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N155@N

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Everything posted by N155@N

  1. N155@N
    Bump! Fenders now $350 Bumper now $1500
  2. N155@N
    BUMP! NOW $1500
  3. N155@N
    Bump!
  4. N155@N
    Used OEM S1 front bar and S1 front lip for BCNR33 (62022-24U10, 96015-24U10) $1750 Bar and lip are damaged and therefore price is negotiable, so offer away! Brand new through Nissan's heritage program, expect to pay well over $2,500 for a new bar and lip. Damage is as follows: - holes from canards - heavy scrape on right side of lip - medium scrape on left side of lip - medium impact on right side (close to intercooler, check photos) - mesh coming off Damage is repairable! Would still be cheaper to fix and paint this one over buying a brand new one from Nissan! Bar is currently painted in K23 silver. Will NOT come with all mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)! No indicators! Pick up Casey area!
  5. N155@N
    Nismo Rear Fender Cover Set $400 Genuine Nismo part for BCNR33, part number in pictures. Discontinued item! They do require a bit of work, nothing a panel beater can't fix. Unfortunately, does not come with mounting hardware. Nismo advises to use screws to attach to fenders. Open to offers, pick up only in VIC, Casey area! Nismo Rear Bumper (S-Tune) $2000 Genuine old logo Nismo rear bar/bumper for BCNR33! Yes Nismo made these out of FRP (stock bumpers on the other hand are plastic)! No major damage, just some chipping on some edges. Not in the best condition, but your trusty panel beater should be able to make it look new and shiny on your 33! Brand new one from Japan will probably set you back over $2000 (mainly due to shipping), however, due to condition I'm open to offers! Pick up only in VIC, Casey area!
  6. N155@N
    Hey Ben, appreciate the offer but have decided to go with the Just Jap kit. Thanks though!
  7. N155@N
    Yeah that kit should do it. Cheers mate! Its this one:
  8. N155@N
    Yep! Time to find a replacement! Any suggestions? Waiting for responses from Kudos Motorsports and Vega Autosports. Part number 14463PF / 1446324U00 if you wanna help look hahaha. Are there any non OEM alternatives? Ex-Japan is looking like its gonna cost north of $300. Was just about to ask this. Thanks mate will have a look! Besides age, what else could have caused this tear?
  9. N155@N
    Thanks for the reply Ben! Managed to get a pair of small hands to check if the rear turbo wheel was there and functioning, and much the like the front, it's still there and spinning. Don't have the tools and equipment to drop exhaust atm. So as per your advice I proceeded to check intercooling piping for splits, and lo and behold: Gonna get a new one, fit it and test if that solves it!
  10. N155@N
    Hi SAU, Having boost related issue with my BCNR33. Car is making no boost! Triple gauge is registering vacuum, needle moves from negative to 0kg/cm2. Car drives normally, no sputtering or misfiring. AFRs also reading normal. Acceleration feels normal up until 3500rpm or so where you can begin to feel the lack of grunt. No woosh sounds either, just the sound of the HKS mushrooms sucking air. Just a little background on the car: HKS2530s, 2.8, E85, VIPEC V88, ~20psi max boost, 4in Exhaust. Recently had front turbo oil feed replaced by mechanic due to the old one being cracked. Got car back from them on a Sat and it was boosting fine but felt a little underpowered. Didn't drive car again till Wed. This is when is stopped boosting all together. Didn't hear any bang/pop, didn't notice any smoke either. Currently waiting to hear back from mechanic. In the mean time have inspected piping on both hot and cold sides (also checked FMIC piping behind indicator grilles) for potential boost leak, however wasn't able to find anything loose or hissing. Doing a little research on these forums leads me to believe that it could be a blown turbo or a blocked/malfunctioning CAT. All of the posts regarding no boost and blown turbos usually are owners with ceramic wheel turbos, which mine aren't. With my limited mechanical knowledge and tools I've taken as much piping as I can to check the turbos. The front turbo looks okay? It spins freely and has no shaft play. Don't have the tools to check the rear turbo as I can't get that elbow looking thing off to inspect the wheel. I'm yet to inspect the CAT. Question: If one turbos blown will I be getting half the amount of full boost or just no boost at all? Question: What are the chances of the CAT causing the absence of boost? I assume it would have been the ceramic wheels dropping into them. But again, I'm certain I don't have ceramic wheels. Question: What do you reckon is causing no boost? Appreciate any and all help!
  11. N155@N
    STROKER KIT SOLD!
