RB25Detonator

Thanks guys! I blew compressed air into the sides of the shim and underneath the bucket through the tiny hole and then with a magnet on the shim, pulled it off.

I know theres heaps of info on cleaning hydraulic lifters but theres nothing on solid lifters. Im currently taking apart my RB25DET Neo head and thought i could give the solid lifters a bit of a clean. But I want to check here first about how to go with taking them apart before I break them. Or is it not ment to be taken apart?

This stuff right?

What sealant do you guys use on welch/core/freeze plugs on your RBs? I'm in the process of building an RB30/25 and I can't seem to find any answers on here. I have bought brand new brass welch plugs. Apparently you have to use a special silicone sealant? I read somewhere on here that someone said loctite 504. Then I read somewhere els on the interweb (on other engines) that someone said permatex no. 3, and stag. LS motors have special ones that they buy from GM i think. I bought a nissan gasket kit and got nissan fluid gasket which i'll be using on the water pump. Do you also use it on the oil pump (+gasket) and oil pan?

Yeah. If the bores were 86.5 with that pit, i would have gone back and told them to clean it up by taking another .5mm off to make it 87mm. But these bores are already 87mm and i dont even know if there are 87.5mm pistons out there for RB30 (and if there are, i bet their expensive). Plus ill be left with about 3mm of cylinder wall thickness. So yeah your right, would be expensive journey. This is a cheapish build for street use. The hypatec pistons and rings only costed $300. Using stock rods, crank with collar and neo head with usual bolt ons. Will be limiting revs to 6500 and will probably only expect 250-300kw with usual bolt ons. Its ment to be my daily for driving to and from work ect... that i want to last for a long time as i dont have time to open it up again. But i guess im just going to go ahead with the build and just be prepared to open it up again (hopefully not). If the rings catch onto that gouge/pit, what items should i expect to get raped? Will crank and bearings still be ok? I would imagine it would shatter the rings and probably the piston and bore (hopefully wont lock rotating assembly?) I dont really mind if bores get damage cos blocks are cheap. Thanks guys for your inputs!

Can anyone confirm this?

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0.04mm clearance which is just above the minimum clearance of those hypatec pistons of 1.5thou. I've left my machinist an email. Just waiting on what they'll say. So theres no other option than reboring it right? No one's tried a little tac weld then grind down with dremal and rebore/hone? Lol bare with me, this is my first engine recon and im just trying to lay out some options

It sits 70mm down the bore. The pit is 0.1mm deep. Bores have been machined with a piston to wall clearance of 0.04mm to run my hypatec RB30ET 87mm pistons. fml. dont know what to do at this point...

Aw shiet. I was kinda thinking it would be. JB weld it by smearing small layers on the pit? Lol I really dont wanna rebore it again. Im gonna measure how deep it is today with a dail bore gauge and see what my machinist have to say

Hi guys. I got my RB30 block back from the machinist like 3 weeks ago. I just started cleaning the bores and noticed a tiny gouge (what ever you call it) in one of my bores. The block had a rebore of +1mm to suit 87mm pistons and torque plate hone. Originally it was going to have a +0.5mm rebore but machinist called me up saying the scores were too deep to clean the bores up so then I had to purchase +1mm oversized pistons and they bored and honed to that. I can feel it definitly with my finger nail. I reckon it's about 0.2 or .1mm deep probably. I'm worried now. I want this build to last years as it will be my daily streeter. Will this cause damage to my rings and/or cylinder bores?

No you don't have to. You can download the Nistune software from their Software Downloads page and you will get free 4 day trail. Then get a nissan consult cable from ebay or something. Check what your throttle position is on the TPS. You can check it on the nistune software

Yeah, my leak was only coming out of the internal wastegate. The other hissing noises in the background is my shitty air compressor leaking. When I connected my stock nissan internal wastegate, there were no boost leaks. I can't believe I've been boosting with the gate stuck in the closed position. It actually runs shit now haha. Can't boost past 6psi because the gate can now open. I'll try preloading the arm even more. I reckon this was a major cause of why my engine has low compression. O-welll, I'm chuckin a RB30 in it soon

Yeah, I took the arm out of the wastegate and bend it by putting a pipe over it and then jamming the other end into a something els (my stock strut bar lol).

