Rusty Nuts

Mate, would't you be better off asking this question on http://www.navara.asia/

Great news indeed, had my fingers crossed for you mate, hope it all works out well, Happy Days.

Four days ago I suggested you get some help, but you were not having that!!!!!

you need to do all cylinders at TDC your firing order is 1 3 4 2 so rotate one full turn after no.1 then do 3 and so on. check out some youtube vids if you haven't done one before.

No, thats a compression tester, you will need an air compressor but a small one will work fine https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-cylinder-leak-down-tester/392419.html

Supercheap have a leakdown tester for $20

Go for it mate, as you are cranking clockwise it might be easier to count roller pins from the inlet cam silver link as the gold link is 56 roller pins away down the left hand side of the chain, so you can count them as they roll past. The slacking of the chain you see sometimes is just the cam rolling off its high point causing the chain to look jumpy, remember you don't have the top tensioner on.

Nope, he's going Full Custom Garage R34

Oh good, i haven't pissed myself laughing for a long time

Good choice mate, eyes on, beats me on the internet hundreds of km's away, anyday.

Yes, bent valve stem, damaged valve guide, damaged piston, broken rocker arm to think of a few.

Mate, its become obvious that the chain is installed wrong, at this point to prevent any damage to parts by rotating the engine you need to bite the bullet and get some eyes on help, I would lift the engine half out of the car (leave the gearbox attached) this will give you access to the timing cover so you can set the chain right and while I applaud your efforts you need someone who knows their way around a twin cam engine standing next to you.

You can see if the valves are opened or opening from the top, by looking at the cam lobes, mate. In picture 2 you posted today you can see that the inlet cam has closed the valve I can not see the exhaust lobe in that photo.

If you are on wrong stroke (exhaust stroke) at TDC the exhaust valve will be closing and the inlet valve will be opening.

Well its a 4 stroke mate so you turn them twice to get back on compression stroke, which makes me worry you have your yellow marks on wrong stroke. On compression stroke both valves will be closed at TDC.

Stop stamping your feet' look on gumtree there is one for swap for supra bonnet and a supra bonnet is worth about $300. Remove bum beanie and start looking harder to solve your problem.

Glad you got the tensioner in, but what happened to your yellow marks if its at TDC.

Production stopped 17 years ago, stop stamping your feet, and revisit your decision to buy an incomplete car. A $200 part that sits on the shelf for 17 years owes at least $700 plus rarity factor.

Use a spanner on the hex on the inlet cam to rotate it anticlockwise to remove the slack in the chain between the cam sprockets. This slack will allow you to insert the tensioner I think.

Mate, you said you were confident you were at TDC so you need to reassemble cam caps and tighten sprocket bolts etc so you can tension the timing chain, and you have to work off your own yellow marks not the silver and gold links. The manual states that when installing the exhaust camshaft, the sprocket key (actually a dowel) is in the 12 o'clock position at TDC. That was what I was referring to. You MUST get the tensioner installed before you go any further. You need to be able to rotate the crankshaft and camshafts.

The very best of luck from me mate, hope you are driving really soon.

Please note changes, in capitals, use exhaust KEY mark not sprocket mark.

But, if you were at TDC your yellow marks show that the chain is two links out already. The only way you can do it now is old school roller pin counting using your yellow marks, the balancer marks and the exhaust cam mark ending up vertical in the 12 o'clock position, I have done it this way with a twin cam Alfa Romeo. You will have to install the tensioner properly first to rotate the engine, to get the tensioner to insert you need more slack on the chain on that side, you need to rotate the inlet cam anticlockwise to remove the slack in the chain between the cam sprockets without moving the crankshaft from its TDC position. Once you have the chain tensioned properly there are a few know dimensions which will tell you if the timing is right. 1. you have a TDC mark on the crank pulley 2. you have a yellow mark on the exhaust cam sprocket 3. there are 48 roller pins between the TDC link and your yellow mark link. Once you have identified the link by counting 48 roller pins from your yellow mark, You start by rotating the engine until this TDC link is positioned at the mark on the exhaust sprocket and the exhaust mark is perfectly vertical(12 o,clock) then rotate the crank clockwise until the yellow exhaust mark is perfectly vertical (12o'clock) and then check the position of your balancer mark, if all is correct the balancer mark will line up. Take a look at page EM-24 in the manual I posted up, there is a picture of the chain that will help. I hope I have explained that well enough, if you have any questions just ask.

All jokes aside here is the manual 5-Nissan-R32-Skyline-Engine-Workshop-Manual.pdf

Mate, I would not use those silver links as a reference without knowing that the gold link is lined up, if you were on TDC when you made those yellow marks then the gold link is NOT in the correct place or the chain has kinked back on itself. This whole drama started with a broken rocker arm - was the timing chain out of sequence then???? Did it cause the original breakage???? You really really need to take the front cover off and establish where the gold link is. I know you are keen to get driving again but if you don't fix this properly more damage is going to occur. Just trying to help you mate, Slow and steady will win this race.