GeeTR

Jesus christ man, thats crazy Mad Max shit. Good to hear he's ok

Will be an interesting daily street car with 600hp, no anti lock, no air con, and two 044's mounted in the engine bay Its your car man, your mechanic should be making your dreams and wishs come true, not to have you fund his garage's demo car

On a second look at the schematic, it looks like its a setup from a jet turbine, hence the "engine water pump" at the bottom left, and the duel staggered ring shaped nozzle array. Those pressure regulators and the surge chamber sounds pretty trick. As for triggering, i would think the regulators would take care of that. Awaiting part 2 !

Kick panel dood, the vertical inside "wall" of the foot well. Grab a manual for your car.

Lack of editing smokes c0ck. Then keep it to the For Sale section i reckon. New comers are chastised to use the search button, to respect SAU as a "encyclopedia" sorts. As such, to keep it neat, and on track, i believe one should be able edit their posts. "Procedure like" threads like DIY's are a good example of where it wont work when the OP starts adding new updated posts imo. Ohhhh nooow i see whats going on here, so sneaaky Last time tried to make a donation, mods never got back to me. Maybe second time lucky lol...

Whoops, seeing your title again, your looking for 3 lines on the OEM turbo The stocker should have 4 lines, Oil feed & drain, water supply & drain.

This one of the best tutes I've ever seen on SAU. Fantastic pictures, procedure instructions and thought process! Good Work!

Indeed, i wish i could read that wack schematic they posted? What are those two different sized rings about? A multi nozzle array?... Without trying to be a critic, i await to see what closed loop system they implement for when the espresso machine water pump, even mounted in a metal box, dies from having to pump a constantly varying water pressure loads for a few years.

TD05's are a floating bearing non water cooled type. I would think there should be an oil feed thats always on top, -/+ 150 from vertical. Then a fat oil drain, always on bottom. Not sure what your third skinny line is, does it affix to the cartridge?

Yups, your BOV and comp cover / actuator annotations are correct in the second photo. That first one though? Need better picture, but looks like some scraggly looking boost lines. Cant be sure but looks the ones to the actuators? I have had em in years. U could try blowing through it.

Well the AAC/idle control valve controls engine speed (by a an amount) with a PWM modulated inlet leak. That small amount of adjustment is required to give you a stable idle even though there is load appearing and dissapearing. A/C, h.beams, stereo etc etc, as well as catching the motors decel after depressing the clutch. AFAIC, if you don't use one, your idle will fluctuate with engine load at idle. That idle RPM in question will need to be set quiet high too, to prevent stalling when above said "motor decel, clutch press" occurs. Interestingly, i guess a race car wouldn't need one. Could you let us know, why your thinking you don't need one?

Be wary if ur PFC is in and tuned. I have two mates now in the last few weeks that replaced their fuel pumps, which screwed their tune (as it was tuned on the old. sick, sagging fuel pump pressure) Be wary of that.

Silky

Threads r 4 e v a

Iv heard of a handful of cars making that power with stock unopened motors; stock RB25 cams. 270 are pretty big man, you will loose some street'ability.

I think i see what your getting at. I hear many a pro and home tuner say RB's are especially sensitive to knock. I take this to mean the IGN numbers needed for peak tourqe are quiet lose to det levels. Often why a car comes back from an inexperienced tuner who used the dyno only, and didn't compensate for real street load = det on the next 40 degree day with 2 passengers. sall i got ha

Fit the 30 buck turbotech... Fit it in the cabin if you really need to tweak the boost a lot. Cheap as bruv