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Everything posted by oSkylines
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R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
well, if the R33 is more reliable in this regard, maybe i am just wildly unlucky. Either way , If im planning on making changes in the near future by way of increasing power , after this week, I want mine off and in a dumpster somewhere. The injectors are the last part im waiting for to upgrade my fuel system at the moment, and then I have to run a few logs for my tune, one of which being a WOT run. Last few times i did my WOTs i was somewhere up in the 130ish mph area... I dont even want to know what would would've happened if my HICAS decided to go rogue on me when I'm doing my WOTs for tuning. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
i was just referring to not having to worry about the pumps on the 33 overheating, since its not the hydraulic system and doesnt have the extra fins and pumps and shit running to the back. As for the HICAS being a death trap at one point or another, You have me sold on that. Well you, mixed with the fact that my car tried to do the cupid shuffle on its own , nearly taking out a motorcycle driver ( if it had been moving to the left instead of the right on its random swerve) -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
if this is accurate with the R33 not having this issue, that is quite good news. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
well, i can say an entire subframe swap is not likely something ill get that far into, but I am watching a video right now about the delete kits that essentially just replace the control arms and stuff to lock it into place. So, if the haltech isnt gunna care about the HICAS system if i lock it out, I'll likely just do that then. I did read on one of the HICAS threads that you actually were on ( i think from like 2021) something about pumps potentially overheating or something , so ill have to re-find exactually what was being talked about there for context, but i think it was something along the lines of if you were just blocking things off, whereas if you just delete the whole rear hicas system , there shouldnt BE any pumps to overheat, so unless the concern would be with some other pump somewhere its probably a nonissue. That being said, cant hurt to re-read so i can make sure i dont bugger something up unintentionally out of ignorance. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
im in agreeance with you there, Im actively looking at the different kits and what all is into locking it out and getting rid of the light aside from unplugging the bugger. I see tomei has a kit that you can basically falsify the A-OKAY report back to the ECU, and uses shims. I imagine that is probably the way to go, but im checking out my options as we speak. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Well per diagnostic dance , all short boops, so looks like you were right GT, no useful information from the self diagnostic tools . -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Im thinking im probably going to be stuck doing the dance and trying to fish the codes out of it, praying it actually gives me one. But like i ( think ) i said, i dont have a code, so i dont know if ill actually get anything meaningful out of it to begin with -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
since from what i can remember , the computer system stock is OBDI , and obviously i have an aftermarket ECU, but from what i gathered there is a separate computer for HICAS, what are the odds its a somewhat commonplace reader? None of the nissan dealers will touch this car with a 90 foot pole, they are all afraid to break something. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Hey guys, gunna ask the hive mind here about another issue I’m presently dealing with . occasionally I’m running into a feeling with my skyline while driving where it feels almost as though somebody has grabbed the steering wheel and jerked it while driving . I initially thought this was an issue with either the Hicas or Atessa related systems I haven’t touched , and it responding to some aged tires that needed replaced. I am now on brand new appropriately sized tires and just experienced this for the first time last night on my way home from work. I don’t imagine it matters , but it happened when a very loud motorcycle was passing on the passenger side , and it almost felt as though I was in a Tesla and it reacted to the significant noise / object to my passenger side and swerved away from it (thank god , since it was unexpected and if it swerved towards it … we’ll it could’ve been a lot longer of a night for both of us) . While leaving work today, I noticed backing out of my parking spot that something felt… off for the lack of a better word . Like the car just didn’t want to reverse smoothly like it normally does . It didn’t stall or resist, just didn’t seem happy doing it . I did not notice anything on the torque gauge , but with it being unable to be replicated on conditions, it’s hard for me to catch if the gauges were to show anything off of standard in these exacerbations . feel free to chime in with any ideas . Other threads mentioned this potentially being Afm related or shuffle or something but none of that sounds right (haltech doesn’t use AFMs, isn’t the turbo , it’s clearly in my opinion something suspension/dif/ a mount or something ?) but it’s so infrequent and not doing it on breaking or able to be replicated at hard acceleration or anything , it seems to just sometimes do it at a level of steady throttle . -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
if youre asking josh, idk , but myself, As in the top of the post im running a haltech 2500 system, no upgrade to master cylinder. That being said, i could just be answering out of turn here, i have no idea about joshes setup lol -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Of corse if anybody sees any other must haves , or sees anything that really should be done better not mentioned in this thread , feel free to share. Y’all already saved me from the fan, if there is anything else like that I’ll do my best to update and make sure it’s accounted for -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I feel pretty decent with my parts list right now though, I’ll have to read about relocating the power steering . And I’ll have to look more at the tensioner stuff , if that’s apparently an issue that should be replaced . Other thing I’ll be considering is the mines cam baffles but I’ll prob just do that later , see how the baffled sump and catch can go first . -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I do feel that my