Rusty Nuts

Any RB25 R32,R33, will fit the sumps and blocks are the same. Don't overthink it.

Thats pretty normal actually. What you have to watch for, Check your coolant reservoir after a run and the car is hot, if the level is high or overflowing, you have a compression leak from HG.

Plenty of good Subaru forums, why ask here?

There are some good guides for prep on YouTube. Wax and grease remover use before starting any work, use before and after sanding and use a plastic etch primer if you're using cans Septone make one I've used.

just check Gumtree there is one being wrecked in Woollongabba https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woolloongabba/wrecking/parting-out-r32-skyline/1275703938

Its what I have used for Four Cylinder Subaru's for years. Some Guys I worked with just go directly to 150 ft-lb as this definitely gets the angle past 65 degrees. Up to you bud, heaps of luck.

But the simple way is just go to the R33 GTS page at GTRRegistry and all the details same as FAST are there.

This is the factory procedure; 13.Crank Pulley A: REMOVAL 1) Remove the V-belts. <Ref. to ME(H4SO)-36, REMOVAL, V-belt.> 2) Remove the crank pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH 3) Remove the crank pulley. B: INSTALLATION 1) Install the crank pulley. 2) Install the pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use Shop Tool 499977100 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH (1) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (2) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (3) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m or 33 ft-lb). (4) Tighten the crank pulley bolts. Tightening torque: 180 N·m or 132.8 ft-lb) 3) Check that the tightening angle of the clamp pulley bolt is a minimum of 65°, Perform the following procedures when less than 65°. (1) Replace the crank pulley bolts and clean them. Crank pulley bolt: 12369AA011 (2) Clean the crankshaft thread using compressed air. (3) Apply engine oil to the crank pulley bolt seat and thread. (4) Tighten the bolts temporarily with a tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb). (5) Tighten the crank pulley bolt an additional 65° to 75°.

Just one other thing, its a common mod to bypass some of the heater water (Google it), it takes pressure off the core which can become blocked, I did it to both my daughters Subaru's as a preventative measure. Just add the double tee with a short piece of 5/8 hose between it, gives faster warm up, ensures flow to the thermostat, and seems to keep them cooler in traffic. The pic below is a Subaru probs not yours, but Subaru mark their hoses. I got the Tee's from Bunnings, cheap as chup's,Bro across the water.

I do my own plastic welding, use a cheap as sh#t chinese welder off Aliexpress, I use good quality welding rods, and source patch pieces from other Nissan plastic bars. Then the repair is smoothed with flexible plastic filler available from repco. I have a collection of repaired R33 S1 and S2 and M bars which were discarded by their previous owners. I also make my own ABS filler paste, very easy and ingredients available from Bunnings.

Yeah, sorry bout that, but probe have had the units themselves, so are worth asking.

https://probe.com.au/ocart2/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1061

Good Luck bud, I hope its the pump.

Its the early symptom of a compression leak to coolant jacket. Your head gasket, probably only one side, has failed. They have shit heater cores which leak under these circumstances, Also Subaru since the early seventies have decided that the heater core is the most important part of the car, they put a heater core on the production line and build the Subaru around it. Good luck.

But if you did not disconnect the battery, the ECU still carries a fault, clear faults and try again.

Genuine still available $1500 plus freight from Amayama

Yes, something like this, except this board Nistune type 4 won't work with your ecu.

Its what you think it is, WGC34 Rb25de. Open it up does it have a daughter board inside?.

I've sent you the manual, page 285 has the combined RB25de/25det ECU pinout. Only 2 wires different, boost control and fuel pump signal.

Try the Tridon site, I have used the 10mm ones. TPE580 6mm Dia. TPE582 8mm Dia. TPE584 10mm Dia. TPE586 13mm Dia. TPE588 18mm Dia.

My old BMW E36 came new with 7 year warranty on the Body. Its rust free after 25 years. Although the clear coat is falling off in sheets.

Steve Verrocchi has moved on from plain theft to being a military imposter, he has been wearing a replica Victoria Cross, this is the lowest act from a fraud, Too cowardly to actually join the military, buys gongs on ebay. So its ANZAC day keep your eyes peeled for this arsehole and feel free to bash him before you call the police. There are only nine living recipients of the VC and (4) four of them are Aussies and one Kiwi. The last VC who died was Bill Speakman, he was a friend of my Dad in Korea.

Simple, the Lady is trying to run to ground a scumbag called Steve Verrocchi, who was well known on this forum a few years ago, for ripping people off. Take your dickhead hats off for a moment and if you can help do so.

Check around the fuel injector seats for leaks, also possibly an injector is leaking.

RB25DET Neo Cam Gears? By Dyzzii, December 30, 2018 in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002) Read this it sounds like a similar problem