drunken0elf

Going nuts on the oil pump with the short crank doesn't seem like a good option. I like going oem. Oem really suits my style. The worst this car is going to see with me is probably the dyno run. I've yet to rev it past 5krpm lol. and there's another factor. Even though i said otherwise before, I'm really thinking about selling it now. With my new job, I don't have much time anymore. I'd love to go to work with it, but I can't since it's not parked where I live and the insane traffic makes me not want to drive stickshift in a stage 2 clutch car. Stage 2 seems meaningless for aussies so heres the short definition : stiff AF. i love the GTR tho. Trying to make this decision is killing me lol.

Currently making myself a shopping list of oem parts. I decided to not go for a rebuild as the engine sounds great and seems top shape. It got droped off at a guy i know that is quite specialised in R32 GTR. He should be taking the block out next week. So far I'm going for - oem oil pump -oem water pump - oem timing belt kit once the engine is out I asked him to take a look at all the seals and gaskets and to change any that shows signs of wear/leaking and to clean the sensors and injectors. And I will also make him install a turbo timer, and to try to make the horn and right speaker work while he's got it.

R32 OEM Parts question Hey guys. Just double checking since I can't trust ebay that much. is this the real oem oil pump? Like the one the rb26 came with when it left the factory? nissan code : 15010-05U12 And same questions for oem water pump. nissan code : 21010-58S25 obvisouly if they are truely oem they should be a straight up swap.

Hey y'all, I would need confirmation if this is really the 100% oem oil pump. The same that came in the rb26 when they left the factory. Nissan # : 15010-05U12

Tomei is a metal gasket kit. I don't think it's really necessary, but i'm keeping it as an option.

Ok so I revised my list. Tell me if I'm getting stuff confused. 1) N1 Oil pump (Nismo or OEM w\ gears) 2) N1 Waterpump (OEM) 3) Nissan gasket kit 4) OEM Timing belt + pulley kit 5) ARP Rod bolts 6) ARP head stud kit 7) ACL main bearings + rod bearings 8) Tomei gasket kit 9) Eagle h-beam rods (No need since stock is fine for my type of power) *NEW* 9) Sump baffle kit *NEW* 10) Extended crank collar (nitto)

Would nismo oil be a good one?

The oil pump takes a good 45seconds to start working properly, so not a good sign. Either cracked or failing. Would be a good idea to check if anything got damaged by the possible lack of oil and would take advantage of that to replace what needs replacing to make it more reliable/less prone to futur failures. N1 seems to be fine for what I'm aiming for. But I'm open to other alternatives, I'd rather not spend 2k on a oil pump tbh. as a new eater pump, I though the n1 was factory spec. Mind sending me a link to one? ok so if pistons are all good, no need to buy any rods, so no need for the h-beams rods? Thanks for the replies. Monday I'm going to call places that are pretty good with rb26s and ask what they think would be a good course of action for my engine and report back here.

RB26 rebuild, what to change? Hello all. I've searched on said topic quite extensively and haven't really found any definitive answers so I'm just going to make a list of parts and hopefully you guys can tell me what I'm missing or what is not necessary. I'm more looking towards an engine freshen up rather then a complete rebuild so keep that in mind, but I'm preparing for the worst, as my engine is most likely going to be pulled out for an oil pump change so I might as well take advantage of that. *Engine is going to be running stock turbos and 13PSI and won't see any drag or track. Engine currently has like 127500km or something close* here's the list I made. I have no clue if some are only for complete rebuilds or also apply to freshen ups. I'm not really a wrench tbh. 1) N1 Oil pump 2) N1 Waterpump 3) Nissan gasket kit 4) OEM Timing belt + pulley kit 5) ARP Rod bolts 6) ARP head stud kit (is this needed?) 7) ACL main bearings + rod bearings 8) Tomei gasket kit (seems overkill no?) 9) Eagle h-beam rods (some places recommend changing them, others no..., I don't know)

It's a november 1991. From what I've read it's a series 2 with the design upgrades that come with it. according to GTR-registry.com BNR32-214386 GTR (series 2) 1991-11 TH1 Dark Blue Pearl KBNR32RXFS__AA; Interior: G; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13A) Standard; (14A) Standard

If it's an engine out job or prices are stupid high, fk it i'll get it fully rebuilt. Then I'll have peace of mind and be able to park it in the driveway without cardboard underneath. If I don't need a full rebuild, then I'll get the darn leak fixed and get all the straps and pulleys changed. Doubt they've been changed since the car left the factory. as for cash, I do have some but I would of rather not spend a portion of it on an engine rebuild. But hey, I got a new job and I'm doing a lot of overtime. So probably my overtime will pay off everything anyways.

RIP Oil pump. Only reason I didn't blow the engine is because I drive like a granny. FFS, I just feel like selling it and be done with the sky life. I'm bummed as hell right now.

Welcome! Damn, R34 are so darn rare in my province. Good looking car btw. No need for a body kit.

Exactly why he wants to investigate. He's quite good with electronics, so I'm guessing he's going to test the voltage and wiring. Probably will be part of the solution, but it's the darn oil pressure switch that bothers. Does it switch on because it's based of the pressure reading from the other sensor or does it have a reading of it's own?

Got a bit of better news. He's quite busy so only had time to rapidly check the car. The odds that it's the oil pump are low. The oil leak is probably from the powersteering pump or something connected to it (gasket,seal or whatever) and the crappy oil pressure is probably due to the old ass sensors acting up. Waiting for him to get a more in depth look. Guess it's gonna sit there another 3 weeks lol. Oh well. Much rather not drive my car for 2 months then risk blowing up the engine because of a faulty oil pump.

Well f**k. I called the tuner this morning to have some more news. His dyno is ready and everything is set for a dyno run... Except the GTR. The oil pressure is low af. So low that the oil pressure light sometime comes on when it's idling. He doesn't want to dyno it in that state. He's currently investigating to what causes said issue. I'm afraid I have a messed up oil pump and will need to get it replaced. Could possibly explain the oil leak I have. Should have some more news coming.

Well yeah, since I alteady spend my cash buying one Bruh, we've been talking bout moosepower and canadian domestic market air before and you think that was on topic? Things aside, I'm being real impatient getting my sky back so I'm rummaging through the forums to keep busy when I'm not working.

I've been wondering guys, how much would mt GTR be worth in australia? 123000km on the clock, decent paint, paint looks nice but not the best quality, the entire interior is there but both seats have a small rip on the bolsters nearest to the door and it shows its age (wear and tear on the leather parts) Full adjustable coilovers, 18'rims, nicely rolled fenders (looks really good). Rest is 100% stock.

It's the big fan having issues lol. Gotta turn that CDM air to JDM air

Stock gtr wheels are all nice be it r32,3 or 4

Well rip. The results aren't in yet. The tuner is having issues with his dyno. It's s brand new setup/garage and things aren't going as well as he planned. I really want to get it tuned by him since he's concidered the best skyline tuner in quebec.

Yeah like kiwi sais, straight swap it should be. Theres a guy selling a gts4 with rb26 tranny and a rb25det NEO on kijiji. So i'm guessing it should be a straight swap. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/longueuil-rive-sud/nissan-skyline-r32-gts4-1991-4-portes/1287878588?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Welcome! What are the mods?

Sounds like it behaves like its n/a. I sure u got a turbo in there? jokes aside check if you don't have a boost leak or if ur turbo is dead. All i can think off. And AFM like nizmo_man said

Stock rb20det is not a very powerful engine.