Old man 32 GTR

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back.

That wasn’t even 100% throttle and was insane (makes me want to get one) but they are loud and I don’t think the video does the noise justice. it all comes down to what you want to do with the car, if the car is just for the occasional morning run with the boys and you like roll/drag racing, sequential is perfect, and the best pick of your sequential options is the Albins. But, if you’re questioning the noise, then it’s probably not for you. if you’re going to be doing any decent drives in the car (2-3hours), there will be a point where it goes from, “this sound insane” to “I have a migraine” and you can’t turn it off or turn it down, there’s no volume control, it’s always there.

My 6 boost is divided right through

Yep, I had a brand new set of Noltec rear subframe bushes that came with my 32 when I bought it, when I was doing the rear subframe, I considered using them, I opened the packet and they were all cracked, and they started to fall apart when touched, and these had never been fitted to a car, just fell apart with age I guess. I fitted white line rear subframe bushes in mine, but it’s a while off driving so can’t comment on what they are like. my rear is a mix of white line and Nismo,

Congrats, not long now till you’re enjoying it again

Good luck with it, nut and bolt restoration is a deep rabbit hole to be jumping into. you keeping the bay factory matte or matching body colour?

Spent the day at n the car, dismantling the interior, removed the steering rack and replaced the rubber boot, at first I thought I got the wrong part as the one on the car was solid, but then crumbled when I removed it. Was a mission to change, got my dash pad out as well as the heater core, I got a new core and boost doc fittings to replace the factory plastic ones. the dash bar looks clean but as I have an illness I’ll be taking it to be blasted and clear coated before refitting it. Will take the opportunity to try to clean up the wiring and make sure everything is hidden.

Looking good, meanwhile I’m here like…

Hope this helps needed a reason to use my new toy

I need that shed in my life, all I could fit in my yard was a 6 x 3, it’s nice, but not big enough. and I got a 22 year old son that’s also into cars, so I got his shit as well as mine. we just installed billet drive shafts into his turbo BRZ. So tomorrow he can help me get the dash pad out of the GTR

And talk about targeted advertising! Lol

I’ve tried your first suggestion, still is super tight. I’ve got 4 x new nuts that are the same so I could destroy a couple if needed. if I get off work early one day next week I’ll try a truck supplies shop and see how I go with the die, if I can’t get it sorted before hand. I wish the shop told me there was an issue, I would have got it sorted while the shafts were out of the car!

This is what I thought, wouldn’t thread stretch only be thread behind the nut, and it’s the same on both sides. Can someone confirm is the front and rear thread pitch and size the same? Because I was told they are different but the nuts I bought go perfectly on the front shafts, but if you check the part number, they are listed as rear. I’ll head out to total tools tomorrow and grab a thread gauge, or are the generic ones useless? this is the thread file I got, was the only one they had in metric.

Having a slight issue with the rear shafts in the GTR. Car 92 R32 GTR min the course of my build I had the rear shafts sent away and rebuilt, now when removing them the shop told be they had trouble getting the nut undone and one of them was destroyed, the other is rounded off, I bought a set of replacement nuts locally, but they didn’t fit and I was told I need GTR specific nuts, so I ordered genuine rear hub nuts from Kudos, these came from Japan, problem… they still don’t go on, I’m thinking maybe the thread has been damaged possibly from over tightening. I can get the new nut to start, but it’s really tight. I took the original nut that came off to a nut/bolt shop to see if they could supply a new one but they had nothing in that size/thread pitch. the original nut that came off does go back on but it also a little tight and does not wind on easily. I then went to total tools to get a thread cleaner, but they don’t stock anything in that size, I ended up buying a thread file and will have a go at using the file to clean the thread. Am I missing something? Is there a different nut I need? My next step is to go to a drive shaft shop and see if they have a nut that works/fits. Or is it Most likely the thread is stretched/damaged? By eye, the thread looks fine I’ve attached some pics, you can see on the new nut the thread has been damaged from trying to force it on. cheers

Cerakote is the coating, plastics are vapour blasted, dried then the coating applied, I think it’s basically sprayed on, (I’m not 100% sure on this) the coating thickness is 30 microns. There are two types of coating, one must be backed and the other is air cure, which is what they use on plastics and anything else that can’t go in the oven.