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Old man 32 GTR

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Everything posted by Old man 32 GTR

  1. Welcome, looks like you got bit, hard, GTR’s have a way of draining your wallet. best thing to do is park it up, like you have, and have a good think about what you want out of this car, once you have direction. Then you can set about sourcing parts and getting it back together. my advice, don’t skimp on anything or you’ll end up paying two or three times to get what you want (I’ve been through that a couple of times ?) as a start Z1 motorsports in the states sell some engine parts at really good prices. They do an N1 crank for $550usd good luck, look forward to reading your updates
  2. A change in direction with the fuel set up on my car means my previous set up is no longer needed. Set up consists of a Radium surge tank which can house up to 3 pumps. Is currently set up for two pumps. Was running two Walbro 460’s. Teflon braided E85 compatible fuel lines. All lines are there to run from fuel tank to surge tank and surge tank to fuel rail. All fittings included and all fittings are Speedflow. Also fitted with in line Aeroflow serviceable fuel filter. Will also come with wiring loom which includes relays and fuses to power two pumps. Set up was in the car for around 18 months. DOES NOT COME WITH FUEL PUMPS. $1200ono . Pick up from Harrington Park, Unfortunately, not sure I can post this due to what it is, unless I can clean it out really well.
  3. Got a couple of things to sell from my recent round of mods. Got a carbon fibre front timing cover, good condition, I did notice when I was taking photos one of the mounting tabs is cracked. But did not affect how it mounted. $50 Got a set of used ARP 2000 head studs. Might be good for someone. $100 BM50 brake master cylinder, used but in good condition, no leaks $150 Precision 44mm external gate with screamer pipe, got an 18psi spring in it. $200 Hypertune R35 coil pack billet bracket with stalks and mounting hardware. (NO COIL PACKS OR LOOM) with this kit you can’t fit the valley cover. Bracket is anodised black. $300 Open to offers on everything. Pick up Harrington Park or I’m happy to post, just hit me up for a postage quote.
  4. Looking at the flip side of the coin, even the gtst’s are going up in value. So you’re not going to completely loose out on what you throw at it. If you really like the car, keep it, build it exactly how you want it and enjoy it. But if you’re going to go through the process of an engine build, might be worth buying a cheap run around. I think you’ll get board of the 370, there’s something special about an RB
  5. The gsb hubs are fairly cheap and come complete with studs, bearing etc, so is worth doing, if you’re going to track it, you should get the adjustable arms, the hard race stuff is fairly cheap, but just Jap do their own called zzs or zzr, something like that, I’ve heard it’s made at the same factory as the hard race stuff but it’s a little cheaper. best thing is go through that parts list shooter posted and start looking up stuff and see what options you have for your car. If you get stuck or are unsure about something, ask here, someone will be able to help
  6. Are you building it back to standard or did you want to modify/improve it? Im building a rear end for my R32. I’m using Whiteline bushes and sway bar, GSB hubs and hard race adjustable arms, that is, lower control arm, camber arms and traction rods. I’m not sure if your car has HICAS but Ive ordered the GK Tech hicas elimination kit for mine
  7. And the c127 has built in shift lights, but as with anything motec, if you want a custom set up like the first photos you need to buy the software which can get expensive. But worth it in my opinion
  8. There are a few companies that do the cluster inserts, Mako motorsports, Hypertune. The bottom pic is my mates R32 GTR. He is running the motec dash with an Emtron ecu
  9. You don’t have to go the 12’ dash. Most go for the smaller one as it’s actually a better fit and can still do some pretty cool things. You can also buy cluster inserts so it will replace your factory cluster and it works with any ecu. Haltec, link etc
  10. What dash are you going?
  11. Hi mate, unbelievably clean car, looks very nice. Can I ask, What made you go with the Albins? I’ll be pulling the trigger on a new box towards the end of the year if all goes well. Can PM me if you like.
  12. For me, it’s to fill the space where the battery sits once it’s relocated to the boot. Benefits are better and more consistent Fuel pressure, as the lines from the pumps to the rail are now significantly shorter. The rear of the car reverts back to standard with the only mod being the rubber lines upgraded to something e85 compatible. So no more aftermarket lines from the rear of the car to the front. I never had this issue but also for set ups that suffer from fuel smell in the cabin, this eliminates that. The only downside you might be able to argue is would the tank suffer from heat soak from engine bay heat? I can’t see this being an issue with where it’s mounted, on the cold side of the motor and furthest away from the motor. And it doesn’t just sit in place, it’s mounted in place so can’t move. What are your thoughts on it Ben?
