shyr33

Hey guys I need to buy some new coilpacks soon but as people know there is a difference between the coilpacks for a Series 1 R33 and a Series 2. Now looking at my engine in the photo attached and other people's Series 1 engines, shouldn't there be a largish ignitor type pack where the red circle is. Where as it looks like I have this plug which I have seen on Series 2 engines. So as you can see I'm a little confused (that or im just a noob and missing something). The car is a Series 1 1994 model. Any help will be appreciated Cheers

Hrmm that seems a little expensive to machine the rotors, maybe get a second quote somewhere before going there.

faulty air flow meter maybe? or the AAC valve could be clogging up? Cars are a pain like that, they will do it one day and be fine the next!

Keep a eye on the for sale forum on here, there is usually one up for sale. You can try Nissan but they will probably cost a arm or a leg. The other good alternative is wreckers. Depending where you are from there are usually a few around which will have AFM's

Hey mate I'm not 100% sure about whether it would fit but you could ring Nissan, tell them the car model you have and see what part number etc they have for a 2 door GTT and then get them to check if its the same for a 4 door. If they have different part numbers then I would assume its slightly different?

Hey mate I once got a little rock stuck between the end of the pad and rotor that mad a horrible sound as well as scratch the sh#t out of my rotor! Have a look around to see if anything is stuck, but that just scratched the top part of the rotor as the wheel was spinning. It does sound like you have minimal amount of pad left. As far as cost goes, you can get pretty cheap pads or spend a little more for "better" ones. They will need to machine your rotors aswell. They shouldnt charge you more than about $300-$400 for all 4 pads, rotors machined, new fluid and labour, I wouldnt think.....

Hey mate I wouldn't think it would be better as most people upgrade to a Z32 air flow meter as it is slightly larger. It could just be a typo in his thread.... or that's all he could find before he decided to sell the car. Anyone got other ideas?

My friend used to have issues with boost control. He tried all sort of different manual boost controllers and the same thing happened. So he decided to buy a electronic one and it held the same boost nicely in every gear. But they are expensive! If you want/need accurate boost control I think you need to shy away from boost Tee's......? I have one as well and mine does similar things to yours.

I did the same as 'geraus' and it has never had a problem, as long as its sitting correctly on the cradle you shouldnt have a problem

Lawler, I think the standard front springs on a R33 from my calculations have a spring rate of about 3-3.5kg/mm......anyone know any better?

Hrmm well it might also pay to change to oil to the lower grade then e.g. 40 next time you change your oil and then let us know how it goes Looks like you have a few things to try hopefully one of them gives you some success!

Ye that makes sense (I have been working to much with large water pumps in the water industry) thanks Beer Baron. What pressures do the cooling system operate at (is that 0.9bar on my standard cap?)

Ye I wish I could have a brand new R33 straight from the factory mmm mmm haha Um it stands for Auxiliary Air Control valve and allows/controls the amount of air for idling once the car has warmed up. There is a DIY thread on this forum which covers it. Have a look and see what you think. There is also a cold start valve which controls the idle when cold so you could also have a look at cleaning that. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

Hrmm well we all know that we dont have brand new cars anymore so there is always going to be some little problem associated with them but yours is not that little haha. I know when my car is cold also it jerks around a bit with low idling (400-500rpm) and then I give it a rev and it usually goes a little higher. So might need to clean that AAC valve. Also it is a little sluggish when cold but I thought that was kind of normal when cold? Um as you said I think its most likely ignition timing related. What exactly did they do on the 100km service? Can you take it back there and tell them what is happening? A good mechanic should look at it and fix it for free if they did something wrong!

Obviously if say 2 of your cylinders were misfiring it feels/sounds alot worse than if 1 cylinder was, so maybe it could be misfiring in more cylinders? I knew someone with a 4 cylinder car and 1 of her cylinders werent firing, it would shudder the whole car at idle. I wouldn't think it's the 'wrong' oil doing it. People put all different grades of oil in their skyline and I havent heard much about it causing a rocking at idle. As mentioned I would check the spark plugs, make sure they arent fouled or anything, then re-gap them to closer to 1mm and see how that goes. Then you might have to see if you can borrow someones 'good' coilpacks and check if it still does it. This is my guess but I am assuming if you are running a relatively stock car and gap the plugs to low then you can still be adversly affected because they fire to quickly or something like that. So the ignition times slightly change. But again people on here run lower gaps and dont have a problem so I dont know....

