Rusty Nuts

I just read everything in this post, seems to me all the answers are there. It boils down to continuity or fried ECU.

Yes, absolutely correct Bret, the 75T was used in R33series 1&2 and R34 Neo RWD RB25 Skylines both turbo and N/A.

You need a 1100075T00 block they have 75T cast into the block. The correct pilot bush is part no.32202B950A

If it has a neo head on it. It is a collection of Nissan parts.

Thats an ENR33 GT4 RB25de block. Part No.1100023U00 There should be 23U cast into block. IT IS NOT a neo block they are 6L1 blocks

The 250GT V36 NV36 sedan is a Japanese version of the Infiniti G25 sedan. Mechanically identical.

code 21 is No consecutive ignition signal while the engine is running code 44 (relates to ABS-TCS communication circuit (RB25DET)) and is Malfunction (open/short circuit, etc.) is detected in multiplex communication line between engine and TCWABS. 21 should trigger a MIL but 44 doesn't.

We have tried to help you, you ungrateful moron, YOU are the one who has taken a shotgun approach to diagnosis, take a look back at your imbecilic posts, and go and purchase a sense of humour.

All good glad to help.

If you can figure out the size of the bush and tube insert, try going to the Superpro website they have a section called Find my bush size, small possibility they have a bush thats close. I got lucky with a BMW bush I couldn't match. Had too reduce the length though.

The rack part number is 49200JK00A this rack is fitted to the following Chassis : CV36 V36 CKV36 KV36 PV36 its completely unique to the 36 chassis range unfortunately

Correct, there is no part number hence not available

And under the red tape and the black tape and the green tape

Simply green from Bunnings cheap and effective.

Looks more like an orangutan got at it with wire cutters and a soldering iron

Its certainly possible the wrong one found its way on at the factory

Don't pay for someone elses thrashed box, thats even more problematic. Service using RTK32 RYCO filter kit and any ATF will NOT do use dexron two. Dexron three is full of modifiers that cause slip and flare in these boxes. I use Prolube AUTOMAX IID. It is mineral not synthetic.

There are RB20 R32's for sale in various parts of the country for $12000 and you are talking $8000 spend + many heartbreak days. Get a second job and save the extra cash.

Really impossible to say, you are in' how long is a piece of string' territory. But i'm old, my days of young and brave are over.

Check any purchase for rust very very carefully, if you have any doubts take someone competent with you. Especially check entire and I really mean entire boot area for rust and/or bog. Check entire underside particularly sub frame mounting points. This is not an undertaking that should be taken lightly, you are about to take the HARD road. I speak from experience. Good Luck you are gonna need it. You will spend far more than the car is worth. Save up and buy a registered goer.

Also check the overflow hose and spout are not blocked, mud wasps are bastards.

the spring loaded inner part of the rad cap seals in the lower surface and the top of the cap seals against the top lip that over pressure outlet is in the right spot. You have another problem methinks. Is the spring loaded low section actually firmly touching the lower surface? Is the upper rubber seal seated properly in the cap. Remember the a/c condenser gets mucho hot so a/c fan is blowing more hot air thru the radiator on a hot day at standstill.

The most basic thing to check does the spark plug work!!!

No, have you checked No: 6 cylinder output from ecu (blue/white wire) its even worth checking the ignitor ground.

well there you go answers at your fingertips