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Eric0

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Everything posted by Eric0

  1. Hello! I cleaned it out with a cotton tip to hopefully get a better reading but the gauge still only reads from the range of full to 3/4. The board looks great, nothing looks physically broken, so I’m thinking the board doesn’t work electrically?
  2. Hello guys! This week’s car problem isssssssss the fuel gauge is reading incorrect fuel level (always at full or close to full) I have an RB25DET wired to a S13 hatchback fuel sending unit. I have double checked that the fuel gauge is grounded properly and connected correctly. So, next step was to check the fuel sending unit which I found is reading 0-2 ohm in both fuel and empty. So! That means it is reading the incorrect resistance. Is there a way I could fix this without buying a whole new sending unit, perhaps a resistor? Thank you all!
  3. Hey guys! I hope you’re all doing well. Just a quick update. I ordered coilpacks and learned that the s1 has internally built in ignitors and s2 doesn’t. I didn’t know that after I purchased the coilpacks so the attached image are the ones I ordered. Are they looking like the right ones? They are on back-order and won’t be shipped till 5-7 more days, unfortunately. But perhaps fortunately if they’re the wrong ones for my engine. My CAS was just painted, I read online that’s a good indication that it’s a series 1, plus I only have the coilpacks harness without the rear box usually found in series 2. Thank you!
  4. Also, this image wasn’t the end of the tune. The base tune stopped at 300hp flat.
  5. The attached image is the base tune i drove on to break the engine in. The car drive perfectly without issues. But I didn’t capture the final tune to show you.
  6. Yes, my fuel injectors are new new. I suggested I gap my plugs at .032 and my tuner said he prefers .02 with his tune. My ecu is stand-alone so he will have access to the AFR I believe. It can be wirelessly tuned so by “verifying” I mean he can access my ecu’s memory and check if everything is looking good. The car had been on the dyno and he said it was good but now that this is happening he’ll wirelessly remote the ecu after I install new coils and plugs to .02 (he insist on it).
  7. The fuel pump is a 550 walbro and it is brand new as well. I’m not sure what an FPR is, could you inform me? Everything on the car is brand new, even the ECU.
  8. The car was on the dyno but is now home. It drove home fine but it hiccuped on high rpm so I thought spark plugs. Once they were changed, it did the same and backfired. I’m still waiting for him to verify my tune.
  9. I’m running deatschwerks 740cc fuel injectors. Should I be driving the car at all? I’ve been staying out of boost.
  10. I purchased the coil packs, they were $485 USD! Ouch! I’m running a link (AEM) ecu so my tuner can tune the car wirelessly without it being there. I shot him a text earlier today so I’m waiting for him to get back at me. Unfortunately, I don’t have any dyno sheets. If the car keeps running like hell after the new coil packs, new spark plugs at .02, and after my tuner verifies my numbers look okay, I think my problem will lay something in the fuel system like a fuel controller or something, right?
  11. Idle is currently 13.6 and load is 14-15. The spark plugs I’m running are NGK 4644. My technician recommended .023 and my tuner .02. I’m running stock coils but will soon install the splitfire. Do you think that will fix my air/fuel and high RPM backfire? My tuner will verify the tune tomorrow, hopefully.
  12. It’s making 425ho. Since everyone is telling me to change the coils then it has to mean something! Okay, I’ll give that a shot and check in with you guys again! Thank you all! Eric
  13. I’m running 19psi of boost at the moment with stock rb25det coils.
  14. I’m running stock rb25det coils. They need to be more powerful? It was running fine with them on the dyno. My fuel/air on idle is 13.7 and under load it’s 14-15psi
  15. Hello guys, first of all, thank you for stopping by and giving this a view! Okay so, the car ran perfectly after the tune but about 3 days later under full throttle, when it reaches about 6-8k it will start to backfiire about 2-4 pops. Things I've done to try to fix the problem: Changed spark plugs and gaped to the tuners specification of .02 Changed fuel filter Things the car has done to it that relates: 550 Walbro (tuned with the car) Fuel pressure regulator When I changed the spark plugs they all looked exactly the same, which makes me believe that the coils are working fine. But the plugs did look fouled as shown in the picture. I also attached an image showing my gap that was perfectly at .02 without damaging the tip. My fuel pressure is about 38psi on idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
  16. Does anyone have an RB25DET series 1 or series 2 head in good condition for sale? Thank you
  17. How much would the compression increase? Enough for a thicker head gasket to lower it adequately? Is it worth going the neo route?
  18. Hey everyone, I recently discovered that my camshaft had been over tighten when installing the head back on my motor. This caused the camshaft to bind and SNAP. Anyway, so now the front cam cradle is roughly .003in lower than the rest of the head after machining the scratches. So now I need a new head, as I looked online, I seemed to find a lot of RB25DET Neo heads but no series 1 or series 2 heads. Is it possible to switch everything over to the neo head and bolt it up to a series 1 block? If not, does anyone have a good condition series 1 or 2 head for sale? Thank you!
  19. The gtx3076r is a T3 .82. How will I have to modify the downpipe to match the v band? Do I need new gasket rings, inlets, outlets, any other connections?
  20. Need help installing a gtx3076r to my rb25det I have a stock turbo setup on my RB25DET and received my first turbo replacement today, the gtx3076r. I wanted to know what parts I need to complete the installation, thanks!
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