Hey mate I would also say the ticking when cold is due to the slightly thicker oil (15) taking a while to warm up enough to thin out and lubricate all the areas. I use 10W50 in mine and it runs perfectly for normal street driving. I would say for track work etc you might want to use a slightly thinner oil e.g. 40. Also my car is also suffering from the slight rocks at idle but I need new coilpacks as the car misfires quite a bit so I'm assuming its doing the same at idle now and because it is revving so low at idle you feel it alot more.

Hey mate so did you change to a new waterpump? What brand was it? Now I am no expert but isnt it the water pump which will create the pressure in the system? And if you have a properly sealed system then there should pressure. So either the pump is not creating enough pressure or the pressure is leaking outwards somewhere and as mentioned one of the main reasons for a car running hot is air in the system or you have a very fouled radiator. That happened to a friend of mine. Car was overheating, took of the radiator and gave it to a radiator shop and got it cleaned. They said it had alot of shit in it, put it back on the car and ran ok.

My car used to do that and then I cleaned the AAC valve and it stopped doing it for quite a while. It has kind of come back now so maybe its time for another clean.

Hey mate Have you tried connecting the blow of valve back and seeing what it does then? Leaks are a pain, it only takes the slightest spilt or something to cause a unwanted noise. Have you sprayed soapy water on certain places to check for the leaks?

Hey mate The same problem happened to me and I have already had to replace 1 set of tyres and now I can see it coming back again (the inside of the rear tyres wearing out). I took it to the tyre shop and they did a wheel alignment and adjusted it slightly but the standard suspension is limited on how much you can adjust things. Whiteline state that the recommended camber for the rears is between -1 to -1.5 degrees i think? What do other people think? So maybe take it to a tyre shop (if you havent already) and get them to do a wheel alignment and see how far back they can adjust the camber. Otherwise something else could be bent..... or you might need to look at a adjustable camber kit. I'm no where near a expert but thats my two cents worth

Sorry to hijack the thread, but now that you mention TEIN and KING springs I was thinking of buying TEIN S-Tech Springs for my R33 and I was wondering, they list the front spring rate as 4.1kg/mm and the rears at 4.4kg/mm, where I think the King springs are stiffer at the front than at the rears. Now you wouldnt feel the difference between 4.1 and 4.4 (I wouldnt think) but I'm just curious as to why you would have a stiffer spring at the back? What are people's thoughts?

Hi all I am advertising two R34 GT-T Nissan Skylines on behalf of a friend. The cars are located in the South Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne, Victoria CAR 1 is a Turbo, 2 door coupe Colour: Silver Kilometres: 76000 Transmission: Tiptronic Details: * Rego until April 2009 * RWC supplied * Pioneer Cd Player * Immaculate condition * First owner in Australia Price : $20000 ono CAR 2 is a Turbo, 2 door coupe Colour: Black Kilometres: 74000 Transmission: Tiptronic Details: * Nismo adjustable suspension * Nismo bodykit * Factory 17 inch Nismo wheels (very rare colour) Price: $20000 ono For any further questions or if you are interested in having a closer look please contact Matt on 0411 343 682. Please only use this phone for contact about these cars as i am not the owner. , , , ,,

Hey Chronic Im no professional but white smoke is usually something to do with oil being burnt somewhere in the exhaust region. This has happened to a few friends of mine but they were blowing white smoke a bit more than you and the culprit was oil. Also my cat is stuffed at the moment to and sometimes it backfires and stinks when i give it a bit but i dont know whether this could be causing smoke. I would just have a good look around your exhaust manifold/turbo for any leaks for now

Thanks for the reply guys i thought that was supposed to happen but i thought theres no hurt in asking. Oh and i will try to restrain myself from filling it from the gearstick hole then haha Cheers

Hey guys this might be a stupid question for those in the know, but im just wondering if the gearbox/diff can be overfilled like a engine can? Is the capacity around 3.8L or less? When my mate changed his g/box oil he just did it until it sort of came back out again does this make sense? Ive done a search on this topic but couldnt find anything. Would like to know a definite answer before changing mine Thanks in advance