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eric240sx

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Everything posted by eric240sx

  1. eric240sx
    Hi Everyone, Okay! After adjusting the throttle body, throttle cable, calibrating the TPS, and setting the AAC, I finally got it to idle at 900RPM! It was definately the way the throttle body was reassembled. I had a pretty big gap allowing air past the plate. For anyone that ever has an idle surge/fluctuation issue with an RB25DET, or probably any RB, please do the following: Perform a vacuum test leak. My favorite method is to use a smoke test, but you can use "start yah bastard" fluid around gaskets, vacuum lines, intake manifold, etc. . . Clean Idle Control Valve or AAC (Clean with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or whatever else parts cleaning solution). Also ensure the set screw is properly adjusted to allow air in or to block air out. Turn on the engine and turn the screw in or out to hopefully adjust your idle at the correct RPM. Don't be afraid to turn! Make sure TPS (throttle plate sensor) is between .45 - .48V at idle or calibrated using an aftermarket ECU software Ensure throttle body plate is fully closed, check throttle plate screw. The screw must allow the plate to fully close Ensure your throttle cable is allowing the throttle body plate to fully close, not too tight, not too loose. Thank you everyone for all your help! Looks like all I need now is to dial in my tune. I will be consulting @robbo_rb180 for guidance.
  2. eric240sx
    Correction, I inserted the two bolts and now there is a very very very, like hair wide or less slit on both sides. Before it was a pretty big gap compared to this. I’m excited to try it tomorrow!
  3. eric240sx
    Hi everyone, I ended up running out of daylight, the family came over today. But I was able to remove the throttle body and yes, there was air getting through, I have adjusted the TB screw and aligned the TB plate. This is the current close position. MUCH MUCH better. I put a light behind the TB in a dark room to see how much light was getting through and this is fully closed without biding. It’s just a slit at the top. Is this good? Fun Fact: I tightened the two bolts a little too hard the first time and ended stripping one when removing. I ended welding a screwdriver tip to take it off
  4. eric240sx
    Hi @robbo_rb180, Thank you for taking the time to look at my tune and explain why the timing was ranging. I'm currently at work but once I get home, this is my current plan: 1. Remove the intercooler piping to look at the TB plate to ensure it’s closing properly. 2. Make sure my TPS is set at .45V at close 3. Recalibrate TPS 4. Ensure my throttle cable isn’t too tight 5. Load new tune file and log I'll report back tonight. Thank you all for helping me sort this out. It is never required and yet you take the time to do it.
  5. eric240sx
    Hi everyone, The research and videos I’ve watched, also with @Duncan suggestions, it all seems to point towards the throttle body, TPS, and AAC. But my AAC is working. Plus, after forcefully closing the TB all the way, the engine idled at 900. Tomorrow I will do the following: 1. Remove the intercooler piping to look at the TB plate to ensure it’s closing properly. 2. make sure my TPS is set at .45V 3. recalibrate TPS 3. ensure my throttle cable isn’t too tight I will keep you updated
  6. eric240sx
    Hi @Dose Pipe Sutututu, welcome to the forum! Yes, I have recalibrated my TPS to read 0-100. I’m going to be looking for internal leaks and see if that can repair the issue. This is my current setup. It looks more like an RB26
  7. eric240sx
    This is a good pointer, my base timing is all over the place because my idle is funky. Look like when I cut out all external air supply, it was happy. Hmm. I’ll be researching how to detect internal leaks for the RB as we continue to brainstorm : ) once I achieve a stable idle, I’ll do the timing again. It’s hunting time
  8. eric240sx
    Hi @Duncanand @joshuaho96 So… looks like I read this too late. I rechecked the AAC and it’s 100% in tip-top shape. The bolt Duncan is describing is one I had to remove to paint the outside of the throttle body. For this, I used regular automotive paint, no powder coating. Once I reassembled, I returned the screw to what I thought it was set at. But today, I screwed the bolt on the AAC all the way down, and fully closed the TB, I DEFINITELY felt the binding of the plate. But the car stopped fluctuating and dropped RPM to 900 as @robbo_rb180set it up. It ran as it should, even the air to fuel went to 14.5-14.7at idle. I checked timing at this point and it was running at about 10 degrees, not the 15 I set on the ECU and crank speed timing. Once I changed the offset to match 15 at idle, rpm rested at 1,300 still higher than what @robbo_rb180set. However, the fluctuating stopped. In order to open the throttle body at this point, it did require a bit of a push to unbind the plate and have it move freely. However, as soon as it was free, the fluctuating idle started again. I will be looking for the procedure to appropriately set the scree. Yikes! Not really sure what to do at this point, but I’ll check for internal leaks. Thank you for the video, @joshuaho96!
  9. eric240sx
    Hi! I removed the ACC, going to verify all components are installed correctly. The throttle body doesn’t close fully, it is slightly open. Should it be closed? I can try closing it further. I don’t believe I have a cold start valve, just the AAC.
  10. eric240sx
    Hi Duncan, Yes, I have turned the screw all the way in (currently set at this) and backed it all the way out (increases idle into the 3k rpm). Could I have assembled it back wrong? Any way to test it?
