shyr33

Hey man just read your thread on ur restoration and i know you've heard this so many times but thats a awesome job your doing in the legacy of the GTR. Its good to see people restoring their cars not just to make it go faster. Why couldnt you of stayed in melbourne so i could of had a look at it through its stages lol, anyways good luck with the final touches

Thanks for the reply guys, well i could leave it for 5 minutes to warm up and then start driving then when i stop instead of idling at normal rpm's it will idle somewhere close to 2000rpm. I know its not a normal thing because i have had the car for like 3 years without this happening before. And it has also occured after like 20 minutes of driving just last night. So im very confused. I know about cleaning the AAC valve and that but is there a separate valve what controls the car at idle when cold or is it just the AAC controlling idle? If people could clear that up for me that would be great thanks.

bump any ideas guys?

Sorry should of been a little clearer, i mean once i start it, it will sometimes idle at its normal cold start value what your talking about but then i take it out of the driveway and drive it around for a little bit and then i stop at some lights and poah it shoots up to about 2000rpm while im sitting there and doesnt go down. Its like a valve forgets to close/open or something thats my problem and why im asking. Thanks for the quick replies so far guys

Gdays it looks like the common cold idle problem has hit my car(94 R33GTST). As i start her up in the morning the idle either rises to about 1500-2000rpm straight away or as soon as i start driving and stop at some lights. This occurs until operating temperature is reached where it goes back to normal. Now i have done some research before i ask this question and am just a little confused on something. Is it this cold start valve causing my problems (which i assume controls idle when cold) or the AAC valve (which i thought controlled idle along with the ecu/IAC valve when normal operating conditions are reached).As you can see im a little confused. Due to being a busy uni student i dont have much time pulling of everything and giving it a clean so i only want to go after what i/people think is the main problem. Any help would be appreciated Thanks

Hey guys i know this has been covered before(lots of times) and i have looked on the net and searched through this site and found some information. I currently just have the stock r33 wheels on my car and are interested in these 17*7.5 enkei wheels what are being sold on here. They have a offset of +32 on them so from what i know from my basic knowledge of offsets this should be fine(without using spacers or doing any sort of mods) but before wasting my time and the persons i just want to see if anyone could back this up. Thanks again

Bump, sorry guys ignore that post i had a guy from here send me a copy. Thanks tmc_2 owe you one mate

Hey guys i bought a hybrid intercooler gt spec for my s1 r33 but unfortunately it didnt come with instructions since i bought it second hand. I have done a search on this site and on the net for the instruction guide mainly for the meausrement of where to cut the hole in the body to fit the pipe through but i could not find it. I could still get away with not having it but it will take a little more time to estimate where to drill this weekend(dont have all that much time to waste), so if anyone has this guide handy could you please post these measurement for me. Any help will be much appreciated Thanks

Thanks for the feedback guys, i did adjust the alternator adjustment screw a little bit because i thought it was a little loose, then took it back to the mechanics and he said its fine because he didnt want to tighten it to much because it will put to much strain on the water pump and bearing if it was to tight. Maybe some grease or something got onto the belt while it was changed. Ill give it over the weekend to fix itself, if not back to the drawing board on monday i think hrmmm

Thanks for the reply guys, its my regular mechanic so they will no doubt fix it for free i just thought maybe it would go away by itself after a while but looks like ye they didnt tighten it enough. Thanks again

Hey Guys, There is this loud screaching noise when the car hasnt been started for a few hours or in the morning. Now i know the noise is coming from one of the recently replaced water pump, ac or power steering belts and goes away after a few seconds and stays quiet when im driving. Im thinking the mechanic either didnt tension the belt enough or to much? Or does this usually happen for the first few times with new belts once they are changed. Any feedback is appreciated thanks

Nice wheels man, if only my clutch didnt give up on me now i could of bought them off ya , if you still have them around in like a couple of months i would buy them of ya lol but i dont think that will happen

Gday guys just want to know if you can pull of the cover to my steering wheel because ive got a clunking noise and i think my horn/airbag has come lose or do you have to take the steering wheel of. has anyone pulled theres off. car is a 94 model r33

ohh the car is a 94 model skyline

Gday guys on thursday i had two options to try and aviod a accident either smash into a car or run up a gutter and minimize my damage. I choose the gutter. In doing so i have bent the passenger side tie rod and i think the control arm, i was wondering what the best approach would be to fix it, ive been quoted $280 for a whole new steering rack because they said they dont sell just tie rods by itself and like $180 for a control arm is this cheap? im in melb so was wondering if anyone else has had accident like this and what they did to fix it? Also does anyone recommend where to go to get it fixed? ive also got body damage and a smashed headlight so i want to try and keep the costs down.Any help is appreciated

ye i thought once when i put in cheap you could feel it being very flat, its just interesting to see what people will do when the prices keep rising thanks for the reply mate

Gday guys just want to start a little bit of a open discussion here, we all know that usually the more octane you run(obviously to a certain limit) the better it is for your car when your dragging/track etc but since you all know the petrol prices have sky rocketed, $1.41 at mobil just before for synergy so i just want to see what people think/experienced when running normal octane petrol not 98 RON? i have been running mobils synergy since i got my car like 2 years ago and it has never noticably misfired or had a problem due to a bad batch of petrol, but since im still at uni and earning jack shit a week was wondering what other people run? I dont go to the track and dont regularly drag so would it be worthwhile staying with 98RON?

thanks guys i will take the cover of and see what exactly is happening because im sick of the noise. dont think i want to waste money on it, i will let you know how it goes.

Gday guys i think i have found my first fault on my 1994 line, either the airbag or horn or both have come loose and rotate inside the steering wheel when i turn, last night it got to the point where as soon as i turn a corner the horn will go of, so i had to disconnect it this morning to get piece of mind, anyway my question is can i take the front steering wheel cover of without the airbag going of? ive been told i came as long as i disconnect the battery is this ok?

thanks guys umm i think ill try and just do one side of the caliper so i dont have to disconnect the brake lines but if/when i get bigger wheels and it looks funny then ill have to disconnect it and do it properly ill look in the DIY section and see what i can find

Hello all, just a quick question i did a search but couldnt find anything, i want to paint my calipers but im just wondering do you have to bleed the braking system once you take the calipers off or can you just put it back on and just drive. Also could i just take the front of the caliper of and not bleed it. Any help is appreciated thanks

Wow that was a big reply thanks guys, cars now back on the road. When i bought the car it just had the timing belt done but i dont know what else. My mechanic did a pressure test and everything was ok but i dont know if the tensioners were changed by the last owner. What sort of damage would happen if they fail or what are the signs of them going? didnt have enough money to get them changed this time

Gday guys just thought id write in and say its time for a new water pump, found it leaking pretty hard during the week. Has anyone elses gone at around 120k's ? Anyway my question is when i put a little coolant in to it up and let it run for like 30 secs i opened the radiator cap and there was foamy type bubbles at the top of the radiator does anyone know why that happened? Engine being to hot maybe? Also im getting it changed on Monday is there anything esle my mechanic should look at/change due to the water pump dying. Any feedback is appreciated thanks

thanks for the reply mintr33 ill go down and get some new advanced pads

hey guys just wondering i went down to bursons today to find a replacement pad for the bendix ultamates and they had two in stock, the bendix advanced ($70 per pair) and the bendix heavy duty($110 per pair) just wondering if anyone has these brake pads and if so which one i should purchase car is just for road use but i do want a good pad that will stop. any feedback will be appreciated thanks