Happymeal

I think the SAFC II model has the feature to adjust the fuelling mix as it returns to idle. This is to stop the overfueling that happens and stablize the idle. The earlier editions didn't have this feature. It must have been a feature added purely for the addition of externally venting BOV's.

Could you furnish me a price on a parcel cover please. this is the pull over one right? Mine was imported without it, as so many seem to be (well over here in NZ anyway) Guessing I'm going to have to drop my trousers and grab my ankles (sorry for that vision people - right before a weekend too!) price wise, but I'm hoping to be pleasantly surprised.

obviously a suitable solution would be to take the rear bottom spoiler off and give it to me. I don't have one on my ride. This will mean that you will not damage it when going off road, safe in the knowledge it is being looked after. id do this for you, but only cause it's you I'm not sure there really is a good answer to this, you'll really just have to chose the terrain you drive on, and avoid the big pot holes or ridges in the embankments. You don't want to take the bits off each time you go for a drive, or else you'll be driving around without bumpers etc a good portion of the time. Maybe to avoid some stone chips you could get colour coded vinyl stickers made up for the leading edges of the spoilers etc. Maybe some stuff like clear durseal from a stationery place as well, but do some checking on that, I don't know how the paint under it would like it if you keep replacing the stuff. Just some thoughts.

If you cut the speed sensor wire though, doesn't it effect the Hicas, which has some component that is speed sensitive? There are devices out there that will alter the speed cut signal. Apexi RSM will do it, orange or blue screen versions. So second hand they wouldn't cost a lot, brand new they are only $450 NZ. This allows you to change or turn off your rev limiter, and change or turn off your speed cut. I got rid of my speed cut but slightly lowered my rev limit to further protect my engine just in case. Cool gadget, has the addedfeatures if you go that way, or timing stats, (and on the blue screen versions) the added G sensor allows you to measure the cornering G's your car goes through. If you do intend to cut the wire 53, check, do lots of homework, and check again. LAst thing you want is the rear of your car to be activating the hicas randomly while pulling in exess of 190km/h.

*im using my flatmates log in here* This is my laurel so far in the build stage Rb20det, manual, 5 stud conversion, rb25det turbo, 550cc injectors, fmic, 3" front pipe, Trust 3 5/8" exhaust, 500hp fuel pump, Link ecu, VL radiator.

that rear hatch is definitely a winner! Keep showing it off at our club meets. the rear handles are also a definite wow factor as well. People keep asking me what these are for. I tell them to pull them and they all think it's the coolest thing. I like these cars!

Hey FaithStalker! talked to you over on sdu. Glad you found your way over here. Really good resource this. -Meal

You have it bang on the money SydneyKid. baffling isn't it, defies logic almost! I only undertook the last step in that sequence, the step involved with changing the strut to the KYB edition. Spring was the same one used with each strut (old factory and new KYB). Hitting the stop. Have now changed the bump stop over to a version that is slightly shorter and I have travel back, but not a lot. Still hits bump stops on occasion, but better. Think I should really shop for springs, GTR33 lowering ones. For all I know the springs in there have been chosen by some backyard Japanese cowboy for the Stagea task at hand and are not really up to the mark. replacing with GTR33 lowering springs may in fact increase the ride height in the shock, and free up some more travel. Car is a really nice height, yet still very legal. Wouldn't want to go too much higher, but I'm also not about to sacrifice my cars ride comfort and safety, to have it look too low. Bit frustrated that no one I can find to talk to has definite answers to give me so almost everything we try is hit and miss or experimental. A couple of suppliers keep trying to get me into coilovers, which I have been tempted by, due to a really attractive price deal/break. But a mate of mine has shone the torch of reality on the subject for me, and I really would not use a coilover to it's full advantage for the sort of use my car would be subjected too. It's not doing track time, or heavy fast road driving. The suspension would be setup once and stay setup. having the adjustiblity for the cost involved doesn't really suit me. So I think getting the right shock/spring setup right suits me better. Gained heaps of information from here though, which has helped in my plight beyond measure. It's been easier to weed out the suppliers who really were out of their depth in regard to Stagea's due to their lack of knowledge, from the ones who were on the right track. The crowd I got my KYB's from have been exceptiionally helpful, and really good. Next question: GTR R33 springs, have heard people drop their cars on GTR super lows. How many differnt height settings are available for the GTR's standard, low and super low? probably keen on a low, rather than super low.

thanks would aprecaite that. If anyone finds out required spring rates looks like afew of us are keen for the information I'm confused though how my old factory tired shocks didn't seem to have the problem as severe as the replacement KYB's. They have confirmed that the factory and R33 GTR ones are identical lengths in every aspect though, so it's rulling out a difference in the body of the shock. Springs are my next port of call, seeing as I really do not know the history of the chosen springs, (Blue coloured with Type R written on them) all I know is they are from Japan. For all I know they came off a Toyota Starlet

I've got a 1996 Stagea RS4 myself. Been lowered on springs alone in Japan (factory shocks). Front shocks were a tad weak so I opted to replace them for KYB NewSR replacements, suitable for the R33 GTR as stated in the thread. The suspension place also came to the conclusion they were the recommended shock for the Stagea RS4 front. Sweet as, got em bolted in there, used the original bump stops, and rubber boot (they were in good nick) Installed them and find now the car is hitting the bumpstops a LOT! Anyone else replace the fronts with R33 ones using factory bumpstops and having same grief? Suspension place is looking into it for me, left them the factory one out of the car this morning to take measurements from and compare. Hope it can get sorted or else I'm going to go back to the factory shocks for now, even though they are tired as they don't hit the stops (well not as noticeably as the new ones do). Any thoughts for a newby to the stagea?