  11. eric240sx
    Hi Everyone, Up to date status: I checked for leaks using a smoke detector. I started by inserting smoke from the turbo intake side, held my throttle body open, and let the pressured (6psi) smoke fill my entire system. There were absolutely no leaks of any kind. I cranked the engine and set it to 15 degrees, then I started the engine and set it at 15 degrees (when cold it doesn't fluctuate), but when it warms up enough, it starts idling from 1,300 up to 2,500 RPM. I also noticed the timing moves with the idle. Maybe the timing isnt set and locked properly? How I set timing: 1. Unpluged TPS 2. Cranked engine without starting until CAS lines up with 15 degrees 3. Plugged TPS back in 4. Turned engine on (has high idle of 2,000rpm) 5. Adjusted timing offset on g4+ to read 15 on timing mark (still high idle) 6. Engine idle starts fluctuating and timing ranges from 10-25. Idle goes down as it approaches 10, idle goes up as it approches 25. I'm not sure how to stop the erradic timing or is it supposed to be that way? Or does that stem from another problem?
  12. eric240sx
    Hi all, I have a guy coming in tomorrow to do a smoke test. Through the research I did, a smoke test will find every leak imaginable if there is any. Hi Robbo, yes, I thought the target idle was WAY too high. Hopefully we can get the tune happy enough to drive it to a tune shop. It’s a different guy this time.
  13. eric240sx
    Adding a picture of the idle control valve for reference
  14. eric240sx
    Thank you! It was a little intimidating but I can officially rule TPS and timing out until the tune. A stable idle is what I’m looking for now. “Start ya bastard” is hilarious! I’ll give that a go tomorrow. I also torqued my intake manifold from Greddy to 14ft/lbs or 19Nm. A little over manufacturer spec since it’s an aftermarket intake. For the idle control valve, I took it apart and cleaned it. Maybe I didn’t assemble correctly? I would think the idle control valve either makes an idle lower or higher but doesn’t actually cause erratic RPMs. But I’m not sure. I will also be double checking connections tomorrow.
  15. eric240sx
    Hi Duncan and Robbo, Okay, I have done the following: 1. Calibrated TPS successfully, I noticed the throttle percentage was at 5% originally, but is now at 0% when closed and 100% when fully opened. 2. Set timing to 15 while cranking, turned the engine on, had to move -86 offset to -80 to read 15 across all RPM range, I would say timing now looks good! The car also seems to stay consistently at 180-190 degrees. Doesn’t seem to overheat anymore. 3. After setting TPS and timing, I did notice the idle start fluctuating from 1,300-2,300 RPM over and over. Like Duncan said, could be a vacuum leak. How do I locate vacuum leaks? Someone said to use a smoke machine, any other things to check? Seems like the issue now is erratic idle. Could intercooler leaks also cause the pulsating idle? Or a sensor, maybe the idle control valve? Anything to check on g4+? IMG_5685.MOV Thank you!
  16. eric240sx
    Woah! Between you and Duncan I feel like I can do anything, haha! Perfect, I will report back. Thank you
  17. eric240sx
    Thank you Duncan for sharing, I have a list of things I will try after work and will report back the state of the car by the end of the day. 1. TPS Calibration 2. Timing 3. Checking for leaks I have also rescheduled a tune for Novemember.
  18. eric240sx
    Hi Robbo_rb180! I think we have conversed on this forum before! I hope you have been well. If it helps, I have attached my tune. As an additional comment, the only change I made from the previous setup was change the turbo exhaust housing from .82A/R to 1.01 A/R. Could this be pushing a lot more air? Should I just schedule a tune? So far, 1. Recalibrate TPS 2. Timing is already set at 15 degrees, offset -86 (what does this parameter mean?), does engine need to be running or can it be done while cranking only? RB25DET_SETUP.pclr
  19. eric240sx
    Currently, these are my timing settings on the g4+ link ECU. I'm currently using cylinder #1 with an extended spark plug cable. Does the engine need to be running to time at 15 degrees or can it be done by cranking only? Yes, I did remove the TPS and put it back how I thought it was removed, however, idle seems to be above 1k rpm and then gets very sporadic. I read the range for the RB should be 4.5-5.2 when closed and 4.1-4.6 when WOT. Also, I did receive an error code of "ECU Fault Code 16: An Volt 3 above error value." Should I set the TPS correctly before timing to 15?
  20. eric240sx
    Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric
  21. eric240sx
    I said the quote totally wrong...
  22. eric240sx
    This is exactly what I am going to do. I am going to pay an RB specialist to disassemble my engine and inspect my internals. I am going to be running an e32 ECU with nistune to tune the engine. "I have money, it's trust and character that I never looking for." -Han ?
  23. eric240sx
    The reason why i find it unlikely for all 6 cylinders to be wall damaged is because there needs to be something thats consistent throughout the cylinders thats causing the damage. If something exterior got in and scratched a cylinder wall it would only be on that one and not all of them. While rings go out together since all they do is seal and if they were installed wrong then they are all going out
  24. eric240sx
    when i finished with the rebuilt, i would keep the car in high rpm when race on the street and events. But whenever I drove normally, i would try to have it at the lowest rpm possible around 2k-3k rpm
  25. eric240sx
    Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?
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