thebe

Yeah I've heard there might be some differences but havent been able to find any exact info. Looking to buy a second hand gearbox for my ecr33 and would prefer a s2 box due to cheaper and easier to find rebuild kits and if they have a bit better internals. Problem is, sellers dont usually know what series their box is

So you cant tell the difference between s1 and s2 box by looking at the outside?

On my ecr33 my pressure gauge was lazy and sometimes not reacting to revs or moving at all. I removed the sender, cleaned and fitted again (to different a block) and now it reads very close to my new defi gauge. Wouldnt count on it on a tuned engine (hence why I bought the defi) but seems I extended its life a bit

Yes! Good catch[emoji106]

The hicas joint bushes are a real pain in the ass to get out. Without the right tools... I spent hours trying to hack and smash them out. Bought a universal g-press from eBay (which fit the hub perfectly btw!) but even with a ~meter lever the bushes wouldnt come out. Said screw it and took my bolt gun and gave it the beats. Worked like a charm maybe 1 hour later the car was back on its wheels. Definately recommend buying such a tool if you dont have one. Remember to cut the circlip with a grinder before you use th press.

With good enough turbo and supporting mods you dont need them. On a high powered engine the oem ones are the weak-link anyway so better get rid of them straight away[emoji85]

Sure it might be good for them. However most oem manifolds are still rocking good after 25 years so dont think coating them is gonna do much. And even if it did, you could just buy of new good condition second hand one for less than the coating costs. Id rather use that 200$ on a better spec turbo.

I installed a Driftworks hicas Eliminator kit and im happy with it.

Mine were so worn I could wiggle the hicas rods by hand. Guess you could lift the back wheel(s) up and try and move them to see if there's play somewhere

I sold my normal rb25det manifold for 20€ here in Finland. I assume you can get a good condition used one for similar price elsewhere too as people are going top Mount all the time and just want to get rid of the oem stuff. I wouldnt bother with coating. Save the money for something else

At that power goal and a high-flow Id go stock too. A top mount setup will cost more and be more work. If you want more power in the future (like most of us do after a while ) you can then sell the highflow and go top mount

Hicas rod ends worn? On my r33 they were totally worn out and hitting a bump at 100kmh or so was terrifying

A bit late to reply but my rb25/30 fitted to my r33 gtst with no modification to the rb25det mounts at all. No fouling on hood and even fitted a strut brace.

You could ask kinugawa themselves. As journal bearing turbo I would guess no for additional restrictor

You could ask Sinco if they have something like this. Bought a manifold for my rb25/30 with hx40 holset and they fit very nicely. Good pricing too

+ boost controller (if your ecu doesnt have one) + Exhaust includes new downpipe and possibly whole New exhaust + New intercooler piping + fuel pump wiring +tune + New turbo feed/return limes + clutch +possibly New exhaust manifold studs (mine snapped when I removed the OEM manifold from s1 rb25det). +Depending on boost/ power levels you plan to run possibly New head gasket and head bolts/studs. Maybe even forged internals depending on your budget/engine condition/how much you want to push it. And ofcourse good manifold and wg. Lots of small things (like manifold studs etc) that might need changing can add quite a lot to the cost

Good stuff. Sorry for hi-jacking the thread a bit but can you guys recommend valve springs? Heard supertech are good, are singles enough or should you get dual springs while at it? Retainers aswell or are springs enough? In my case running rb30 (not forged) so revving only 6800 atm. Looking for ~500-550 hp, now at 440hp and 23psi (holset he351) with suspected leaking standard bov

Out of curiosity, how do you notice valve float on dyno? Stock springs here running 23psi

I bought an act 6 Puck with sprung centre and extreme pressure plate. Very happy with it. Drives nicely. Not as nice to drive as Stock but its definately Streetable and should hold lots of power/torque

Those were a real pain in the ass to get off of my r33 gtst. I used a Y fork and a hammer to get the arm off. Then dremel to cut the lip of the bushing. Tried heat and hammer many times but didnt do shit. Then bought a g-press thingie from eBay (70€ or so with postage to Finland) but didnt move even with a big ass lever... Then attached a bolt gun to the g press and after hitting it a while with the gun it gave up and got them off! Used the same g press-thingie to fit new bushings for the hicas delete kit. I think the bolt gun + g press + heat is the only way to do it with the hub still in car. Even with the bolt gun it took a real hammering before they came off. I strongly suggest getting those before you dive in. Attached a few pics I found from my old phone, hope they are usefull.

I t'd it into the turbo drain. No problems @ dyno or on the road so far.

Sweet thanks!

Hey Got my 2,5year build up and running finally! Got a dyno tune set to next monday. I started to wonder if I can trust my dipstick? Rb30 block 25det oil pan (original size, baffled though) 25det tube and dipstick I think it should read correctly because the oil pan, tube and stick are from the same engine but just want to be sure. I have fitted a ~30row oil cooler with an10 lines so that alone increases my oil capacity, but dunno how much so cant really use the capacity as a guide either Thanks everyone -teemu

Nope its journal bearing with an3 feed line without a restrictor. The return just meets the turbos demands. Thanks for the tip with the sump. Its starting to sound like the best option

After thinking about it for a few moments I think these are my options: 1. Tee the head drain to the turbo oil return. Worried if the factory sized drain would be enough for my hx40 AND the head return though... 2. Drill and tap a thread to the block. How to prevent metal pieces from getting inside the engine though? 3. Take the sump out and drill and weld a fitting for the drain. I was hoping to start my car next weekend for the first time in 2,5 years but dont really want to take shortcuts now that will haunt me in the future. Which would you recommend doing, keeping in mind the engine is in the car? I'm kinda leaning towards 3. If I take the exhaust off and lift the engine as much as I can without disconnecting the gearbox can I get the sump (rb25 oem sized sump) out and back in? That way I could clean the sump and no metal bits would get inside the engine. When I do get the Engine running I will run it on idle to normal temp and then do my first oil change if that changes anything. Other ideas? Thanks