhaust manifold and turbo flange. I’m guessing it might be a leak? What do you guys think?
  25. Eric0
    I hace checked the ohm and it’s not reading anything. Where I love to get a new sending unit it’s $500 USD so I was wondering if there’s a part I could replace on the unit to make it read the correct ohms again?
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