Japtastic-UK

Didn't get a chance to get the BOV's off today, first on the list tomorrow, small improvemnt though, I spotted the standard boost pipe was in bad condition so changed it and the revs have dropped to 1150 getting there Oh and the throttle buterflies are perfect, I had them disconnected and there was no change in revs. Can any one explain how the hell to adjust the idle via the ECU I just can't work it out, loads of threads here and there asking about how to do it, but no one seems to know.

Update. Pretty sure the injectors are not the problem I had them out and they still nice and rubbery, coated them with vaselin any way and they seem to seat well with no change in revs when sprayed with carb cleaner, the pipe at the end of the plenum is definantly on and fine, the lumpy idle is now gone which is very good, just the high idle is the problem now, I could handle 1100 but I'm getting 1300-1400 I am missing the recirculation tube circled red. The part with the green arrow is open and can be see in the pic which is taken from the front of the car. The part with the blue arrow is blocked. Is this causing the high idle, what else could it be causing, why has it been done? Will be taking the BOV's off tomorrow to check for problems, the main question is, is it causing the high idle Sorry, lots of questions I know

Well I took the whole lot apart again and added some loctite copper gasket to every surface and my lumpy idle has gone still high idle though but no where near as high, it was 1900 now is it 13-1400. I have taken some pictures of the way the FMIC is plumbed in, could this be a factor in my high idle problems? Can any one explain why that pipe is open and the other smaller one is the engine bay blocked off? I have reattached the small pipe to the correct nipple circled with no change in idle, but when connected the bov makes a ticking noise when revved not sure if this is normal or not? Please some one explain I feel like I am almost there, just need a little help

Dont know if we get that purple wtuff over here, put in some 5-40 fully synth, seems to have quitened down the noisy tappetts

I have searched but it seems that every application is different so please recommend what oil I should be using for an R32 GTR with 90,000 miles, only mods are air filters and cat back exhaust. Thanks

Some progress today, I sprayed carb cleaner around the injectors and 2 of them are definantly leaking because once again the revs increased, still dont get why the revs are increasing and not dropping? either way this indicates they are leaking... so it looks like I did have 2 problems? still concerning that if I spray around the second and third set of throttle bodies that the revs also still increase? confusing to say the least. So next on the list is new injector seals. I have taken a pic of a pipe that has been blocked off, could this also be a problem?

Well this is not good I've just finished replacing the gaskets, job went really well, did everything to the book and she is still exactly the same I can't understand it, I'm honestly ready to give up, if I only knew wtf was going on here I'd able to fix it, I just can't work it out, help me please!

Ok, it runs rich at idle but lean at top end...

The car runs lean when this happens so is bad mmm kay!

It's a pain factor 9/10 my hands and wrists are in bits! It has taken me 3 hours today and bar 1 bolt it's off, so I should imagine another 3 and it will be back on, 6 hours labour in a garage round here would cost you $816 so well worth doing your self, it's not rocket science, at the end of the days it's just a few nuts and bolts, oh and the loss of some skin and back troubles

I sprayed around the plenum/throttle bodies and sure enough the rpm of the engine raised each time I sprayed the carb cleaner on them, so it has to be the gasket/warping. I would have thought the revs would drop though as my AAC screw was wound right in? I have started removing the plenum now, it's very nearley there just a couple of bolts that hold the clutch lines to it which are so hard to get to it's unbelievable!

I'd be doing the work my self so not worried about labour cost, more my lower back pain! Going to try spraying the gaskets today then off to get a cometic gasket and change if that's the case, cheers guys Will let you know how I get on...

Thanks for your input It's more the idle I'm worried about at the moment, but will check the dry joints in AFM and coilpacks.

Ok but could that really effect just the idle and top end and be perfect in between, surely if the coilpacks and AFM's were faulty it would be a problem through the rev range not just idle and top end? Some one has suggested an air leak at plenum, does that make sense?

My GTR is running slightly lumpy on idle, when driving it's fine and pulls well apart from a slight mis fire at the top end. Can any one suggest what this might be, I've tried cleaning the AFM's and cleaning the coil packs with the refurb guide, but no difference on either the lumpy idle or top end hesitation, are these connected? More concerned about the lumpy idle at the moment than the hesitation... On side note to try and adjust my high idle today I screwed the AAC screw in all the way but still the car idles about 1100rpm and I couldn't adjust this via the ECU screw either?? Another thing is that when bliping the throttle the car takes longer than I'd expect it to, to come back to it's base idle of 1100, it seems to hang around 1500 and very slowly back to 1100, the same when driving and coming to a stop pressing the clutch. Hope you can help chaps Cheers

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/clear-cam-cover and a hole cutter and bobs your uncle

Not mine but a hole cutter and a but of filing, seems easy enough

A LOT of people seem to forget that and turn their standard tubbie up to 0.85 in the false knowledge that if it blows it's only the turbo they have to replace.

Just to let you know changing the gearbox has fixed everything my god I'm glad, she feels perfect in every way now, pulls hard and fast and nice and free flowing Can you tell I'm happy

Any engine damage?

Pretty sure that will blow within a very short time 0.85 bar being the upper limit on stock turbo, so around 12 psi

I've always been led to belive the S1 turbo can take more safe boost with a metal wheel (0.85) where as the S1 with plastic can only take 0.8 safely?

Compression is good across the board, defianantly firing on all 6, it still pulls like a train but not like before, I'm in the middle of changing my gearbox and I'm hoping that will fix it because it was very screwed. I'mm hoping that the gearbox can cause this even with the clutch depressed?

is that like bobs your uncle thats a good idea, the only bastard is moving that gearbox in and out, heavy fooker!

That's definantly fine as I have just replaced the timing belt and tensioners, so it's all torqued up, the vibration was there before this btw, I changed that lot to see if the vibration would go away but it didn't. Thanks for the input anyway. Can harmonic balancers fail and cause this?