shyr33

+1 Interesting to note because I want to get a upgraded rear sway bar soon as well. Will see if it does it to mine as well.

I am assuming they are referring to camber, castor and toe (which I would say either the toe or castor is out). Most cars will need to get a wheel alignment every now and again. My car has done this is the past but is usually fixed by a wheel alignment. I also think he means that with the standard set-up there is not much adjustment to be made hence why he might not be able to fix the problem. Without getting adjustable everything its hard to get it perfect. Not sure how bad yours it...maybe something is actually broken and that's why it pulls to the left?

My bet is the battery. After so long not started its probably just dead. Get a new one.....now if it still doesn't start then we might have a problem.

Well the only thing I can think of that could cause a shuddering is maybe a wheel bearing, something to do with power steering, something is loose or something is rubbing against something when turning. Now I'm not sure why it would only be doing it when turning left and not right if it were a wheel bearing. But I'm just throwing up some ideas for other people to maybe comment on.

I think this might of been asked before. Some people say yes (most probably shock rates slightly different but I doubt it) and some people say no. I bought some 'aftermarket' suspension which came of a series 2 and I have a series 1 and their was a bracket type thing on the front shocks which might of been used to hold the ABS lines or something like that. That's the only thing I can think of.

The standard adjustments that you can make on R33's are not alot. I am no expert but I have read that around 1 inch (25mm) drop 'shouldn't' change the camber that much but most people recommend getting a wheel alignment after lowering. In terms of getting new shocks depending on the condition of your standard shocks they will probably last a while (might want to cut the bump stop a little to compensate for the drop) but new ones are not cheap. I would look around (wreckers, forums etc) for a used pair of good shocks if money is a issue. Might get a bargain

how long has the pod been on the car? Will wait for photos

I would of recommended EXEDY for value for money but I don't think they do a push clutch for R33 models only R32 well not according to their website. How come you got the conversion? Have heard some good things about the clutches from Jim Berry, maybe look them up.

Also what do you mean car forces the A/C of? Like it electronically turns it of on the climate control or can you just hear it not working? Just throwing up a idea....someone can shoot it down later if wrong. As the ambient temperature increases the compressor has to work harder e.g. drawing slightly more power so can this be taking power away from the water pump or adding heat somewhere else in the cooling system. Or as the refrigerant heats up more can this heat the coolant from somewhere? Got this idea from a place that I used to work at they had large refrigeration units outside and whenever it got above 40 or so they used to always trip, so hence why I thought car compressor gets to hot and trips (overheats) the car.

So if you don't have the A/C on does it still overheat? I don't use my A/C all the time but when it has been really hot I use it and nothing happens. Although now that I think of it my mates car used to do that as well when he had the A/C on sometimes and that was a series 2. Something fishy is going on lol

If you have it booked in to be sprayed, they should eliminate all the rust before they spray it. Well that depends who you give it to haha. Might cost a few bucks extra in labour for them to do it. Otherwise depending what they are spraying you could try and get rid of it yourself.

Well you have pretty much said most of the problems that I can think of that would cause a car to overheat, now its just time to narrow it down. Depending on the condition (km's) of your car, I wouldnt think the water pump seized. When I needed to get a new one, the seals failed and coolant leaked everywhere. Do you have any leaks from the cooling system? From the water pump? Radiator, hoses etc? Run the car on idle and see if there are any leaks. Thermostats do fail and there not overly expensive so I would probably changed that first and see what happens. Then I would question the 2nd hand radiator.

I think TEIN is a pretty good and reputable suspension brand so I don't see why it wouldn't be ok. Also in terms of price they are not to bad. This topic has been covered quite a bit so I would do a search and just see what other people with GTR's say/have.

I think 30mm would be a fairly good drop. I bought the medium TEIN S.Tech springs, they are slightly stiffer than standard but they feel good to me but only dropped the car about 20mm (I don't have height adjustable suspension dammit!) Whiteline told me they have stopped making springs but when I rang them up they still had a couple left for R33's.

I bought the medium rated springs from TEIN and they are pretty good. Slightly stiffer than standard. They also make a soft version so you might want to look at that. Being in the Philippines I'm not sure what is locally available but here Bilsteins, Koni shocks are pretty good and but can be pretty pricey. Depending on your budget you can get some new coilovers which are adjustable but get them with a low spring rate as stated. Otherwise the standard newish suspension is always another option!

Yep when I was looking for springs I rang them and they said they don't make them anymore, but they did have a few left in the warehouse. So I bought the TEIN ones instead

Loss of fuel or spark maybe? how is the condition of the fuel pump, plugs, coilpacks? Just throwing up some ideas.....

Does he have a standard clutch or aftermarket? My heavy duty clutch does a similar shudder noise at low rpm's. But it just needs a little more rpm i think.. i have heard numerous noises from other peoples cars with heavy clutches so I think its normal.

Yep, I have their adjustable front swaybar and strut brace in the car, definitely stiffened up the front Good value for money I think

Hey guys, thanks for the replies Ye I did put them in myself, but from memory I couldn't remember seeing anything on the rear springs indicating a Left or Right side. And looking at the two they didnt seem different lengths, but I guess a few mm is hard to see. I know that the front drivers side sometimes gets a little bit lower over time due to the weight of the driver but its just strange that it was fine for like 2 weeks and then now it becomes all uneven. Unfortunately I have damper adjustable shocks but not height! So does anyone else have any ideas? Or did it just take a while for the suspension to adjust to the different weight distribution on the car?

Hey guys I'm a little stumped on how this happened so I though I'd get some suggestions. I did a search and found differing ride heights on other skylines but mainly due to old springs sagging. I recently fitted some new (second hand shocks) and new TEIN S.TECH springs on the car and everything was fine. It lowered the car about 20mm ( the maximum rated is Front:32mm, Rear 30mm drop). I measured the heights at the fronts and they were the same and both rear heights were the same as each other. Whereas now about 2-3 weeks after I measured the ride heights (measuring from centre of wheel to guard) and I get these Front Left: 355mm Front Right (drivers side): 348mm Right Rear: 353mm Left Rear: 348mm Now these might be 1 or 2 mm out, but you get the idea . The front left and right rear are a bit higher than the others (and yes the concrete was flat). And considering when I measured them after the install they were fine. The only thing I can think of was I gave the car to PEDDERS and they did a wheel alignment and put some pineapples in the rear. Now I don't think that could change the ride height could it? Thanks in advance

As everyone has said they are pretty good, really improved the cornering ability, very easy to install.

Well "5ky" you have done a good job at again starting up the debate on which coilovers/suspension to use. Im sure you weren't expecting so many replies haha. In the end I think you just have to choose one that you can afford because if you aint got the money then there is nothing you can do. People have given you their opinions......choose what you can and then judge for yourself what you like. And please let us know what you did and the result!

Ye just check the leak every morning or so before you start driving. Nothing worse than having it go overnight after driving it and driving it the next morning with little oil.

So when you took them out, there were no cracks etc what you could see to think it was a defect in the manufacturing? Does sound like it could be computer related. Have you got a tuner to have a look at the computer to see if there is any errors going on?