260DET

Rather than start a new CAMS 2A Sports Car thread................ Trying to work out what electrical devices are required for 2A, it's all very vague. From what I understand after reading all the stuff dipping headlights are required, tail and brake lights, wiper, that seems to about it but 'warning devices' are mentioned. A horn?

My head spins every time reading this, there is comparatively a lot to be said for a CAMS 2A Sports car, start with a Ebay 8 circuit loom and proceed

My knee jerk intrawebs review of the Exocet is it's rubbish but perhaps it reminds me of dickheads in Clubmans who apparently think it's cool to try to take your apex, next time I'm turning in track rat. Serious? Would need mudguards wouldn't it? That could be a problem, nothing to hang them off.

The group is nearly full, seriously, but lets have more Datsuns AKA Nissans to keep the BMWs and similar eurotrash out. So EOI David, he did a brilliant job in 2016, nothing in it for him, he just loves organising motor stuff.

Challenge Bathurst 2017 No firm date yet but it's on again late this year, anyone who wishes to join the Z Car Club Q Inc group and thereby secure garage accomodation can email a EOI to David [email protected] Basically this group is about old Datsuns with lot's of 240Z's and similar, importantly most of the drivers will have track experience, in 2016 it was pretty good with not much wankery going on. Up to you but you could do worse than hook up with our group.

Yeh, I'd be telling them it's going to be returned for a refund and take it from there. They know exactly what they have done and are counting on you rolling over, surely there are other options available to you.

K-sport have probably just given you the kit that they had in stock, bugger that particularly with the run out problem.

The linked site has some useful info too http://www.buildyourownracecar.com/race-car-types/

Pommy ignorance but look at the tenacity, winner. Get rid of the grease, filling a caliper with it is utter bullshit. Bolt threads can get damaged for no apparent reason, if a bolt is a bit tight then run a tap through the thread to clean it up. Cheap set of China M taps is fine for this. Rum&Coke will fix any other worries.

Up to 15mm? That's a warranty issue surely although it may be just a bit late for that. The local excellent aligner reckons up to 3mm is common, that's on any car.

Is there an actual misalignment problem or does it just look like it? If there is an actual problem then how much by? A good laser aligner will show this which tells you how much change is needed. From then on it's just a matter of making the appropriate changes, I had some vague idea that eccentric subframe mounting bushes were available.

Seems to be a pretty good buy.

Will be fabricating something like those for the project Z, will be welded in place though.

One feature I find a bit lol is strut bars that connect to the strut tops via rod ends. yet they are so common. I'm all for bracing, depends on the model of car of course but generally laterally and vertically where the front chassis rails butt against the firewall is worth doing. Did a triangular engine bay brace back to the firewall horizontal rib on the Zed and that certainly changed the handling, took a while to get used to but all good.

Lubrication. Other than abuse, pretty well every LS engine failure/premature wear situation can be traced back to inadequate lubrication.

The OP is interested in NA options, he already has a turbo and the LS/RX7 conversion is popular because their rotor motor blows up regularly whereas a properly lubricated LS will go forever. The LS has other advantages too, low C of G, compact, parts availability, aftermarket support and relatively light in weight.

An alternative which I don't think has been mentioned yet is something like a RX7 with a LSx engine, there have been a few conversions like that done so picking up a completed one is a possibility. But of course a decent one is going to cost a lot more than some of the other suggestions here. Thing is though you get a powerful, nice handling car that should be low maintenance, to each their own but running something like a MX5 would get boring real quick, there is no substitute for power and all the interesting challenges it brings to the track.

Should have slashed him with the splitter when he went past.

The way it was explained to me by the Brisbane Hankook dealer is that firstly the volume of motorsport tyre sales is so low compared with regular tyre sales that none of the big boys are interested. It's also very specialised at to sizes, compounds etc, date of manufacture is also relevant, eg it's very easy to get stuck with old tyres that no one wants. Might add that this bloke spent a lot of time fitting and balancing the new Hankooks, it was not a 'wham bam there you go mate' job.

OK understand it now, thanks all, Roy's point about large diameter rotors makes sense too. So for a limited use race car the only disadvantage seems to be extra $ which seems somehow to be a familiar theme.

Certainly have read all the responses, they are all helpful but I'm trying to get my head around a better pad clearance feature that does not involve knock back. Not saying that it does, I just don't understand how that is possible.

Wondering if pad knock back might be a problem, the extra rotor clearance they make would have that effect but if it's noticeable at the brake pedal is another question. Might ask if full floating can be converted back to solid mounted, the difference looks to be some fancy attachment hardware so that may be possible if knock back is a problem.

Great 'how things should be done' thread.

Full Floating Brake Rotors For custom made brakes there is an option to get full floating rotors rather than the usual solidly bolted together two piece jobs, dedicated race car. Has anyone experience with this type, good, bad? Worth getting?

It was supposed to be fun Z blokes, that was not in the script.