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Rusty Nuts

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Everything posted by Rusty Nuts

  1. Rusty Nuts
    At top Dead Centre there is a gold link on the chain that aligns with a crankshaft mark, until you remove the harmonic balancer and front cover you can not tell if the gold link is aligned at TDC. If you get any part of this timing procedure wrong you will bend a valve or punch a hole in a piston.
  2. Rusty Nuts
    Mate, I get the feeling you have not maintained the crank at TDC while you did this work, I have had a quick look at the manual PDF I sent you the link for, and if the silver links are not aligned with the circle marks when you started (hence your yellow marks) then I would suggest you download the manual, remove the harmonic balancer and front cover and start again fresh. You have been struggling with fix since early November, you probably need to get someone knowledgeable in front of this engine to help you.
  3. Rusty Nuts
    Follow the procedure in the workshop manual, guaranteed to work. get manual, http://www.eatsleepboost.lt/files/manuals/s14_200sx_sr20det_repair_manual.pdf
  4. Rusty Nuts
    Ask member Gts-t he loves this colour and has had many things painted in it. See this post Matching Bayside Blue Paint
  5. Rusty Nuts
    Could be; Release mechanism noise Loose pressure plate bolt Loose cover plate Failing clutch plate (endless list of components) Really could be anything, impossible to diagnose from a vid, mate. You need to disassemble and find the cause, no internet diagnosis will be accurate Wishing you the best of luck though
  6. Rusty Nuts
    The centre bearing thrust face is not pressure fed with oil, the sides of the bearing rely on dripping oil for lubrication, extended clutch riding can have an effect on end float ,the crank thrust bearings can withstand a shedload of force but they can't do it for long periods.So while they can handle the heavy but intermittent loads produced by a super heavy duty pressure plate without problems a continuous load can wipe them out. As GTSBoy said its doubtful you have caused this, But more likely a previous owner with poor driving skills over an extended period.
  7. Rusty Nuts
    Number 4 main bearing (centre bearing) controls end float, the maximum float is 0.3mm. During a rebuild the end float is measured with a dial gauge using a new bearing in place, if the float exceeds the maximum the crank should be replaced. Standard float is usually 0.05 to 0.18mm. So would suggest the rebuild was not done right or the crank needs replacing.
  8. Rusty Nuts
    A previous owner decided to rustproof with deoderized fish oil, maybe??
  9. Rusty Nuts
    Fair enough.
  10. Rusty Nuts
    Mate, wouldn't you be better off joining something like Zilvia.net
  11. Rusty Nuts
    Have not worked on this particular engine but on others it prevents the chain bouncing upwards and removing chunks of valve cover and can prevent it jumping off the cogs. Hence its name "guide"
  12. Rusty Nuts
    Mate, cost conscious manufacturers don't usually add parts that are not needed. So put it back on. The chain is probably old and stretched.
  13. Rusty Nuts
    The L300 timing belt change interval is 100,000 km as far as I remember and shouldn't cost more than $600 get some more quotes.
  14. Rusty Nuts
    Mate, you are not searching hard enough or not reading the entire threads. Try this on this forum R34 Non-turbo Rotor Size And Pads and it will lead you to this http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Brake_Upgrades_Miscellaneous Read the threads in their entirety otherwise you miss stuff.
  15. Rusty Nuts
  16. Rusty Nuts
    C'mon Dylan You need to try harder mate, I searched this forum using "4 stud brake conversion" and got 10 pages of results
  17. Rusty Nuts
    https://futuremotorsports.com/product/greddy-cam-gear-intake-exhaust/
  18. Rusty Nuts
    Welcome Mate, sweet looking R34, if you are storing for extended time watch out for gummed up injectors ,that got me once. Maybe run some STA-BIL through it.
  19. Rusty Nuts
    Welcome Josh, Sorry for your troubles mate, good luck with your rebuild.
  20. Rusty Nuts
    Why bother with Regency, stick the 25 in. No half arsed copper could tell the difference by looking in the bay, plenty of plods have looked in my bay and none have said "Hey thats a 3.0litre in there". Just need plenty of thick paint over the engine number.
  21. Rusty Nuts
    Yep, the openings were plugged, but I rebuilt a DET using one DE block and swapped the fittings and other internals in. The factory had not left anything blanked or undrilled, although I have seen R34 N/A 75T blocks that did not have the turbo oil drain drilled and tapped.
  22. Rusty Nuts
    Not actually true, I have two DE blocks with functional oil drain and water fittings
  23. Rusty Nuts
    Just plugging in 75T in the search box on this forum provides all the answers
  24. Rusty Nuts
    Yes mate, you are on the money. Pin 104 is the boost control, go for it and good luck.
  25. Rusty Nuts
    Mate, don't jump to any conclusions before you get the error codes read. Locking in 3rd probably means "limp mode" and this can be caused by a myriad of problems, not just a shift solenoid.
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