AgentR31

stupid V8 lovers

wow i thought i was the only person like that, my parents hate my mats takeing off like wankers, and so do i now, if they do it at my house i go and leave a black line out the front of theirs at one stage my house looked like willowbank. also on an unrelated note the neibours hate the spool noise and pschhhhh noise a stock rb20 makes LOL

because you have worked 8 hours already and the last break was 3 hours before

heres the stuff you buy and how to cut the tip so it goes on nice and thick, also turps removes it trust me i have worked with this stuff lots of times the stuff you need to buy from super cheap how to cut the nozzle

my dads r34 got 186.9 rwhp its a completly stock 2000 auto 4 door GTT

thats because it is a ceffy, an A32 (called maxima here) to be exact and they made another one after the A33 (also called maxima here )

what he needs to do is buy a to4 LOL or something like that and give me his turbo for my silvertop rb20

my father has an R34 (auto 4 door) and he reckons that the turbo is a steel wheel type hers what i am intersted in, is it true. if so i belive it would be a good upgrade turbo for my car, a silver top rb20 in my r31 can any one please tell me if the r34 turbos are a steel wheel type and if some one has it handy the numbers on the turbo, so i can see if dads 34 has a steel wheel turbo as he wants to put some more boost into it (hes not happy with 9 psi LOL) and yes i have done a search

the method above it pretty much how you do it but, undo the 19 mm (or is it 21?) and then when the nut comes off put it back on 3 turns and bash the steering wheel a bit with your fists around the edge, this losens it up quite a bit. then pull hard and it should pop off and hit the nut. thus preventing a face full of steering wheel and a broken nose.

lock your car?

here i fixed it up for you! (no im not haveing a stab at you) seriously DONT f**kING BOTHER, the bastards that make that shit need their heads kicked in for selling crap that does nothing. thats right IT DOES NOTHING. those things cant flow near enough air to make ent difference, infact your better off getting 10 computer fans and makeing a stack of them and using them in your intake, it will probably do better than the mentioned product

well what i am thinking is the bung for the ECU wiring is leaking if it is then its an easy fix jack the car up and place an axle stand under the car pull the left hand front wheel off pull the plastic gaurd off locate the ECU wiring which is up towards the fire wall and look at the bung and make sure it is seated in the fire wall properly if your not sure then grab a tube of skaflex and cover it up where the wiring goes into the bung and where the bung goes into the fire wall

go rb20det its a straight bolt up! the only wiring you have to do is temp sender, tacho, a plug on the passanger strut tower. then get an exhast piece made up that goes from teh turbo to the cat and get a mod plate also you dont have to do the brakes, but for your own good do it as the standards are not very good (i have no idea why nissan used them in the first place)

sorry as per usual when you buy a half cut it has no panels (well it has one but its dented) there myst be someone with a heater core thats broken or climate controll that doesnt work? or some one that needs a power steering pump

i have a r32 half cut with no engine but lots of nick naks theres no engine in it but the speedo cluster is there radiator ($50) and everything under the dash (sorry no switches) steering rack, power steering pump, air con condenser, aircon pump, pedals (manual pedals!!!!! great for a manual conversion) dash looms SMS or phone me on 0410 800 678

try a place called any jap spares on moonbi street brendale in qld when i got my r32 half cut im sure i saw a set there.

meh even if you filled up a whole tank just drive off boost and let the knock sensors do their job you wont kill it unless its pinging

usherly the tacho in r31s is pure crap mine says that the car idles at 1500 rpm and doesnt move till it gets to 2200 and you will find most r31s are like that (faulty tacho) *thanks nissan australia (actually VDO) for their bang up job at a speedo cluster*

its under the dash on the drivers side you take a clip out and its behind there

and another thing with japanses cars it not how many km's they have done, its how many hours they have been run for. look at the trims they are usually worn because they tend to sid in traffic for a long time and play with things (like power windows), the steering wheels are usually worn from people holding them while waiting and the ash trays are usually well used bacause they all seem to smoke over there

ohh i can see this working the convo would go something like this *phone rings in japan and person picks up* you - hi i bought you old skyline and i was wondering what you did to it japanese person - ching chang wahhh wong wick yumm bing you - umm do you speak english japanese person - chow wong woo wice *slams phone down* you - OMFG im an idiot they dont all speak english over there

its 206 at teh flywheel!!

meh kms dont matter *looks at speedo in my car sees330 000 then crys* no seriously when you buy a jap import they have almost always been wound back (and dont go and say no my 1989 r32 has genuinly only done 32000kms). if you buy it go and do a full service on it, that is change all fluids (should be done any way as you dont know how the car was treated) and all belts! i would be more worried about panel damage/dodgy repairs from previous crashes than kms on a car at the end of the day if you like the car buy it if not there is plenty of fish in the sea

right heres what is probably needed 1 diff (or diff gears depending if there is a difference in ratio) or you can change the gear on teh back of the speedo sensor 2 tail shaft 3 gear box (which you have) 4 cross member if there is a difference 5 clutch (may aswell go heavy duty here) 6 probably need fly wheel bolts because if its the same as an RB30 there is a difference 7 fly wheel (may aswell get this manceined and lightenend while you there) 8 throw out bearing 9 spigot bearing (to get the old one out for the torqe converter just drill 2 small holes next to each other and crush it in then remove it and fit the manual spiggot bearing) 10 clutch pedal 11 brake pedal 12 clutch master cylinder 13 lines from clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder 14 slave cylinder 15 the bit that moves the clutch (god dam memory i have forgotten the name of it) 16 gear leaver if its not in the box 17 the dust covers on the transmition tunnel for the selector to go through 18 the gear boot for inside teh car and the surround to replace the auto selector 19 some wire to wire up the reverse light and neutral swich and by pass the start relay (if its the same as my car which i would suspect it to be) 20 about 1 week end if you sort have got mechanical knowledge or if your dads a nissan mechanic 6 hours and that includes replacing the water pump sorry if i have forotten anything/added things that are different on an R34 to my car but most nissans are the same and pretty much all manual conversions are the same!

i looked into this for xenons to be leagal you need 1 automatocally ajusting headlights, so when you put a trailer on or people in the back the lights tilt down 2 headlight washer, you can install this your self 3 xenon type reflectors the reasons that R34's cant have xenons are the headlights are not auto ajusting ones ( they are manual from a swich inside) and there is no washer for them