GeeTR

Be sure to search A GT3582 is the proper Aussi term (diameter of the compressor exducer) for a GT3540 (US measure the comp wheel inducer) Garret dont market a SPL AFAIK, what you could be looking at is a GT3582 with a T04R (66mm ind) front wheel placed into the machined front cover. From memory they are worth another 40hp worth of top end flow. Searching will tell you some ppl don't advise it, at the exhaust housing borderline with the stock comp wheel as is. I have one with another click worth of work that I believe should offset that issue. Course, i could be way off

Spot on, too easy to find and get to.

LoL silliness; assuming you asked a serious question, its under the center console behind the hand brake. All the screws that hold the console in are fairly straight forward and easy to see. Careful with the sensor unit (includes two latitudinal, one longitudinal) removal, Nissan quote about $3k.

Hrrm, well considering theres something wrong with the horn slider contact, AND you hear a noise, the odds would be pretty dang high of the noise coming from the PS system (in this case) Use search, learn how to remove a air bag wheel safely, and I would bet real hard earned internet dollars that theres something thats just broken / worn thats dragging and making the noise (as well as causing the "bearing like noise") A PS noise could be located by having a mate under the hood, while you crank the steering wheel while at standstill anywho. Good luck

tough crowd

Does the ticking disappear when the revs rise, or fall? if when fall = injectors if both = ~valve train me thinks. Rem to search, v.common w/ RB's.

Looks like a nice piece of work, good work on getting it all done.

Agreed. A mates SR AAC started buzzin after he removed/replaced the plenum a few times. A new unit did the same. Issue was dirty / dodgy plug.

QWK32 - Hrrm, I think I disagree. The turbos a means to an end, it just moves air up against the intake valves, a location I care more about regulated pressure then out the comp outlet of the turbo. Assuming your not constrained by turbo outlet pressure (stock ceramic) I think maybe the pressure there is borderline insignificant. OP - For a manual BC, I'd take it from close to the TB. For a EBC, I would take the closed loop boost sender feed from same location, though take the wastegate feed from close the compressor outlet. Its kinda moot in most setups Id say, and depends on the specifics. If you are boost limited by a stock turbo (and going along with boost/heat kills em) then the feed taken from the comp outlet would be the way to go, to insure you don't go over 13psi (or woteva it is) If your motors tuned close to the limit with a aftermarket turbo and built motor and you know you start to det on a hot day at 24psi... well then the a TB/plenum source is the go. Hope that made sense... 2 of them even:)

Each of the big three motorsport connection manufactures make Y blocks I think. If you want fancy ones like that, MagnaFuel do them in poiple

Dodgy igniter? (cam cover mounted thing) Does engine bay heat soak change its effect?

Maybe instead of destroying the dwindling world supplies of RB's you should try sending it off to be rebuilt properly.

Very common. Clean the effected area to locate the exact spot of the leak. Its most likely from - the o-ring up top - upper insulator - lower insulator - the injector body itself (the plastic part where theres an indent from the injection molding Nissan OEM seal/insulator are about $80'ish I think, though theres a link on SAU from a guy who sells them for dollars. Iv never done it, though guess you could pressurize the FPR to simulate having some boost / load under it; proper rail pressure would assist in locating leak.

^^ 1000% Though most the time you cant get to it from underneath, so use a feeler gauge, or small screw driver to put some load on the spliced bit, just enough force to get the thread to grip again. Worst case do Bluey33's method, but that will most likely mark the plastic. And yah, you can get replacements from anywhere... getting the exact shade of grey can take some searching though.

What a strange thread... *...keeps on walking...

The manual for your piece of equipment is always a good place to start.

I think PaulsR33 FAQ has pictures of each EDIT: Damn you refresh, damn you

Hey, "Raced"as in "free revved while at standstill in neutral" When the revs are dropping, from a "free rev" the ECU cuts the injector signal for a moment, you should be able to hear the difference. I don't think Iv pad more then $100 to have 6 injectors cleaned and flow tested; that price must include removal / reinstall...? ouch

Bumpy Bumpy, the issue still exists... All I / we need, is a mod to say "we are aware of issue, sit tight..."

I've never been able to delete photo's as well

That's a fair few codes. At a guess, bar the fuel pump one they look TPS related (idle switch, load etc)

Oh cool, you (or someone) can get there hands onto it now - can you get both hands on it? Are they slipping off, or can you just not get enough torque on it? Rem to clean with brake cleaner to get some friction. Sounds like its getting seriousally not fun

I'm 6'3", although getting to the filter is fecking hard, its surly not impossible, specially for someone a tad smaller. Have you got a neighbors 10y you can bribe with candy... seriously lol

I wrote a DIY up a few years back, it could expedite your belt venture. Careful of your wording there, cleaning bits and checking timing isn't what i would call, having your car tuned Service, is a better term.

"Oil" dripping from the AC compressor is normal? I wouldn't have thought so. Are you sure its from the compressor directly, or dripped there from a exuberant oil change, and the comp is the lowest point? Before stressing out, clean the whole area and check regularly to track where its coming from yourself.