SkylineR33Lad

Hi guys thought id just leave this here as shes all running nicely now. The issue was that i had the wrong timming mark lined up witch i am amazed at how i didnt bend any valves. The car gods were watching over me. So all running good now. Now time to go blow some tyres. Cheers for the help guys

These are the two timming marks im talking about!!!

Okay guys so i found my problem and need yout help. When i was timming up my timming belt i didnt relise that the hks exhaust cam gear i using has to timming dots and im certain that i time it ul to the wrong timming dot. Has anyone every fitted a hks cam gear and what mark do i use to time it up. P.S im praying to the car gods that i havnt bent any valves on my freshly reconed head!!!

Ok guys. Update Ive done what your guys have recommened and still no luck so i thought id start f**king around with the harness and i was testing continuity between ecu and cas. I found my injecter line was broken somewhere. So i ran a wire from my ecu to the cas and now i have injection pulse. But now we have another problem. It fires a little bit when i fully retard the timing via the cas. So i thought id remove the bolts from the cas and retarded another 30-45 degrees and after 20 seconds of cranking it finally starting but didnt sound good at all. I touch the throttle and it died straight away. Im certian that my timing has to be out because why else would i have to retard my timming that much to get it to run. And not even run good. Im going to pull my timming belt back off and check the timming again. Will keep you guys posted.

Ok so it looks like im not getting injection pulse. The noid light lights up once and then doesnt come back on. I can hear and see the coil packs sparking away but just no injection. Ive got power supply and ive tries 3 different cases. Also swapped ecus still nothing. Looks like i might have a wiring issue im assuming

Update. So when i use my noid lights to check pulse on the injecters it lights up when the fuel pump is primeing and soon as i cant here the fuel pump theres no more flashing from the noid light. Ive check theres a solid 12.4V at the injecters

So as from my research the half moon is just a locater so it makes it easy to line up the timing. When its broken you have to manually line up the teeth on the cas by having it TDC and theres a mark on my cas that when lined up it lines up to where the broken tooth use to be. Its hard to explain. But ive got that sorted im pretty sure. Ill upload some photos. Ive just pulled my coils and plugs back out and ive got a really strong spark on all 6. Im trying to look down the cylinders and turn the cas to see if i can see fuel going into the cylinders but i cant see fuel but i can head the injecters. Does anyone know if i should be able to see fuel getting sprayed into the cylinders.

I thought id just leave this herr

Ok so here we go. I brought a r33 series 2 gtst with low compression. It was running before i pulled the head off. I found that the head was f**ked and the exhaust vavles were leaking badly. the cam caps were around the wrong way witch destroyed the journals. So i have a second hand head that has been fully overhauled. Cost me a arm and a leg. Ive put everything back together and tried to start it. It cranks but no fire. I have found that the half moon pin on the exhaust cam is snapped off and ive set the engine to TDC and alined the cas to where the moon use to be and still no start. I get a fire every now and then but wont start. I can hear the injecters ticking and ive got spark. Im 99% sure the timming is right. Both cam and crank timmig marks all seem to line up. Ive allso checked ive got the fuel line going into the rail and fuel return out the regulator. Ive tried 3 different cas's. It has a adjustable HKS exhaust cam gear. It hasnt been adjusted and was all running okay before i pulled it apart. Really appreciate any help guys thanks

They are two different turbo tees. One was turbo smart and other is neon. As shown in photo. Why solenoid are you talking about. If it's the one where the factory boost lines went to. That is not in use anymore cause I've got the turbo tee in line. Hoses are all is good condition.

When I'm winding the turbo tee towards the more boost +. It is coming out of the body of the turbo tee. I wound it all most all the way towards the + but stopped cause it stopped clicking and I thought the knob was going to come off.

Yer sweet will do that bro. Where would be the best place for me to fit this nipple. Just before the throttle body or near the intercooler so where

Yer it has massive aftermarket front mount intercooler. There is no where for me to fit my vacuum line to as it doesn't have a nipple anywhere.

I'll head downstairs and take some photos now bro

Update So I wound the turbo towards more boost. Still over boosting around 16psi. I've shorten my vacuum line from intake manifold to my turbo tee to my turbo actuators and still no difference. Bit lost

I haven't tried adjusting the screw the other way acutely. I've only had it on the lowest setting. I'll wind it towards the more boost and see if it lowers it.

Hey guys need a bit off help. At the moment I'm running stock boost of 6 psi. I originally had a boost tee hooked up but it was boosting up around the 15 psi mark. So I removed it and threw it away and ordered a new boost tee. It arrived today and I hooked it up and I'm having the same issue. On the lowest setting it is boosting around the 15 psi mark. So I brought a new vacuum line and hooked that up. Still over boosting. I've checked everywhere for any vacuum leaks and can't find anything. Am I missing something. Also yes the boost tee is hooked up the right way. The arrow is pointing to the actuator.

Thanks for the reply guys. I brought a series 2 rear subframe with diff and half shafts and bolted straight in no problem.

Hey guys I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this one. I've just recently put my car into the kerb hard enough to bend my rear subframe. I've located a rear subframe for 350 from a series 2 but I'm not 100percent sure it will fit straight into my series 1. Is there any difference between series 1 & 2 rear subframe and diff. guys? Much appreciated

It's in limp mode. Can't rev over 2000 rpm. Idles perfect and you can drive it slowly but just cuts all power when you get to 2000 rpm.

Okay guys I really was hoping not to have to post in here again but I need your help again. I am very embarrassed to admit but yes Ben you were right I had the fuel lines around the wrong way! Was spewing when it fire over straight away. But now onto the next problem. I have got it idling fine and sounds really nice but it is in limp mode after I drove it 500 metres up the road. I have checked all vaccum lines and Intercooler lines and they are all on. I did find a small vaccum line behind my glove box that wasn't hooked up to anything so I blocked it with a screw. I've triple checked every single plug and also tried the afm with the second one I have. I've also check for fault codes and I'm get 55 witch means everything is fine Again sorry for the late response guys.

Okay guys so I pulled the fuel rail off again. And had my Mazda 3 running and stole a vacuum line of that to the fuel reg on the skyline. It turnt the cas and the injectors a clicking and there fuel getting to the rail but I don't think it's getting pass the regulator! Could this be the fault or at I missing something. There's only one vacuum line coming off the fuel reg! I've also got the return line off the fuel rail and there's no fuel coming out the return with the key on. But the pump is loud and I know there's 6 bar of pressure there.

Sweet bro. I'll pull them out again tomorrow and have a look and make sure they are all spraying right.