GeeTR

As per your last thread, the picture i listed shows the exact device that connects to the point on the motor, that your interested in... assuming your car still has it Again, clicky GL

GTR's? 440cc top feed, low impedance 10.5mm... Random man, how bout you list what your after.

What brand is yours, if you dont mind? A mates old auto, in a 10sec rota, was a loud RAT with a 3500 unit. EDIT: Oh, 2500rpm.. i though OP was talking a REAL stally lol.

^^ I use that line as well lol

15mins and no response, how rude! yes.. it weill affect your daily driving. If the lockup point it raised, the revs will flare higher before you move. Can make it hard if you have a loud exhaust and are sitting next to to cops at the lights. It will however, make a large turbo setup more streetable.

Not really, but id it take only 10 mins to chuck some hose on it and zip tie it up somewhere safe, where birds wont fall down it.

Its millimeter's of mercury (mmHg) x100 +7 on the gauge should be around 13.535psi

They cannot be compared to the Bee-R. A guy i know has one in a 450hp SVI Rx7. I've heard its phenomenal. Set your slip ratio with the control, say 10% and you can just plant it out of slow corners with it maintaining that slip % while rally style popping out the exhaust.

The very first sentence of the freely available EVC IV setup guide I have here, says... 1) To Begin: On the back of the EVC unit is a switch marked "SW< >PO". If you have a single port swing valve internal type wastegate, select "SW" If you have a dual port, poppet or external type wastegate, select "PO" Seems your mate is trying to sabotage your setup

Rust penetrator every night for a week then use ring spanners. EDIT: Yah, the front yoke fits to the g.box with spines (well a BNR33 does) Try undoing the allen key bolts at the diff end, and sliding the front out.

Some PS systems can see 800-1000psi, most of the braids are around 1500psi burst pressure. I don't think AN braid hose fittings will take that though. I believed that you need fittings crimped on professionally, like brake lines. If your simply moving the PS reservoir though and are talking the vacuum pump feed, and (slightly) pressurized return lines, AN fittings would be well fine.

Is it below the oil filter, on the block or...? If not, and is the nipple on top of the finned, rock melon sized object, its the breather for the front diff. It should have a hose on it, that connects to a "loop" under the plenuem, and sits 'free air'

Then pull everything off and properly diagnose the sound if your stressed

lol cat fight!

Few mates have used RHD. Better prices then most, though you could wait for it. Customer service's been spot on.

Assuming your motors not a $2 hooker, it could be a thinner oil was used. If a guy from SAU did it though, there'd be no excuse for the wrong grade oil. Sure its not just the injectors?; has it been thee always, but you've only just noticed it now? RB injectors are noisy. If the tapping raises in Hz when you race the engine, and becomes quiet when on RPM decel, its the injectors. That said, RB oil senders, gauges are notoriously shite for playing up. IMO id put a known good, mech gauge on it asap.

Haggered stock viscous diff maybe, or maybe you have a lot of rounda bouts in your area? Could be just your driving style. Statistically, the rear passengers side seat is the most dangerous as the driver in a emergency situation, will flick the rear of the car AWAY from the driver (to the left, when turning right) Linked to this, is most people feel more comfortable flicking the rear to the left (when turning right) ... course it could be just a misalignment Run of the mill duco "cut 'n' polish" is what your mech prolly suggested.

^^ Post #5 100% - ripping the edge off the balancer and realizing the implications, will give you a 7 day frown.

deja vu

Car wont start without knowing engine position. Lack of CAS will throw a code 11. There was a guy who had a damaged CAS which spat a code 21. Clean up the devices (IAC etc) that control idle first me think. There is no CAS light, post a picture.

?? Step away from the car slowly, put the spanner down ...you "T" from this line friend, so both gauges work... Autobarn for vac line, pneumatic shop for hard nylon.

Not sure what you have been reading, but this comes up almost every week now. I found this, within 15sec of searching... See the vacuum feed for your FPR?... on the BACKSIDE of the collection tube thing, you'll find the feed for the STOCK firewall mounted MAP sender... shhtick it in there. Use normal vac hose, or some of that thin hard nylon tubing.

Sounds like a disaster; BOV feeds, wastegate feeds and boost gauges tee'd into FPR feeds. Start at the basics. - If the factory solenoid has been removed, what controls boost? - Your aftermarket BOV will need a vac source so it seals. Either hook it up properly or remove it. - Remove ur boost gauge from the FPR feed, and hook it up somewhere else (stock MAP sender?) - Your inlet plenum seeing less vacuum when you race the motor is normal lol - How long have you had the car, do the issues coincide with you doing anything to the car? Get a workshop manual and good luck

I just read over the install guide for a EVC 4. What exactly are you having issues with?