Japtastic-UK

You tightened that up without the spacer so the bolts for the cam pully grinded away at the CAS, if you look around that area you will see metal filings every where, you need to clean them all away. If you put it back on and look around the back you will see the 4 bolts I'm talking about.

I have a problem I hope some one can tell me what it is. The vibration starts at around 2500rpm, but could be there before but no noticable enough, doesn't matter weather the clutch is in or out, moving or stationary, it did happen after doing lots and lots of doughnuts with a diablo in a tunnel, this is when my gearbox failed as well, don't know if it's connected or coincidence? The vibration stays throughout the rev range and makes the car feel as if it doesn't want to accelerate rather than before it wanted to go. It was bouncing of the rev limiter quite a lot, I know it's bad but the tempatation was too much. I've heard oil pumps don't like this, but could that cause such a vibration? Cheers Stewart

I overlooked one small thing, how am I going to start it??

Sorry this is in the wrong section but I need an answer quickly. Can I start the car with out the gearbox and clutch attached? I need to eliminate something as the cause of my vibration. Just want to double check just in case it damages something?

Well it drives perfectly, just taken her out, noise seems to be getting quiter already? I have got a a slight bit of play in both my exhaust and intake pulleys though which I didnt notice before but I may just be being too fussy, are they supposed to be straight as a dye or is a small amount of play acceptable?

LOL you can keep the bloody ashes I used the technique in the FAQ's for tightening so yes I used the spring, it is really annoying I think I have it tensioned right, to be honest I wouldn't feel right losening it off as it seems right, not sure what to do

Ok it's seems odd that it's over tensioned as it has about 5mm play either side on the intake side and a very small amount, almost none on the exhaust side... Could it snap if over tensioned, although it has some play in it?

It's a genuine Nissan belt, I guess I'm going to have to remove the damn crank pulley again then I hope that fixes it, what are the consequences if an over tightened belt?

As the title suggests I have got a whining noise after doing a cam belt change, I've removed it and re installed a couple of times. I've also changed the tensioner and idler, all genuine parts. I've eliminated all the other belt driven parts by leaving them disconnected. Could the belt be too tight or is it something else? Cheers

managed to source a second hand head for £100 with valves so that saves me a lot of work and money looking at the possibilty that the piston doesn't need replacing as the damage is so minimal?

My worst fears confirmed... Question is can the head and piston head be repaired? Or do I need to find second hand ones? I'll be replacing with standard as the car will be sold as soon as it's repaired. There is no cyclinder damage as far as I can see.

Yeah the top part of the plenum was a bit of a bitch, saved a bit of weight though used one of those ratchet spanners which was a god send! I grinded down the wall of one of my 10mm spanners and that got the front 10mm out. The head is now moving and ready to come out but there are still some pipes under the plenum I have to get to, what a bastard of a job!

I actualy had them off anyway as I said in the first post Definantly worth it though as it made life a lot easier Thanks for the advice, I'll pop down to Halfords today and see if I can get anything to go round that nut, I'm not very hopefull though, lost a lot of skin taking the top of the that plenum off

Thanks for the replys guys, I am now at this stage (see pic) Got a few questions. 1) I am going to leave the exhaust manifold on but by the looks of it the turbo needs to be moved/twisted to make that possible, it doesn't look like that is possible unless I remove the 3 oil feeds, is that correct? 2) As regard to the intake, after I remove all the pipes/connections, can the head be removed with all that you can see in the pic attached? If so how do you get to the 10mm head bolt at the front above the water pump, there is no room to get any tool in there.... Thanks for your help, I'm taking pics along the way so hope to make a FAQ when all is done. Cheers Stewart

Thanks for the replys guys, cambelt and cams are off now any way, starting now, will try and take some pics along the way...

Any tips on removing the head, or tutorials any where, I am having to do this tomorrow and never removed a head before, cams and timing belt off already, is it just a case of nuts and bolts or is there anything out of the ordinary? Cheers Stewart

Yeah free lessons for Microsoft aswell For sale for £74,000 !!

http://www.japanmotors.co.uk/images/1200ps...ine%20gtr34.htm

No sealant where it shouldn't be. I'm swaping an manual diff for an auto one, found one cheap and it will be good for the drag strip becuase the ratios are different, the casing is only 1cm longer so hopefully this won't cause a problem, the prop shaft moves loads any way. Can't shift either of the guts from either unit out though. The new auto diff didn't come with the driveshaft flanges so I was in the process of just swapping them over but they are either different or the sir clip was bent as when one went in it got stuck and won't go fully in and now it won't come out whatever I do, so I think the only option is to take it to the local transmissions shop to see if they can shift the bugger! What a nightmare!

This part seem to have moved up a bit, is that what needs to come out?

This is the stage I'm at now, which part do mean I have to remove next?

Need to know how it is done as I am in the middle of changing mine at the moment but can't get the damn thing out, I have removed everyting including the 4 bolts you see in this picture, can any one give me a clue of how to get the main unit out? R33 GTST btw Cheers

Any one know the compatibility of the rear diffs on the different R33 models? Phase 1, Phase 2, GTR /GTS are they all interchangeable? Cheers

Looks damn sweet

Standard boost gauge and standard oil pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate, it would be stupid to try and rely on it to check boost while setting this device up, you'll simply end up with a broken skyline if you do.