stock clutch has a ton of travel before it grabs , and I don’t find it particularly easy to stall either, so I can see what you mean there. Unsure of how much of that is intent and how much is wear, but I have confidence that a twin will be just fine , just was making sure I wouldn’t be in a place where it couldn’t handle the hp. I think the old nismo I was advised against had been a single plate anyway , which is what brought on the anxiety on this part . I feel good about the twin copper mix nismo tho. I’ll likely end up going that route , especially if , per you guys, it feels the most street-able -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I assume you missed the part where this was clarified , the order canceled , and a stock fan ordered in its place . I had only ordered this due to a few threads I found that were fan comparisons , with that fan having a decent percentage more air flow measured. That being said , I obviously had not had the entire picture, and as such, when corrected on this matter, proceeded to rectify this The meaningful feedback on a part I was ignorant of was, in fact , the whole reason I made the thread. I still have a lot to learn, and am learning more every day. People like GT explaining these things , allowing me to make changes before purchases or arrival of parts , are what may keep this car from having issues and for THAT I am grateful. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
you guys are the best , thanks for the advice these things. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Still fanning through the oil thread . Bouncing around a bit but moving from back end and have gotten back to around 50s , lots of info. Trying to take notes and not get overwhelmed at the moment . Lol -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
is there any harm in restriction of the oil to the head " too much" , tomei is 1.5mm, some others are 1 and 1.2 , I see for things like drifting and the like, 1mm is suggested, and they are all basically the same price, so i was curious is 1mm just overall " more protection" or can it cause any unintended harm with less aggressive applications -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
so straying from the Giken and leaning towards the nismo coppermix twin plate seems reasonable ? https://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch im hoping to locate one outside of japan with slightly more reasonable shipping as nengun and justjap and the like are absolutely horrid with shipping prices to the US, But if the nismo is more drivable ill def consider that over the giken, especially ( if i can find a good location to ship from) with it being a few hundred USD less -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Does anybody else have any input on the nismo clutch being capable at this hp range of 450-500 whp? I hear it feels substantially better than the OS Giken and is cheaper , but some years ago Geoff had advised against it , stating a previous customer of theirs just had to have it removed due to not being able to appropriately clamp down at that rating . On proper claims to be able to take like 600 lbs of torque or something like that, so it SHOULD be fine but further experienced people feel free to weigh in -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
So far opted to leave out the diff for the simple fact of funding, and am leaning into the Nitto oil pump, RIPS sump kit, and High Octane washer bottle replacment/ catch can setup. Still reading about the restrictors/ stuff regarding head drains/ extra breathers? , and the like. No shortage of things to sift through . -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I’ve gathered the aussies and NZ def have their skylines sorted out ,but I’m not totally familiar with just how much there is out there . That being said I’ve basically been following these trains of thought. y’all are really advocating for that diff, so I’ll add it on. I’m going to assume it makes a significant difference from the advocation. I just didnt want to add it for people thinking it’s going to be a track car , when it’s going to very much more be a pleasure driver on the road with a little more hop/torque for the smile factor . But if “no car should be allowed to pull engine and not replace front diff” , that’s a pretty hard stance, it must make a difference I do need to read more about the oil system and the needs there. I’ve been going over everything else , spent probably 20-30 hours in the past 3 days already to make lists / prices I have now -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I just purchased them, and it was showing strangely, it actually was only a bit under 500 usd ! thats a pleasant surprise ! lol -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yeah i have it in my cart now, I am US , so its 764 usd with shipping. Which isnt quite as bad as 810 , but still more expensive than the 400 dollars that i was looking at before realizing there were some extra bits needed to get it working lol. But overall, im fine with paying the price to know they are genuine and have everything i need to make sure it goes smooth. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
So, i could look into a regular nitto or tomei pump, but the price difference doesnt seem that far off, but if it saves me in labor when I'm having it assembled , thats fine with me. The one thing i question is that I have heard about a million times that if you upgrade the oil pump, you have to upgrade the sump or you're gunna end up running into issues. Is this not the case with the nitto/tomei style pumps? While I would like to avoid another several hundred in parts short term, plus the labor , I surely dont want to blow it up from pumping air instead of oil due to lacking the appropriate amount of oil/ baffles / etc if the pump requires it As for the front diff, Im happy enough there for the time being, I will likely pass this up on at least my initial set of installations. Im really trying to get the MUST HAVES done while the engine is out. Honestly its unlikely i'll ever see a track, and Im not drag racing anybody. Just spirited street driving, where safety and a lack of prying eyes allows. -
R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading
oSkylines replied to oSkylines's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
aye theres the rub. From 420 up to 810 usd with the ballast resistor delete, which i assume is what it means when it says that they are high impedance and need the removal of the resistor pack in the first link. So it looks like nzefi is the way to go , if the option for the ballast resistor delete is bundled in. Would've likely missed that without you pointing that out. Thank you very much.