Also, here's a pic of how it looks like inside the Mamba internal waste gate. You can see the O-Ring sitting inside the cap on the left. The steel bucket sits inside that cap

Ok, I've figured out what was causing the boost leak in the wastegate. Turns out that my actuator arm was sitting on a funny angle when connected to the turbo's gate, forcing the air to push past the o-ring in the wastegate. I've attached a video to show what I mean. So in the video, I've connected compressed air straight into the wastegate with the arm disconnected and testing the operation of the wastegate with no air leaks. Then I connect the arm onto the turbo's gate with no pre load and blew air into the wastegate and it then fouled on the turbo's outlet (something to look out for). Then I rotated the arm slightly so that it won't touch the turbo's outlet and when I blew air into the wastegate, it leaked air past the o-ring because of the arm being pulled to one side. I've got it working now without any leaks. I actually took the actuator arm out of the wastegate and bend it to where it wants to be. And then I tested with the arm connected to the gate and it operates freely now with no leaks. I suggest to everyone to test your internal wastegate's operation by connecting compressed air directly to it. IMG_0795.mp4

I've got a brand new Mamba Adjustable Internal Wastegate on my highflow RB25 turbo. I did a boost leak test and it leaks a lot of air from the wastegate's diaphragm out through the hole that the wastegate has. I've attached a video showing the massive boost leak. My question is, Is it suppose to leak air like this? The stock nissan wastegate doesn't have a hole that leaks air out of the wastegate. Maybe the hole is there to save the engine? I don't know.... I have a EBC that uses a mac solenoid. My second question is, there ment to be air going through the mac solenoid if the car is off or EBC switched on? If not, then I'll know my EBC or mac solenoid is stuffed. IMG_0792.mp4

So you want a GTT front bar on a R34 GTR? Sorry I'm trying to figure out your post. I have the Type R R34 GTT body kit from Viva Garage (based in Melbourne) which looks like the front bar in your pic. Here's a photo of the Type R kit from their FB. For some reason, their website is under maintainance but I'm sure you can contact them via FB. It looks the same exept for the vents on the side of the front bar, but you can cut ones out if you want. I'm pretty sure you can buy the front bar seperate. It cost me $1000 for the whole kit and was a bit of a pain to fit. Alot of hours went into sanding to make it sit flush with the fender ect... and you have to drill your own holes and paint it. It also comes with a bonnet lip incase you want to fit the GTR bonnet on it, but I'm pretty sure GTR fenders are different to GTT fenders, so GTR bonnet won't fit on GTT? idk

Hi all, I want to know what are some good engine machinists that you guys have gone to get work done on your RBs. I'm currently building a RB30/25DET Neo and I want a machinist that has experience and knowledge in RB engines. Thanks.

Thanks for the feed back! I also have an R31 PDF manual that says the standard oil clearance is 0.02mm to 0.047mm for an RB30E and that the limit is 0.09mm, and standard big end/conrod oil clearance: 0.011mm to 0.035mm with a limit of 0.09mm. So if I were to "Blue print" an RB30E, I would stick with those standard clearances right? But I'm building a RB30 with a 25DET Neo head (about 8.3:1CR) , with highflow turbo, nistune, bigger injectors, fuel pump, FMIC, 3" exhaust blah blah blah... that's gonna demand more HP than stock which means bigger oil clearance right? That's what I've read, or maybe I'm wrong. I also read somewhere a while ago that the rule of thumb is 1thou of oil clearance per inch of journal diameter? I don't know! That's why I just wanna clarify to which oil clearances to run. I would totally go with genuine nissan but I heard their bearings are bi - metal instead of ACL's being tri - metal (plus ACL is reasonably priced). So, If I go with standard ACL bearings and get an oil clearance of about 0.066mm on the mains and go with HX ACL bearings on the big ends and get an oil clearance of about 0.079mm, it would still be all good? Nissan lists the oil clearance limit as 0.09mm. But then the thing that I don't get is why ACL has a min and max on the tunnel and journal shaft sizes. If you calculate ACL's oil clearance using their max tunnel and min journal shaft using standard bearings for the mains, you get 0.053mm for the max oil clearance, and 0.044mm on the big ends.

Hi guys. Feel free to delete this post if it's already been asked but I cannot find anything on google showing how people calculate the oil clearance without bearings installed. I have an idea of how to, but I just need someone to confirm my calculations for my bearing/oil clearances before I buy the bearings. This is my first ever build and first ever RB30/25. I've never done something like this and I'm trying to do as much labour as I can before I send it to the machinists to save $$, so bare with me. I have measured the journals with a micrometer and mains + big end tunnels with a bore gauge (without bearings installed). I'm going to be using ACL Race bearings for mains and big ends. I need to know what bearings to choose for my desired oil clearance. Now here's the thing. By looking at the ACL RB30 bearings spec page, the thickness of 1 standard big end bearing shell is 1.503mm. Am I correct?. And 1 main shell = 1.827mm. So, if I were to go with a 0.025 oversized bearings, the thickness of one 0.025 big end bearing shell would be: 1.503 + (0.025/2) = 1.5155mm. Correct? Because it's adding 0.0125mm on each shell to make the diameter of the 2 shells 0.025mm bigger right? And thickness of one 0.025 main bearing shell would be 1.8395mm. Ok, so calculating oil clearance would be tunnel OD minus the thickness of 2 bearing shells, then minus the crank shaft's ID to get oil clearance right? So, for example my #1 main tunnel OD = 58.682mm. If I used standard main bearing, the thickness of 1 shell is 1.827mm. My #1 main crankshaft journal ID = 54.962mm. So calculating the oil clearance would be 58.682 - (1.827x2) = 55.028 - 54.962 = 0.066mm of oil clearance which equals to about 2.5 thou. If I were to use 0.025 oversized then I would calculate it like: 58.682 - (1.8395x2) = 55.003 - 54.962 = 0.041mm of oil clearance (1.6 thou). So calculating all my oil clearances using standard bearings on the mains would be 0.057mm to 0.077mm (2.2thou to 3thou) of oil clearance. Big ends oil clearance using standard bearings = 0.032mm to 0.053mm (1.2thou to 2thou) Calculating oil clearance using 0.025 oversized bearings: Mains = 0.032mm to 0.052mm (1.2thou to 2thou). Big ends = 0.007mm to 0.028mm (0.3thou to 1.1thou). Calculating oil clearance on big ends using HX (thinner bearing shell thickness of 1.49mm) would be = 0.058mm to 0.079mm (2.3thou to 3.1thou). Another question I have is what would be the best oil clearance for an RB30/25DET Neo that will only be used for street use with about 300kw (max) with a crank collar and RB25neo oil pump limiting the revs to 6500 or 7000rpm (with the correct oil restrictions in block). I might shim the oil pump spring to give it more pressure if needed. My goal is just a responsive and reliable streeter engine that will last years. I've read somewhere that someone qouted Qubes saying that he recommends 2.5thou oil clearance on the mains and 2.2thou on the big ends for RB30s. Can someone confirm this? So should I go with standard ACL Race bearings on the mains and standard on the big ends or HX on the big ends (3.1thou max though?). Thanks.

Nevermind, I got the size. The thread is the same size as the turbo oil drain. 3/4" BSP male fitting with a 19mm barb (for R34 neo heater hose). Am I right?

Hi all, Does anyone know what the thread and pitch size is for the Heater hose (return I think?) fitting/attachment that threads into the block. I assume all RBs have the same thread on these? I've uploaded a pic of it (block is upside down). It sits on the intake side near the top rear of the block. I'm doing up a RB30/25. As we all know, you have to swap out the RB30 one and put the 25 one in there because the 25 has only 1 barbed outlet for the heater hose. I had to grind the old one out of the RB30 with a dremel because it was rusted on there so badly, and thinking the RB25 one will be the same, I just want to get a brand new one. If anyone could tell me the thread and pitch size of this fitting (or even better, the Nissan part number!) that would be much appreciated for me and everyone els looking for this in the future, because I've tried googling, and googling and nothing. Thanks!

If I were you right now, I would comp test the engine to check its health but it's probably farked from the looks of it. I'm probably putting my money on head warpage/gasket. Those things you listed looks pretty easy to replace (to me). You should try looking for second hand parts on gumtree and FB market. Theres sometimes some cheap stuff on there (for example if someone decided to upgrade their radiator to aftermarket then they usually sell the old orignal one for like $50) I find auto r34 clusters to be way cheaper than manual ones (just not sure about odometer swaping over to other cluster. Anyway there is a trick to put the cluster in dianostics mode (or something like that) and it puts the needle dails on the default position (RPM will go to like 2500 or something then just turn it to the default position with your finger, check the r34 workshop manual lol i cant remember) On the plus side it does have a dfecent body kit and paing job (not like those ricey bomex kits out there)

I assume you have the breather pipe and bov plumb back pipe blocked that comes out of your stock intake pipe. Try blocking it closer to the turbo, for example, block it before it enters the intercooler. or, enter smoke right after the turbo and block off the same as your picture^^