GeeTR

Same here. I thought it was just an overpriced 10mm red LED for plugging into the Apexi controller output (or gauge specific output) Picture?

Is that your work Str8? EDIT: Holy shit, LOL @ Dumper King high mount RB design ... DumperKing sounds like a Uni drinking game to me, buh ne-ways...

Japanese bolt on kits fit nicely, usually allowing the average E-mechanic to fit em up in hours. Questionable Chinese turbos need "massaging" and some fabrication. Did they initially quote you a much lower price?

Its not "really" best practice to have anything else "T'd" into the boost feed for your FPR (where red arrow is pointing) but everyone else seems to. Your going to need a fitting that will take the screw in fuel pressure sender, with barbs on each end. It'll need to be placed between f.pump and FPR. If that gauge is mechanical, well then, you'll have to run fuel pressure into your cabin... :S

Delete everything from firewall forward, and do a tube frame front chassis

Clean looking Line man, love white. GL with sale.

Serious - my car creates bugger all oil flow when cranking with the igniter disconnected...

oh yah forgot, last wed / thur night at around 9:-10PM had a silver BNR32 with stock wheels (i think) over take me near Oaks Estate power station. Was just after going over the newer (of the two) bridge. I was whipping through there in a white Corolla, and when it came up, i thought it was a cop so slowed down. Made a chill go up my spine, seeing it in the rear view then over taking.

Hahahah man i need to grow up. Seeing you, quote me, who quoted Borat maketh me chuckle... still. Yah nah, i saw Goldie had 13 posts to his name... 2.7sec's later - SAU coughed up the R33 'for sale' thread. Check it, 6boost m.fold, t04z, 264's...

LoL, scuze man, I didn't mean to come off rude. I agree It is a rather interesting thread to bring up, just very hard to answer / add to accurately. When i referred to OP, i meant to imply that 2.5" OD pipe is prolly cool on a maxed out TD05, but maybe not on a ie: T04Z@2bar, hence at a minimum, the power output of the car is a big input factor. Like most things, I woulda thought its about 'using the smallest pipe you can get away with' VS 'accepted flow restriction for vehicle purpose" The issue is that rarely could i ever imagine someone taking the time to dyno and record pressure in various places in the pipe work, then replace ONLY the pipework and test for a delta. Most of the ppl i know, only change pipe size to match another mod being done at the same time, making "apples vs apples" hard. Reminds me of the thread a few months back "How much do large IC's effect lag / response" ... was lots of "heresay"

Check a hydraulic / pneumatic fittings shop, in an industrial estate near you...

Impressive handle

Alloy always. Increased pipe diam post IC, has cooler / denser / thicker air flowing through it in theory. As per OP, the threads about pipe size for a td06 on a RB20, not a 450rwkw 26.

Bout what Ben? - wait ur not saying what i think your saying are you?? lol jk

Bah, the silly questions are those for which answers aren't sought for...

You packing a bender, PFC or stand alone? EDIT: Faaark! I just found the car you purchased, "veeedy nice" $1000 is steep for the first two, though it clearly depends where you take it to get tuned. I'm not sure iv heard of anyone in cbr that would warrant giving 1k to. Unigroup is well spoken about in Sydney. How long? - PFC's don't have the same "self tweak" function as the OEM ECU does. They'll trim fuel by a decaying % to take into account wear like fuel pumps, lazy injectors etc. That said a tune should last years i would have thought, assuming you don't move to the coast or something A setup like yours, I would have thought, would be at dyno days, events and generally have a wideband up his ass often enough to know if at least if WOT figures are remaining solid.

Cough up with your bad experience! Apart from them being noisy buggers hah I'm not sure i would be comfortable with a OEM belt, huge valve seat pressures, steep ramps and 9k rpm though.

That is tricky for the EPA Theres still half a dozen ways to make a MAP sensed car stall when you pull the AFM lol.

Hot R compounds + 7k RPM dump should see a 11 with eaaase i would have thought... assuming your clutch or box doesn't let parts out.

son of rajab Mary duude! I'm a massive fan of stencil's and Dolk's work, but format aide, this one of the most impressive works Ive ever seen, hugely creative, very effective little passage. Feels like 70's LSD stop / go animation styles lol. Nice find

^^ Hrmm all the cars iv worked on have engine oil go into the outer, then out from the center. Time to smack your mechanic EDIT: Found a nice little DIY on SAU HERE for ya. Any questioning is rendered moot, as you can just have someone keep on eye on both lines, when you crank the car first time; then attach as appropriate.

"Isolator" - cool Most ppl call em "Insulators" here in the southern hemisphere

Soap + water + spray bottle = leak source. Id assume, depending on the position of the tire when parked, and the varying amounts of tire load from varying different ways of driving, is giving you the .... varied leak patterns. It was $20 from most places to fix a leak, but i heard recently repairs have been banned; find yourself a nice dodgey tire guy

Ah right, sorry didn't bother as Dave answered you I think you'll find ppl always run the filter (and a oilstat if being used) before the cooler. I know what your saying about temp sender location, but the oil eventually ends up in the sump, which is effectively a wet sumps "reservoir" A sender in the sump would give the hottest temp the oil should ever reach; hence why some ppl prefer that location. Much of a muchness i think.

Watching!