GeeTR

Any more progress with this setup?

Not stupid, but talked about on SAU before. You should be highly conscious of your driving style and what you demand out of a car, before you yourself, could answer which one is better for you.

clicky click

Duno if the fat ass of a 33 is a pro! lol! jk

Experience that prolly made em first check the cam cover

How fast is the leak? Could you clean the area, idle it on a car hoist and watch underneath carefully? Theres the oil temp sender on the front side of the oil filter bracket as well (26 at least) Oil filter hasn't pinched its o-ring as it?

your less then an hour away from knowing how to test spark and fuel.

All local car mags go wild with said local manufacture. TS must have a form of mafia that roughs up unwary editors. Just sayin... *cough*

That is quiet cheap... From manufactures website, their product "meets Federal EPA and California ARB requirements," Wonder how that compares to AU laws.

You should take it to a mechanic, as dropping cylinders / faulty coils is an exceptionally rare occurrence with Skylines. All the best

Yah, does the noise occur when the box is in neutral, clutch out... or clutch in?

I assumed ppl where talking about the DEI Cryo setup. The picture in this thread is from the website sooo

Ask the tuner to move the dyno intake temp sensor and be happy with N1 response and poowah Kranker, you suggesting a motor rebuild for a 300rwkw BCNR33 RB26, that is soft

Aftermarket FPR?

Comparing the two graphs, your tuners knocked half a point worth of fuel in (~12.75 -> ~12.2) where you make peak power ~6000rpm. The fueling increase could easily account for 20rwkw loss me thinks.

6yr Wonder Whoring MF'er, truly awesome...

I lol'd at you using a "china kit" I asked you about the construction quality of the core. I then suggested, that the fitting "standards" might have been mixed up, if you've swapped some of the couplers with your own; AN and JIC for example... its quiet a common mistake

The boost kit can generally be setup well'ish, it just takes some playing around. The fact it uses the same solenoid as the AVCR is not as important as you might think. From eye, it looks very similar to the unit used on the E-Boost (which, how ever overpriced i think it is, IS a good unit when setup correctly) The solenoid itself is a "tool" if you will. Its effectiveness is up to the person wielding it (that 'person' being the microprocessor in this case) If you do hock ~$600 on an EBC btw, I'm heavily biased here... but you cant beat the Blitz DBC... along with the Jaycar controller (requires tinker time)

My understanding, is that the EBC takes the signal directly.

Lol @ another leaking china kit GT - apart from the poorly made / designed block adapter, how do you find the cooler core itself? Does it look reasonable? Outa interest, what type (standard) of fitting is leaking? Theres not a simple 370 AN / 450 SAE / JIC mix up??

- Play with the EBC to fix the creeping boost. - AFR's too lean in the boost transition, by adding fuel, you might be able to wind a little more ignition in down low, help with that lag issue

An old gurlfriends charade turbo would make 0.3Bar when at standstill and rev'd hard (not to the limiter though) OP - your mates might be using the handbrake to simulate load

Oil pressure sender sits just above the oil filter. Film cannister sized thing. Temperature I thought, was right near it.

To move the ram over each side,so you can fit the shims, id think you will need to get it into diagnostic mode. The Tomei box will stop the power steering pressure (and dash globe) weirdness. Id just chuck a $100 lock bar on there now.

hahah, that good of an experience hey? OP - I think the consensus is, that if you can afford something other then the boost kit, go that way. I believe the biggest con, is the lack of ability to control gain.