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Yeah thats what I figured. Damn just finished my top Mount turbo oil lines yesterday:D any other ideas on what to do besides teeing to turbo drain?

Hey all Finishing up my rb30/25det build and realized my rb30 doesnt have a thread for this hard line from the head. The engine is in with pretty much every other line and stuff bolted to it (pic from google) so wouldnt really care to take it out and strip apart to tap a hole... Added a pic of my block when it was on a stand, feeling quite stupid What is this line for and is it absolutely needed? Thanks all

And a sandwich plate is quite easy to install aswell. When my engine was out I welded a bung to my oil pan for the temp sensor. Used my sandwich plate for vct feed and oil pressure sensor

Cant see any info on grounding on plx instructions. So I'll just connect the narrowband feed from plx to pin 29. Thanks all!

Sweet, thanks! So I can simply cut and solder the pin 29s wire to the plx output? Just one wire? And I can leave the two other wires on the o2 plug untouched?

Cool thanks! Can you help me on how to wire it in?

The whole engine is new (bigger displacement, injectors, turbo, MAF etc) so I'll get it properly tuned anyway. Could the New sensor still be an improvement? Gonna make the exhaust on thursday so it'll be easy to set up. Microg how did you wire yours? Tried to google for a few hours but couldnt find anything. On my o2 sensor loom (in the engine bay) I have a 3 wire oval connector with blue, Brown and a wire with a white stripe on it.

Hello. I have an ecr33 skyline (rb30/25det) and going to use Nistune ecu. I have a plx afr gauge (dm-6) and it has a narrowband output so I'm wondering it it'd be worth it to use that signal for ecu? The reason i'm wondering is the plx afm is brand new and the cars o2 sensor is original (now 23 years old). I've heard that people changing o2 sensors get better fuel consumption etc so could the plx result in more accurate readings? I'm having a new downpipe/exhaust made up regardless so that doesnt matter. Dont really want to buy a new o2 sensor for ecu if I can simply use the plx for that aswell. Thanks for any help!

Afaik the head "drain" works mostly as a sump breather. I dont think its needed if you fit proper sump breathers (and rocker cover breather setup).

Keep in mind you will also need to upgrade your fueling and your engines breathing when slapping a bigger turbo to rb25det (if you want more power). Bigger injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, intercooler & piping and so on. Along with the turbo, clutch and ecu/map. And a map is the last thing after you have everything else installed

Fouls, really? Damn. I was told my pan would work and havent actually measured it, damn. Havent really seen any writings on the interwebs of it fouling either, guess I have some measuring to do. If you could get some pics that's be amazing! Thanks mate!

http://www.rhdjapan.com/tomei-oil-pan-baffle-plate-universal-type.html Fixed the hotlink. Stupid phone messed it up. If anyone has any ideas on how to do these baffles it'd be greatly appreciated. Or perhaps pics or something about how people have done baffles on rb25det? Havent been able to find any really. Thanks

Hi and thanks for the reply. I have this set: http://www.rhdjapan.com/tomei-oil-pan-baffle-plate-universal-type.html/URL] I guess I'll just have to try how using only two plates will work. The thing Im worried about using only two plates is that not enough oil will get to the pickup. Only 4 doors and in 2 directions where the oil can enter the box...

Hello all from Finland! First of all an awesome thread! I've read the whole thing and couldn't find an answer to my problem. I'm building rb30/25 with s1 head and going to use the rb25 oil pan aswell. I have a set of universal tomei baffle plates with trap doors. How should I fit them to get the most out of them? Gonna aim for ~500hp (refreshed/balanced stock bottom) and going to use the car (r33) mostly on street with an occasional drag/track day. I've been thinking about this kind of setup: - 25 row oil cooler with mocal thermostatic plate (an10 lines) -rb25 oil pump with reimax gears, external vct feed - an12 valve cover breathers to a atmo vented catch can. - two an10 (or an12) sized oil pan lines to a different atmo vented catch can (one line top of can, other to the bottom). Fitted to sump as high as possible to the inlet side. Now I was told as the car is mostly a streeter I dont really need an extended oil pan. So I was wondering what would be the best way to install the baffle plates for little extra peace of mind? Dont think I can fit all 4 of them to the stock pan so how would using 2 work out? Do you think something like this would help keeping oil at pickup? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks