Sambo33

I'll take one, if theres enough? Cheers Sam

keep up the good work with the posting guys!

wow, over 1500 replies to this thread!

looks good!

no probs mate, glad i could help, they look heaps better than stockers

Ahh, ok, makes sense

hey Chapman, sorry its off topic, but what does TIN mean on you plates?

Yep my skyline does this too. In my case it is missing teth off the power window regulator, which makes a rattling/grinding sound at regular intervals. I just need to go buy another one from a wreaker.

Should fit up no problems. I notice aftermarket skirts for R33 always fit both S1 & S2.

your bro's car?

yeah, im good thanks Damn cold, rained all afternoon too

hey there duc :wavey:

nice

My old silvia had a bodykit and that used to scrape on any driveway. My R33 doesnt have a bodykit, it seems to scrape the exhaust on most driveways, the bottom of the FMIC will scrape on serious driveways. Yep, i do the angle trick too, and in general just drive really slow.

So WRX wipers clip in place of the nissan ones with no probs? where abouts did you get the WRX ones and at what price? Cheers, Sam

Are they the Skyline Genuine mats? What condition are they in? Cheers, Sam

yeah, thats a bit of a tricky question. i'm not totally up to speed with the way pricing is done, i just put the paint on the cars . I know that there was a 180SX done by a shop here in SA in harlequin, and all up the price was about $15K. With my own pricing, i havent really got anything solid. My main problem is access to a spray booth. My boss is reluctant to let me even do my own stuff in his booth, he fears that it looses him business. I've tried painting 2K in the shed a few times, and it doesnt work too well, all sorts of dirt, rubbish, bugs land in the paint. But yeah, have a think about it and let me know what you wanna do.

The wiper blades themselves have this weird hook and clip system on them, ive had a look at a few non-geniune ones and none of them would be compatible. It would make things easier if i could do it that way, but it doesnt look like it'll happen.

Definately, its way quicker to use an orbital hand sander. the only down side to this is the panels will look all rippley when you look at them on an angle. Using a block or a file with the correct method will give that nice straight look to a panel

Ill have a look at the paint on your R34 for you when it gets here, chances are a buff & polish will bring up the paint like new. Yep, its possible to do that Ive noticed that nissans solid black are done in clear over base, so that would be an option, my only problem with doing this is although the paint will be nice and glossy any minor dents will show up even more The harlequin itself is actually a transparent layer put down over a black base. seeing as you car is black already, that would act as a base. so steps would be - light sanding/scouring of existing paint, 2 coats of harlequin layer, 2 coats of clear. I would definately recommend that all minor dents are repaired in this situation, the smallest of panel imperfections will ruin the look of a harlequin job. Hope that helps you out a bit, will give you a few options to think about anyway. Sam

paint codes, alright you got 3 choices, LP2 - Midnight Purple (as found on the R33 GT-R) LV4 - Midnight Purple 2 (R34 GT-R) LX0 - Midnight Purple 3 (also R34 GT-R)

the list goes on...

plus about 2lt of clear, plus hardner, plus thinners...

i used 2 litres of base to do my exa, but i didnt paint the front and rear bars, so at least 3LT for a 180

half right duc, any air compressor should be able to turn the paint into a mist, its jsut the compressor will need to have enough puff to do a whole car. with my old compressor (2.0HP) i had to stop spraying 4 times (painting a bonnet) to let it build up more pressure.