pogman

Ok interesting i guess ill wait till using a manual gauge before making assumptions.

So didn't get around to installing a manual oil pressure gauge and then decided to take the car for a cruisey drive to a cars and coffee and brought the laptop along with to get another log using more gears to see if its an oil pressure issue under acceleration or after. this log has 3 gears of WOT where as previous had 2 and the oil pressure dropped once on the brakes, and the same again happens here which is interesting as it shows it can hold oil pressure while under acceleration but once slowing or just the lower RPM after a pull pressure drops. I will be chucking a manual oil pressure gauge on to confirm but so far this makes me feel it is not an electrical issue. Something else i realised is the pressure sensor also is giving temperature information and the temp stays steady the whole time which makes me feel like the sensor itself is showing a true pressure reading.

Poncam the world

yes sorry i should of spoke better, all sensors are grounded into their specific homes in the ecu, the ecu is then grounded to the chassis itself along with the EFI relay.

Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.

All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin. 1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx

Unfortunately I'm a Gen Z (Don't hold it against me pls) but I'm also retarded so surely they cancel out? But yes definitely agree where else can you find people helping and bullying each other for the past 20+ years with a sprinkle of "hottest girlfreinds or wives of sau" in there too for some downtime after all the learning.

That sounds way too sensible, I may need to dumb it down before I try it.

I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs.

i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them

Think ill be going hunting for bad earths and might just replace the alternator for shits n gigs as its an LS alternator but only about 5 years old with very minimal use in that 5 years.

more sensors sounds very smart least you never doubt a single sensor. it has dropped about 10 psi at a 5k rpm low load shift but regains it in a normal way, not showing like a quick blip on the chart but more presenting as like a build up of pressure again. unlike the 8k rpm high load shift which shows a quick up and down spike on the oiul pressure graph.

its certainly looking like a power issue now which im all for so i can test turn the limit off for the upcoming track day i was hoping to make ahahahah

i only have ecu voltage available but that certainly does drop as that still relies on the 27 year old wiring, although has an ls altenator that pump out 140 amps and wiring upgraded to suit that. i will test the sensors without it running soon thats a good one. it an emtron kv8, i recently redid the engine side harness so i have my own wiring guide for it but i had the same issues when i used the plug and play kit that was adapted to suit my old vipec adapted harness

im surpirsed a halaltech doesnt show that. this scatter is from a 45 second long log

I also understand psi but apparently most things make more sense in kpa oil pressure being one of a few exceptions so im trying to learn ahahahah, I have no idea of the relief spring pressure tbh I thought 110 which is the absolute peak it hits was about right, I was thinking of removing the relief and making sure it is in good condition, I would just replace it but couldn't find a replacement for an n1 pump too easily but I could just be blind.

It certainly does make sense that there is just no oil to pick up, but I can go 3 or 4 gears of WOT and have no oil pressure issues too (I have no logs of this unfortunately) and I have a fair amount of oiling mods to try and help only thing I'm missing is a rear head drain which is potentially the most helpful.

In those logs I'm on the street but I did have to brake pretty hard, I had tried it where I also didn't get on the brakes too much after and still experienced the same issue. The sump has "some" baffles but I'd say it's fair to say not enough. I would agree with you and just turn down the oil pressure protection at least for now, but was interested to hear some opinions as I couldn't find any info on the problem.

It's plugged into a grex sandwich plate so it's still bolted onto the motor. Interesting im glad I'm not the only one to experience this then ahahah

oil pressure sensor sits on the filter block, i believe after the filter but i may be wrong about that.

So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that. Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.

yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.

small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much. I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.

I wonder if these would be discounted when they have their big sales? because if so would be a great time to actually buy them could even end up cheaper than buying from quickjack in the end.

Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness. A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done. Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well. The old harness for shits and giggles.