oSkylines

well, if the R33 is more reliable in this regard, maybe i am just wildly unlucky. Either way , If im planning on making changes in the near future by way of increasing power , after this week, I want mine off and in a dumpster somewhere. The injectors are the last part im waiting for to upgrade my fuel system at the moment, and then I have to run a few logs for my tune, one of which being a WOT run. Last few times i did my WOTs i was somewhere up in the 130ish mph area... I dont even want to know what would would've happened if my HICAS decided to go rogue on me when I'm doing my WOTs for tuning.

i was just referring to not having to worry about the pumps on the 33 overheating, since its not the hydraulic system and doesnt have the extra fins and pumps and shit running to the back. As for the HICAS being a death trap at one point or another, You have me sold on that. Well you, mixed with the fact that my car tried to do the cupid shuffle on its own , nearly taking out a motorcycle driver ( if it had been moving to the left instead of the right on its random swerve)

if this is accurate with the R33 not having this issue, that is quite good news.

well, i can say an entire subframe swap is not likely something ill get that far into, but I am watching a video right now about the delete kits that essentially just replace the control arms and stuff to lock it into place. So, if the haltech isnt gunna care about the HICAS system if i lock it out, I'll likely just do that then. I did read on one of the HICAS threads that you actually were on ( i think from like 2021) something about pumps potentially overheating or something , so ill have to re-find exactually what was being talked about there for context, but i think it was something along the lines of if you were just blocking things off, whereas if you just delete the whole rear hicas system , there shouldnt BE any pumps to overheat, so unless the concern would be with some other pump somewhere its probably a nonissue. That being said, cant hurt to re-read so i can make sure i dont bugger something up unintentionally out of ignorance.

im in agreeance with you there, Im actively looking at the different kits and what all is into locking it out and getting rid of the light aside from unplugging the bugger. I see tomei has a kit that you can basically falsify the A-OKAY report back to the ECU, and uses shims. I imagine that is probably the way to go, but im checking out my options as we speak.

Well per diagnostic dance , all short boops, so looks like you were right GT, no useful information from the self diagnostic tools .

Im thinking im probably going to be stuck doing the dance and trying to fish the codes out of it, praying it actually gives me one. But like i ( think ) i said, i dont have a code, so i dont know if ill actually get anything meaningful out of it to begin with

since from what i can remember , the computer system stock is OBDI , and obviously i have an aftermarket ECU, but from what i gathered there is a separate computer for HICAS, what are the odds its a somewhat commonplace reader? None of the nissan dealers will touch this car with a 90 foot pole, they are all afraid to break something.

Hey guys, gunna ask the hive mind here about another issue I’m presently dealing with . occasionally I’m running into a feeling with my skyline while driving where it feels almost as though somebody has grabbed the steering wheel and jerked it while driving . I initially thought this was an issue with either the Hicas or Atessa related systems I haven’t touched , and it responding to some aged tires that needed replaced. I am now on brand new appropriately sized tires and just experienced this for the first time last night on my way home from work. I don’t imagine it matters , but it happened when a very loud motorcycle was passing on the passenger side , and it almost felt as though I was in a Tesla and it reacted to the significant noise / object to my passenger side and swerved away from it (thank god , since it was unexpected and if it swerved towards it … we’ll it could’ve been a lot longer of a night for both of us) . While leaving work today, I noticed backing out of my parking spot that something felt… off for the lack of a better word . Like the car just didn’t want to reverse smoothly like it normally does . It didn’t stall or resist, just didn’t seem happy doing it . I did not notice anything on the torque gauge , but with it being unable to be replicated on conditions, it’s hard for me to catch if the gauges were to show anything off of standard in these exacerbations . feel free to chime in with any ideas . Other threads mentioned this potentially being Afm related or shuffle or something but none of that sounds right (haltech doesn’t use AFMs, isn’t the turbo , it’s clearly in my opinion something suspension/dif/ a mount or something ?) but it’s so infrequent and not doing it on breaking or able to be replicated at hard acceleration or anything , it seems to just sometimes do it at a level of steady throttle .

if youre asking josh, idk , but myself, As in the top of the post im running a haltech 2500 system, no upgrade to master cylinder. That being said, i could just be answering out of turn here, i have no idea about joshes setup lol

Of corse if anybody sees any other must haves , or sees anything that really should be done better not mentioned in this thread , feel free to share. Y’all already saved me from the fan, if there is anything else like that I’ll do my best to update and make sure it’s accounted for

I feel pretty decent with my parts list right now though, I’ll have to read about relocating the power steering . And I’ll have to look more at the tensioner stuff , if that’s apparently an issue that should be replaced . Other thing I’ll be considering is the mines cam baffles but I’ll prob just do that later , see how the baffled sump and catch can go first .

I do feel that my stock clutch has a ton of travel before it grabs , and I don’t find it particularly easy to stall either, so I can see what you mean there. Unsure of how much of that is intent and how much is wear, but I have confidence that a twin will be just fine , just was making sure I wouldn’t be in a place where it couldn’t handle the hp. I think the old nismo I was advised against had been a single plate anyway , which is what brought on the anxiety on this part . I feel good about the twin copper mix nismo tho. I’ll likely end up going that route , especially if , per you guys, it feels the most street-able

I assume you missed the part where this was clarified , the order canceled , and a stock fan ordered in its place . I had only ordered this due to a few threads I found that were fan comparisons , with that fan having a decent percentage more air flow measured. That being said , I obviously had not had the entire picture, and as such, when corrected on this matter, proceeded to rectify this The meaningful feedback on a part I was ignorant of was, in fact , the whole reason I made the thread. I still have a lot to learn, and am learning more every day. People like GT explaining these things , allowing me to make changes before purchases or arrival of parts , are what may keep this car from having issues and for THAT I am grateful.

you guys are the best , thanks for the advice these things.