J_R32

exhaust wise, the only diff between 32 gtst and the 33 gtst is cat back. dumps and fronts are all the same... got a pic of the split?

ok the sound, which is a light tapping sound (almost like a tap tap tap, but it not pinging) and it appears to be coming from the exhaust cam side of the engine.

check your timing your timing could be retarded. also condition of spark plugs?

Hey guys, long story cut short was checking timing on my rb20det (auto 85000km, cat back exhaust and pod) and when it warmed up and we reved it to approx 2000rpm, we heard a knocking sound. the noise doesnt get louder as the engine revs climb (took it to approx 5000 rpm) the knocking sound seems to "disappear" at high rpm but i am thinking that could be just engine noise taking over. Is my bearings in my bottom end gone? or is my problem just valve shims? it should be noted that my car does make a knocking sound for about 1-3 seconds when i start it cold, oil pressure light takes about 1-3 seconds to turn off and when driving it cold, as soon as i hit vacuum i can hear a tapping/knocking sound as well, which disappears when the engine is warmed up i am confused/lost help would be much appreciated i pray it aint my bottom end thankyou

do u have pic of front pipe? if so pls send to [email protected] and pls name ur lowest price?

bump plus price drop

is it std dump and front pipe? got pic of those and u willing to separate?

is that all that comes with the oil cooler and relocator kit? u dont have the part that goes from the original part to the oil relocator?

its all mechanical... as for the senders, im not too sure. sorry. sorry 100 is too low...

pic of guage pic of wat i got which = wat u will get.. i neva opened the packing

hi just wandering what is the condition of the fuel pump? how old is it and how long has it being used for? would u take 80 sent to perth?

will try and get one asap. dun really wanna take it out of its packing thou...

heys as per topic, bought this frm a sau member, still in package he sent it in. have not use for it as i have changed my mind, and changed my plans. would like to use this money elsewhere. letting it go for 180 including postage australia wide. will try and find pics of it. cheers matt *price drop 180*

hi/lo beam? or jus low?

consider sold, pmed u for finer details

is this jus the cover or the full kit consisting of the reverse light, and the wiring loom to do the actual conversion properly?

many places, late at nite barrack street jetty, point walter car park, kings park, burswood foreshore, south perth, east perth is a great place if u can get the rite timing thingo... if ur willing to travel, aruleuin(however u spell it, its in the hills near roleystone...) canningvale, the new estates, theres a couple of places... beaches and freo port, like teejay said, jus drive..u'll b amazed wat perth has to offer

do u still have original boxes for the amp and splits?

if u have a turbo timer, all ur electrical needs for ur guage are there, only problem is guage light is contantaly on unless u turn off ur timer

where is the IAC valve located and wat can be done to it maintenence wise?

sorry for the stupid questain, but is the aac valve the little "black box" that sits on the inlet minifoldfacing the firewall? if not can u please point out to me where is and wat it looks like? thank you

Ok peoples, i have noticed that on hot days, when i have the air con on (even on half power) my R32 gtst auto, would sometimes be not capable of maintaining idle. the revs would drop and unless i stab the accelerator, the idle wont be restored. this will also happen when i put it into reverse with the air con (need to keep left foot on brakes and right foot feathering accerlerator!) it should be noted it doesnt happen all the time but recently has become more frequent. what could be causing it to not mainttain idle when air con is on? is it from a worn out ignitor module? or has it got something to do with the tps and my auto comp? could worn out spark plugs cause this? any help on this would be appreciated. thank you

jus wandering will the turbo bolt up to the cooler and its piping, as well as the stock manifold? if not wat needs to be done to make the kit fit to a std car? also wats the overall condition of the turbo and wat sort of dump pipe will fit on it? thx

jus wandering, the intercooler kit, did u have to cut anything? ie front bumper, bumper support etc? or was is a direct bolt in?

Hi, apologies to hijack this thread but i feel it is related. i understand that all Rb20dets have this "cold-choke" function, but my issue when my car is cold is that as soon as it starts getting some positive pressure(even 1psi on my aftermarket gauge) i will immediately hear a sort of "flapping-ticking" sound. this sound will disappear once the car is running normal operating temp. it should also be noted that it boost wont climb very fast, compared to when it is running at normal tempurature but i believe that is because of the "cold-choke" function, computer running some retarded timing on the engine. anyone else have this sound when cold, or know what it could be?