GeeTR

Probabally no weirder then the mental picture I get, of a slow stuttering Texan drawl, handgun in one hand, bible and 1st amendment flailing in the other... from reading post by Yanks lol

I've always wondered the results, of a stock/Nismo adjustable FPR, bench tested (literally) against an aftermarket, larger diaphragm'ed unit like a SX, Magnaflow, Malpassi, Sard etc. I wonder which one would control rail pressure VS inlet pressure the quickest... and if this response time even plays on real world chamber AFR's.

a lot

10 inputs, nice. How are you guys positioning yourselves alongside racelogic? What are the "rate" channels thankx

Aftermarket water lines, I see, I see

Neoprene, I thought, wasn't petroleum / hydrocarbon resistant? They are Viton or nitrile butadiene.

TLDR... GTR's is phun - the end-

Nissan will sell you OEM ones for under a $100. Theres a recent thread about with someone finding some correctly sized, cheaper after market ones as well.

^^ for boost feeds for actuators, but for your boost gauge, you'll want it post TB so it will read vacuum as well

Tis why Id say banjo's are a good idea with hard pipe; the fitting itself doesn't travel during tightening... if that makes sense.

Gav, sorry whats #3 and #4 referring to? The positioning of the senders between cyl 3 & 4? Thats pretty interesting, swapping them around, messes up the idle.

Hey Shaun, have you changed your turbo's water exit, and run it around the front of the motor, instead of the rear coolant line that goes around the back of the head?

Hot diggity, the disco flake looks mint

I crimp and solder every connection. Be aware the plastic shroud on most crimp ends will degrade in fuel, so just remove. 12v wont readily bridge a gap, just double check your solder connections. What are the issues you experiencing, that the new pump didn't fix?

*cough* ignition system bolstering CDI and 1.2mm gaps ftw *cough* Rev210, your theory is what i believe as well.

SMB have half a dozen 3.5" -> 4" cannons, mids and offsets.

^^ the MAP senders on the collection tube, so single vs twin is irreverent. Still though, I wonder if two are needed. Most Autronic / Motec / Haltech setups i see, use only one MAP sender (none, have the difficulty of multi throttles though admittedly) Seeing as some people don't get good results with the sender tap'd and bolted to the Apexi recommended collection tube, but need to make an aftermarket zone (that reflects the average vac/boost of each inlet runner)... surely one sender, bridged at the ECU (like ppl do with AFM's) could work just as well... Meh, just thinking aloud.

The type R comes in a soft and a 'hard' spring, the harder one being for cars running more then a bar. They are a good, simple piece of kit. As for cost, you'd be better going second hand replacements imo. Type R is $200, but the kit that makes it a bolt up affair add's on top.

Pull the bar off, and make up your own decision on its restriction

Specific manufacture, Earls, Speedflow, Summit, Aeroquip aside, im not sure a compression fitting is any better then a banjo. All the big names make -AN banjo''s as well.

Bitchin Pink tricycle!! So how far along have you gotten with the coolant feeds for the turbo's? You say yours are custom, or non standard in some way - pics? Where on the metal line, is it leaking from? Snot just a dodgey crush washer is it, or something that can be re-brazed.

Autobarn sell smurf blood? Dang, I had to get it imported from auto1 last time a mate needed some. That IS interesting, cheers

Sweet, time to stock up on car deodorizers, Nasaresearchadium plugs, and NOS branded fuel additive. There is a god.

Ppl use em still... but yanking on a wire's been replaced with buttons, stepper motors and sharks with lazar beams

correction, against what the Nissan part is called, RB's don't have rockers lol They do use a gasket though, try part numbers 13270-58S11 & 13270-58S01 Congrats keeping the car!