eric240sx
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Everything posted by eric240sx
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I've done some research and I just realized that it is unlikely for all 6 cylinder walls to be messed up all at once, but the piston rings go out together so it has to be the rings. Unless the rings were so bad it damaged the cylinder walls "if you liked it then you shoulda but a ring on it " - Beyoncé
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I feel like the piston rings or cylinder wall are bad
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Very insightful thoughts, when I did my full rebuilt, it was on stock engine and ecu and that's when I raced it. But then the stock setup started burning oil and I foolishly though it was turbo seals and 5k after the upgraded parts, the car is still burning oil. I performed a compression test yesterday, every cylinder had around a 45% compression increase when oil was dropped in there Dry test cylinder 1: 55 cylinder 2: 60 cylinder 3: 70 cylinder 4: 70 cylinder 5: 65 cylinder 6: 70 Wet test cylinder 1: 115 cylinder 2: 135 cylinder 3: 130 cylinder 4: 115 cylinder 5: 120 cylinder 6: 120 Note that the engine has a thicker 1.5 cosworth headgasket
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I would really love to follow your instructions but I haven't tuned my car after installing a bigger turbo so I can't quite go full throttle ? I can idle the car, of course, Im going to redo a compression test and then do the wet test and see if I gain any psi
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I took this picture yesterday when i did the compression test. Left to right is spark plug #1 to spark plug #6. Then the coils correspond to the spark plug beneath. The coil-pack very above is for spark plug #6 Spark plug 3 i broke when removing but i replaced all of them with new ones
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You're right! As soon as I isolate the problem and fix it where it doesn't burn oil anymore, I will be so happy. Afterall, I'm only 16 years old who worked in the fields to afford this 15k project all by myself. Which is why I feel disappointed and frustrated that only 6 months after the built the engine started burning oil. When having new piston rings, do you need to keep the engine in high RPM or low?
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The engine compression is already lower because of the 1.5 cosworth head gasket its running on. When I bought the engine and finished the rebuilt, it was reading 120psi with the thicker head gasket and life was great. I did a full engine rebuilt, it saddens me how its already having problems 6 months later. Hopefully I just installed the piston rings wrong. I will be performing the compression test again tomorrow and then with the wet technique and I will let you guys know what I get thank you for the help so far! oh, and i also doubt it can be cylinder deformation because i read online that the engine wouldn't even run if it was and my engine starts right up and idles normally, its just burning oil on start, idle, and rev
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I did the compression test and got anywhere from 45psi to a max of 75psi... did I do the compression incorrectly? How do you guys do it?
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I feel like it might be the piston rings, which is a bad thing for me becuse I have never replaced pistons rings and I don't want to pay over $1,500 to have it done by a shop I'll do a compression test and start isolating out factors that can't play a role so I can really diagnose the problem At first, I thought it was a bad turbo seal, that's why I changed my setup but it's still doing it The block I have looks healthy and straight but hasn't been tested for cracks, but it was running fine for 6 months, we'll see what happens with the test, I'll do a dry and wet test
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The engine went through a full rebuilt 6 months ago and was mostly just dailing it and did some racing on the street and about one racing event. I'd say probably about 8k km, just to be safe. I put in new pistons and full heavy duty Tomei valve job. The car does have a new oil pump and an oil restrictor on the turbo, I believe it's a 30th thousand and the head gasket on right now is a 1.5 cosworth gasket ill do a compression test today and see what results I get
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RB25DET is burning oil What's up, I am having trouble diagnosing what is causing my rb25det to burn oil. The engine is in a 240sx RHD, the following are the most critical parts of my setup: Great condition GTX3076R Garrett Turbo, new 740cc injectors, new head gasket, Fully built valves, new top mount manifold, new coolant/oil lines, new pistons, bored cylinders, 44mm wastegate, recirculating bov Deleted pcv system due to the rb26det valve cover conversion but I am atmospherically venting from the valve cover Oil weight is 10w-30 synthetic The car was running fine 6 months ago when I got the engine finally running but now it starts smoking as soon as I start it, cold or hot, the piece of misery will start smoking blue smoke. It will smoke as you start it, as you idle, as you accelerate, and especially if you rev it high. There is no oil in the turbo inlet. Please help me figure this out, thanks!