  12. N155@N
    Hi SAU, As the title states, need cable to connect my ECU to my laptop. It's a USB to CAN LTW (6 pin circular) type cable. Below is what I'm talking about I'm located in Casey area of VIC. Prefer local as we all know how the post is going right now. Need it asap. Will even pay just to borrow it for a few days if you have one but not for sale. Need it to programme new link CAN gauge. Cheers
  13. N155@N
    Hi SAU, So I was replacing the old center console coin tray with a new cup holder/tray in my BCNR33, when I came across this device wired into the ATTESA g-sensor. Anyone know what it is/does? The wires connected to a fog light switch, I don't have fog lights. There's also a hole in the switch for an orange LED (not pictured). This LED would always blink whenever the car would start (not sure if pictured) then would turn of after a while (<2mins). The previous owner said it could be a 4wd controller, though he said he never touched it. I touched it of course, did absolutely nothing (nothing I could discern anyway). Last picture attached isn't mine, but it's what the three wires and orange LED connected to. The small black box I'm holding in the first pic has rotatable knob labeled fuse otherwise it had no other features or labels on it. It was connected to the sensor and to the fog light. I cant remember if it was connected to anything else.
  14. N155@N
    SOLD
  15. N155@N
    Bump, open to offers!
  16. N155@N
    Out of production MCA purples for R33 or R34 GTR, in need of a rebuild as they are knocking and leaking. MCA rebuild costs around $200 per corner, so buying these then rebuilding would still total less than new equivalents (MCA Pro Comfort). When new, they were comfortable on the streets, but still provided enough performance to enjoy a spirited drive. Springs are as follows: Front = 180mm 12kg Rear = 220mm 5kg Willing to ship, but prefer pickup $500
  17. N155@N
    IKEYA ARMS SOLD ALL ITEMS SOLD
  18. N155@N
    SOLD
  19. N155@N
    SPARCO SEAT SOLD
  20. N155@N
    $150.00 for the lot Brackets suit R32, 33, and 34 GTRs (and anything with same bolt pattern). Ebay spec brackets with universal rails. Removed from my BCNR33, was using a Sparco bucket seat. Listing is for: 1x RHS bracket 1x LHS bracket 1x Universal rails Feel free to contact for more details/photos. Located in Casey area. Can ship at your cost.
  21. N155@N
    pm'd
  22. N155@N
    BUMP! Ikea parts now $500 ($250ea) Seat Now $1900
  23. N155@N
    Sparco DTM Dry Carbon Fiber Bucket Seat $2000 Very rare bucket seat from a Porsche 997 GT3. Very light weight due to its dry carbon construction. Very luxurious with Alcantara suede and leather. Unfortunately, I only have ONE SEAT! Despite it's luxury materials, it weighs only 8-9kgs, so its ideal for someone in motorsport chasing as much weight reduction as possible. Being a bucket seat it definitely holds you in place during spirited/hard driving, the suede also helps grip your body. However, unlike Brides and/or other brands this seat isn't trying to suffocate you. Its perfect for taller and wider individuals. Comes with Cobra branded mounts. Over all the seat is in good condition, the actual seating part is very clean. The carbon has scratches as you can see in the photos. Also some scrapes on the leather below the thighs (see last photo), although not visible when installed, would say this is the worst part of the seat. Removed from my BCNR33, as I'm going in a different direction for my interior (inquire for pics of the seat in my GT-R). Additionally I've got rails and a pair of brackets (one for driver and another for passenger) to suit Skyline GT-Rs also for sale. Rails for $50, and the pair of brackets together also $50. Item located in Casey area, can arrange to meet elsewhere PRICE NEGOTIABLE, NO SHIPPING, PICKUP ONLY! 33/34 GT-R Ikeya Formula Tension Rods and Front Upper Link (negative camber type) $600 ($300 each) Will only fit BCNR33 and BNR34! Ikeya's parts are probably the best for aftermarket adjustable suspension parts for JDM cars, especially Skyline GT-Rs. Bushings on the upper camber arms look to be in good condition. The rose joints on the tension rods look to be in good enough condition. Selling as I've upgraded to Ikeya's pillow adjuster link set arms and roll center adjuster lower arms. Items located in Casey area, willing to post (you pay for shipping), PRICE NEGOTIABLE!
  24. N155@N
    Hi SAU, As the title states; looking to buy some Ikeya adjustable suspension parts for my R33 GT-R. Looking for the following: - Roll center adjustable lower arm - Adjustable rear lower arm - Traction adjuster rod Want them to be in good enough or better condition, something that still has life in them: i.e. bushes/joints still good, construction not damaged, surface rust is okay. Buying new is a little expensive with this brand, so I thought why not check the used market before importing new from Japan. Located in VIC. Happy to pay for shipping (whether you're interstate or in VIC due to Covid-19). Brand new, from Japan, would set me back anywhere between $2800 - $3000 (landed), maybe more. Please let me know if you have any or all aforementioned parts for sale. Contact me through here please. Cheers
  25. N155@N
    Located Casey Region in VIC Willing to post interstate only (not internationally). Buyer pays for shipping. NO PAYPAL
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