  13. Custom shroud and 16’ Spal fan. And the battery is being relocated to the boot with a under bonnet surge tank being fitted. All the aftermarket wiring and relays are being removed and it will all be controlled via a PDM. I also bought a PRP coil pack bracket and stalks so I will be able to fit the valley cover back on, it’s been coated and fitted with a new R34 ornament plate.
  14. Slowly coming along, progress shot
  15. Well might be time for an update, I’ve been in a bit of a shopping spree, bought a set of factory seats, factory Jap spec seat belts, genuine diff housing, numerous genuine nuts, bolts, clips, etc. Got new rear quarter upper trims as well as a few other bits and pieces for the interior. I’ve got almost all the parts I need to start the new rear end set up. Bought a new Whiteline sway bar kit. Whiteline subframe bushes and the GK Tech hicas elimination kit and subframe brace kit. Got a GTR diff housing yoke and new ring and pinion gear. Got my hands on a second hand set of 31 spline stub axles and will be using a quaife centre. Car is still at the shop, has had quite a bit done, brakes are done, now fitted with brembos front and rear, callipers overhauled with new seals etc. Blasted and re coated. N1 brake line kit fitted and abs deleted. Coil overs were removed and sent away to be serviced, new seals etc. Hard pipes are done and coated (no more silicone joiners) front cover of the turbo has been hydro dipped. I’ve ordered a new front lip from concept garage, should pick that up tomorrow. If you’ve read the thread, the car was towed to the shop, initially thought a fuel pump failure, have since discovered its wiring. Basically, it’s a bit of a mess so we’ll be ripping it all out and fitting a pdm. I’m also discussing option with the fuel system set up. Looking at moving the battery to the boot and fitting a surge tank where the battery normally sits. Will be exactly like this setup. This will get rid of the surge tank in the boot and the lines from the rear of the car. there is probably stuff I’ve missed, it’s been a little full on with it and I’ve got GTR parts all over my house! Lol
  16. Can it be registered? Can you let me know the details and price. I know someone who is chasing a roller. cheers
  17. I’m guessing PRP block brace? -5’s are nice if you want to stay twins, but since it’s out... a single turbo conversion with a precision 64/66 would be even nicer. ? welcome aboard
  18. With the 68/70 turbo, 770hp @ 32psi boost
  19. this is my cam specs and my car feels strong down low, and really strong up top, nice idle and comes on nice, the 68/70 isn’t a small turbo, but isn’t big either. From about 2500rpm, if you roll on the throttle it will build boost fairly quick.
  20. Hi Jet240, going to be an awesome ride, love the 240. Anyway in regards to your question, my GTR with a built 26/30 was running oversized valves on one side and standard on the other, however I think mine was oversized on the inlet side, this setup was being run with Kelford 270 cams with 9.8mm lift. Was very responsive on both my twin set up (which was a pair or -5’s and my 68/70 single set up. Recently I had the head serviced and we replaced the valve train, went 1mm oversized on both sides and camtech 278 cams with 10.8mm lift, response stayed basically the same however the top end improved dramatically, engine Revs really freely now. I think the higher lift really helped and there wasn’t a lot of difference between staggered oversized valves and all oversized, from what I could feel, also it wasn’t just the valves that were changed so there could be other contributing factors. But that’s my experience with it. Also turbo choice, with the 3.0 bottom end opens up your options, even with the 68/70 it’s quite responsive, but you could hit your target hp with a 64/66 and be really snappy
  21. Could be TPS or a wheel speed sensor? But I imagine it would have thrown a code if it was. Do you have a torque split controller?
  22. I’ve already bought an r32 rear end, but I’ll look into the s13 subframe, but isn’t it the knuckle that would need to change?
  23. Cheers Dose, unfortunately, due to work, family etc, I don’t drive it nearly as much as I’d like to, since owning it I think the mechanics have seen more of it then I have ? GTR life! Lol the car will be more for spirited mountain runs, putting the wife in it and going up north or down south for a weekend away. Yes, there will be the odd roll racing event, and I will take it to WSID at least once, but those events don’t really interest me much. I’d love to do track/drive days in it but unfortunately due to time restraints that’s unlikely to happen often. if I was to go a solid over rubber, how harsh will the ride get? I guess to give more info, the car is riding on MCA street series coil overs, I had a look under it the other day and it looks to have poly bushes (they are orange) in the sub frame and rubber for the diff mounts. In its current state it’s very compliant and quite comfortable (for a GTR).
  24. Thanks for that, I was referring to subframe bushes, So you suggest poly over oem or rubber. What are the advantages/ disadvantages of going poly over rubber? I’ve watched the motive video, it was kind of what pushed me to go all out on the rear end, that and I’m a little fussy. I’ll be basically tidying up the whole undercarriage. From the engine back, everything will be new or referbed
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