Rusty Nuts

Aww come on mate, don't hold back, say what you really feel.

This says it all, the easy way not the best way. Anyone heard of Best Practice. Anyone!!

Modern car or not, this result proves the point

Any power taken from the ignition switch should only be used to energize a relay this minimizes current draw on the switch.

Maybe should have paid attention to this suggestion. WTF so many people think ignition switches are good power distributors has me F**ked. Its a bloody SWITCH not a power distribution point. But you just learned that the hard way eh eh. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it THINK.

G"Day mate you should probably add City and suburb to your ad, and as GTSBoy suggested some photo's uploaded would help your cause, Good Luck.

There are two locating pins in the bottom part of the retainer, you will have to get the bottom of the retainer moving FIRST then lever it off evenly all round (not necessary now its rooted) there is a fair bit of compression exerted on the retainer by the pan plus whatever sealant was used. You can see the pins clearly in the photo's.

Doesn't mean its not rooted just because its the right one. Its probably 25 years old.

Yes to all, My three series BMW did exactly what you described some time ago and it was the voltage regulator, but It fried the battery, the TCU and the ABS computer, So straight to the auto electrician is best advice and get the entire system checked.

Yeh I've earned them. You just want short cuts "oxygen thief"

This has been discussed AD NAUSEUM in the last 6 pages mate, you could at least read them. (Ad nauseam is a Latin term for argument or other discussion that has continued to the point of nausea. For example, "this has been discussed ad nauseam" indicates that the topic has been discussed extensively and those involved have grown sick of it.)

The DE NEO intake ports are at least 3mm narrower (smaller)all round and the fuel injector shrouding is completely different. If you are happy with these mismatches the parts will physically fit together.

Welcome Tim, That was a sweet looking 33 what a shame its gone. Don't believe its mid-life crisis, just good old human regret. I,m still kicking myself for selling a mint Kawasaki Z900 which the guy promptly wrapped around a car, Ah regrets.

More likely 25 valve covers and valley covers

This ECU is from a HR34 Skyline N/A RB20DE auto 4speed 2WD NON-HICAS. So correct for the RB20DE you have. If your R34 is built after May 1998 then it is the ECU that came with your car.

I'm not theorizing or guessing, Nissan make it easy for us when it comes to block part numbers, the 6th 7th and 8th numbers are the casting numbers, no guesses or theories required. The part number of this block is 110005L300 RB20DE

No they are completely different first image is 4door 2nd image is 2door

5L3 block is a RB20de block out of a Stagea 1997 to 1999. Its not a RB25. So should run fine on the 20de ECU. Shirtfront the seller he is a liar.

They are NOT the same mate.

And the S14 parts catalogue quotes the part number as 2501071T00 same part number

Info came direct (cut and paste) from parts catalogue all care taken but no responsibility.

After looking further that part number applies to the following models- So you already may have a sensor that fits (RB20E+RB25DET).MT,F5 +(GTS25+GTS25.S).MT,F5 08.1993 - 01.1995 (RB20E+RB25DET).MT.F5 +(GTS25+GTS25/S).MT.F5 01.1995 - 01.1996 (RB20E+RB25DET).MT.F5 +GTS25/S.MT.F5 01.1996 - ...

You just need to buy an appropriate speed sensor to make the speedo work. The part number is 2501071T00 just make sure it has 21 teeth . They are still available and were used in a variety of Nissan's. Amayama can supply for about $100 plus freight New. But as GTS Boy said its the same sensor in a N/A 5speed box so possibility of second hand.

Did this same job yesterday, after breaking my favourite "pickle fork" I soaked it with WD40 went away for a couple hours then used a large puller popped off straightaway

I'm using RE4R03A out of a Z31 was rebuilt with new parts, the standard bellhousing fits this box, Tailshaft built by Hardy Spicer in 24 hours, slight changes to crossmember, redrilled flex plate to suit converter, and added manual valve body to get rid of TCU and running a guard mounted cooler, been in car behind a 30/25 for nearly 2 years. Good for 600 HP all day every day according to builder plus shift pattern change to P R N 1 2 3 4, and heaps cheaper than C4 or Powerglide, too easy.