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Sack87

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Everything posted by Sack87

  1. Sack87
    Sent the block and heads out to get skimmed by Danny at Performance Modifications, who do stellar work as always. The only thing I found with the motor I tore down was a possible blown head gasket, no damage to the bores, crank, rods and normal wear on the bearings. What a score! Whilst waiting for the machining to be done I did a headlight restore as they had the classic JDM yellow to them. (Restored on the left and old on the right)I removed the whole front end then dropped the front subframe, engine and gearbox down as a whole. First time I've done it like this and makes it's so much easier to access everything on install.Ripped a whole bunch of shit off and confirmed the worst. So much blowby that the plumb back BOV is filling the turbo outlet pipe and the turbo also has blown the turbine seal as it has oil residue in there.But on a side note I had a score with the subframe bushes being Superpro items!
  2. Sack87
  3. Sack87
    Started work on the harness to relocate some things and re sleeve it all. All marked out on a board so I know how long each connector sub harness needs to be and when to tee off. The he bits in red are what is getting relocated.
  4. Sack87
    Swapped motor for a Volkswagen V5... ?
  5. Sack87
    More concerned about the 20mm spacers I'm running as they stand out like dogs balls
  6. Sack87
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253742815637
  7. Sack87
    Nope but they've got a complete one for $1200. They're on ebay
  8. Sack87
    Bought another engine for $200 to rebuild it. So far it looks like I scored a deal with it only having a blown head gasket.
  9. Sack87
    And so it begins...
  10. Sack87
    Mine does this constantly mate. Even with a full tank my gauge sits about 1/8th from full. I generally get about 100km out of the last 1/4 of a tank.
  11. Sack87
    Not needed as I only wanted the surround for double din. No scratches or cracks on it. Not too sure if the boost and torque gauges work as my car is an AR-X, but the voltage and illumination works. $40 posted Australia wide. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  12. Sack87
    Have some parts starting to roll in and getting fitted up. RDA R34 GTT front slotted and dimpled rotors with RDA Extreme pads, 20mm wheel spacers and some genuine D1 Spec wheel nuts. Also a genuine NIsmo radiator cap Fitted all the brakes and stuff last night and now the wheels sit flush with the edge of the guard. Still at standard height but not for too much longer . . .
  13. Sack87
    Can you upload this again please
  14. Sack87
    I will be in the same boat very soon
  15. Sack87
    How flexible is the one attached to the intake? It will sit different on mine as I have a custom intake and it's in a different spot. (Closer up to the boost solenoid)
  16. Sack87
    Breathing is better without it plus it's the only way you can run a hose from that location without it hitting the intake or kinking.
  17. Sack87
    I got my hose fittings yesterday and fitted the catch can. I'm not 100% sure I like this location now as the lines are just clearing the bonnet as they are sitting on top of the overflow bottle. PCV delete and hose fitting just have enough room with a 3" intake I will need to beef up the lid bracket and slightly adjust it as it snapped when moving it around. You can also just see the breather hidden away under the guard. I will move this too as it fouls on the guard liner.
  18. Sack87
    I plan on making some of this to sell in the future but I want to run it on my car for a bit to see what works and what doesn't. I may make up a different catch can setup that uses easier hose routing but it means you can't run the turtle shell.
  19. Sack87
    And that's a wrap. All gone now
  20. Sack87
    Knocked up a cooling mod but mine uses an SOS fitting as the bleed point. If your're familiar with Caterpillar mining equipment then you'll know why I chose this! To go along with that I bought a generic breather tank setup that will most likely go above the passenger cam cover. This is the highest point in the engine bay, has the most room and is easier to tap into the bottom rad hose. After doing the rear rotors I saw that the subframe was cracked on both sides pretty badly, also another reason why I bought the TIG welder. I made up a cardboard template and the aluminium I transfer that to will get welded in for more strength. And most recently I had a knock senor code throw up after handling the harness. Found this just hanging out in the valley. Plan is to buy another harness and re plug the whole thing as most of the connectors are breaking apart or already broken.
  21. Sack87
    So this is what I have in the works currently and I just tick along with them. Designed and 3D printed a pistol grip style shifter. Unlike the generic ones you can buy, this one slides on like the factory one and uses the circlip to hold it on snug. The cover at the base fits like a glove but I was limited to how much radius I could put on the shifter to match the cover. I finalised the design of my 3D printed catch can so just waiting on fittings to come so I can hook it all up and test out how well the ABS holds up to heat and fumes. The fitting by itself replaces the factory PCV and I had to get that from the states. The catch can is fully baffled inside and just requires some steel wool and the other baffle to be fitted.The top had to be removable as you can't print a baffle inside and object and know if it has printed properly. If the 3D printed one doesn't work, then I have all the individual pieces cut up ready to be fabbed up. This will be my first TIG welding project since buying one as I have only used MIG. To get the fumes to the catch can location I made up a steel hard line that goes from the passenger cam cover, along the fuel rail and follows behind the timing cover.
  22. Sack87
    Any takers on the last set?
  23. Sack87
    Thanks mate. I recently bought a TIG welder so I can do aluminium work but mostly to fix up my rear subframe as it's cracked. I've got a few things in the works including building a new engine soon as the current one is cactus. Just trying to keep this one going until the other engine is ready
  24. Sack87
    I've had no issues at all with my setup and haven''t had it fuel cut once.
  25. Sack87
    Couldn't be bothered searching to see if this is known; VQ35 starter motor is a direct replacement for VQ25DET. I have just fitted one after mine cooked itself. Bolts straight in with no modifications at all and no clearance issues. They share the same solenoid as well.
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